T-Jay

Hi Tristan and welcome to the white zone. A thread about this armor has recently been started - see here and have fun...

That depends on the type of counter. The reset button in a real working counter can be disabled by blocking its movement. But on this resin counter here it looks like the button might just get glued in. John will surely tell us...

You had asked for instructions on how to shape and polish that Plexiglas window. This is how Steve (gazmosis) did it: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26430-doopy-buildreal-sterling-folding-stock/page-3 Do you plan to glue the reset button into the counter?

No close up pictures from the power cylinders and the Hengstler counter - everybody who is familiar with E-11 knows these details are important. But they are missing. Must be a reason for it...

Depending on the head size/shape it might be useful to vary with the padding from thick, to medium or thin. My TM bucket had the foam star padding. It lifted the helmet too far away from my shoulders, so I used a much thinner foam. Variations in foam placement (towards front or rear) can affect the position of the helmet on your head. Hope this helped...

Steve and Vern, I am very sorry to hear such bad news from you both. Can only imagine how it felt to "loose" this event, you waited for so long. Might just be a little consolation, but on youtube there are 4 videos with livestreams from each of those four days (a lot of hours in total). I was quite happy about that, as I had no chance to visit C7. Maybe this compensates your situation a bit...

Nice work, Ruben. The weathering on that scope indeed looks so real! Maybe you can add a small ring (of plastic or green stuff) to the front lense, to simulate the smaller 10mm lense from the original scope. But even if you don't do this, it will still look like the real thing

Hey John, nice to see your latest progress. Just one question: did you use countersunk screws for the folding stock hinge? The angle in that photo doesn't answer that, so I assumed that must have been the reason for leaving resin in the close surrounding area.

Nope, these are incorrect. If you look very closely, you can spot a long seam on top of the boot. It's hardly visible on this photo, but better on the bigger picture in the online offer... Sorry, but I think these boots will cause some problems...

Hey Ruben, thanks for the kudos. Nice to see you've separated your work on the blaster and started this thread for it. Keep the pictures coming. Seems like we are going to see some fancy mods...

Hey John, its been a while Latest progress looks good. Keep the pictures comming...

Hi Bob, to me, this site seems to be outdated as it states Copyright © 2006 and even Copyright © 2002 at the bottom. Also the total membership is given with 951 persons. I think you are better up with this one here, the FISD. Just go to -> Weapons Locker -> BlasTech E11 and select your favorite sub section. Start your build thread and you will always have people online here to answer your questions. Hope that helped a bit...

Would really appreciate some sharp pictures of the new blaster - especially the "empty" side which is held towards the body. And a close-up of the T-track section would be great...

Has been shown in the live stream. Appears to be some kind of magnetic connection. Head has some delay in movement.

Still confused by the mirrored blaster. No more Sterling conversions for this one, as the magazine well needs to be on the other side.

Gazmosis once commented my thread and called me an "overachiever". Looking at your build, I want to forward this recognition to somebody, who really deserves it much more.

That's gonna get an interesting one... If you need some small add-on parts, let me know. Following...

Exactly what I thought, too Still unsure...

There is already a thread for this being launched here.

Glad if it helped a bit, Ben Don't hesitate to ask additional questions. The FISD is always willing to help and no matter what time zone you live in, there are always people online here...

Hi Benjamin, additionally to what you've stated above, I would suggest the following: - ears should not overlap the rubber trim - maybe you can also trim the ears to become a bit thinner - you will need a neckseal, 2 drop boxes at the belt, O2 canister at the back (aka thermal detonator) and possibly a holster - shoulder straps placement doesn't look identical on both sides (at the front view picture) - can you attach the hand guards directly to the glove without using the straps there? - make abb buttons bigger (just add paint to the outer raises) - cover stripes on both forearms and biceps are a few mm too long - tighten the strapping to bring all armor parts closer to the body - add a strap between the cod piece and the butt plate - try to reduce the overlap from the upper back plate to the kidney plate - return edges on the sniper knee plate looks a bit thick (just to me) - for symetry you should copy the cut outs from the rear of your left knee to the right leg, too Okay, that sounds like demoralizing criticism, but I'm just trying to help by answering your questions. The armor parts are looking good and you can improve the appearance of your whole trooper a lot and make it even better. Sorry again, if my reply discouraged you. It wasn't meant to do so.

Would it be possible to add something like an "automatic reply message" on PMs? (like the "out of office assistant" in Outlook) This came in my mind when Gazmosis recently started a thread to inform us, he won't be available for a few days and another thread to let us know, he is back again. Would be very useful - especially for people with sales-threads, because all they can do at the moment is to edit the "What's on your mind?" subject in the profile. But only a few members might notice that. The majority will keep wondering, why their PMs aren't answered. Just an idea...

Thanks to everybody for participating on the poll so far. Would be very happy about some additional opinions to get an even more representative result. Also, the 3 stated options are not meant to be the only ones. Please feel free to share additional ways to simulate the lenses and I will integrate these into the poll.

Unbelievable and outstanding as always! This is really awesome!

@ Aaron (usaeatt2) and Derrek (Dday): Thanks for your comments, guys . The reason for this poll is not just finding the best lens (cause we know that's the HQO). The actual question is: what do the people want to be added into the sets? As the HQO will cause the highest costs of all three options, I wasn't sure if the majority would go for that. However, it seems like you are right as the HQO is currently the most voted. Will leave the poll open, so everything is possible... Good point, Scott. That will only work with a drilled (or hollowed) scope. The following pictures show how it looked in my build (please ignore what you see in the counter window has been improved meanwhile ) By the way: The front lens in the last picture is 12mm (2mm too big) and here you can perfectly see, it rests not where the original lens sits. Should be a bit deeper inside.