T-Jay

oh dear, that sounds complictated. sorry to hear. okay, for the moment i will stop to post any new content until this has been fixed. is there any other thread communicating the issues after the server move, or should we stick on this one here to stay updated?

few minutes ago, every word i typed started with capitol letters (no matter what i typed). now all letters are standard - even a word at the beginning of a sentence has the standard letter instead of the capitol letter. existing postings with special keyboard charcters like ' or " and - or ... are displayed incorrect now. can this be auto-fixed, or do we have to re-type everything we once wrote? and if you quote my text, this is shown in the light-grey text box, while your text (when i quote it) looks standard in my comment (see your lines above).

actually your above lines got quoted, but at the moment it is not displayed that way. hm, the issue with the capitol letters in every single word disappeared during the last few minutes. now every letter is small (after clicking on post). please don't get my message wrong, i fully appreciate what has been done during the last days. i am just wondering about the whitelisting of member groups: does that mean i have to become a 501st member to get my content displayed correctly? can't imagine that. and the problem i described above affects many (if not all) of the exisiting threads on the fisd. if there is still work ongoing in the background and you want us to wait with new postings, please let us know. i have a lot to post and can not proceed due to the above stated problems. do i just have to wait, or is there anything else i can do?

just tried to add another chapter to the fisd e-11 blaster reference and this feature even makes capitol letters in every single word! also posting pictures and links didn't work anymore... and older threads with special keyboard characters (like: " - ' ... ) are displayed incorrectly. or is that just me?

Thanks very much for this input, Germain. Will integrate this as soon as we finished our work on the current updates.

Maybe the mold from DoopyDoo's got tired meanwhile. Not sure. However, there are 2 ways to carefully "sharpen" the edges on the front muzzle again: 1 - Drill into the center hole by using a drill bit, that is just a little bit bigger than the current hole. You can do the same on the hex screws. 2 - Sand down a tiny little bit of the "face" on the front muzzle itself. This will result in getting sharper details there, but don't remove too much resin...

Placement looks good. As long as the scope's rear foot is above the hinge from the folding stock, it should be okay...

Hi Chris, thanks for this info and your link. We are always happy to improve the content and raise the accuracy of this reference. The measurements in our diagram were taken with digital calipers from real counters and do match with the available information in the technical specification sheet from Hengstler. Maybe you got some slightly different values, because of the way and technique these have been taken. In some of your photos I noticed surprisingly soft corners on the cover, which could also have caused this. And for all values around the reset button you have to bear in mind, these are the dimensions of the hole in the cover - not of the reset button itself, which is of course slightly smaller. However, if there is a specific measurement which you feel is off, please let us know, so we can check. And thanks again for highlighting this. Comments like yours will help making this reference better as time goes by and that truly is why I "liked" your posting.

LOL. Thanks very much, Scott Not sure if Bill would want to wait a few more weeks before finally starting on this...?!? Considering the time to get through my current waiting list and shipping time to the US, might mean to wait until end of August or early September... @ Bill (DroidHunter): However, if you want me to put you on the waiting list, just send me a PM If not, I fully understand because for many of us it's hard to restrain themselves when it comes to start building.

Wow Mike, how did you manage to get such sharp edges/corners into this? Electric drill and rotary tool don't seem to be enough for this nice result.

In my opinion 1 to 8 do look quite real and 9 to 11 appear very futuristic. But all of them look good. I think it only comes down to personal preferences of the individual builder... Thanks for sharing this nice collection / overview.

Thanks for the feedback, Joe You'll find the "green stuff" when searching for Kneadatite Blue/Yellow Epoxy Putty or just click here. Show us how you repaired the scratch in the desk with green stuff Best glue for resin to resin connections is CA glue (is included in your completion set)

Some statistics - in case anybody cares - 5 persons - 6 months (started 12th of January 2015) - 31 chapters - 292 pictures - 430 emails - and countless hours of spare time

Hey Joe, off to a great start. When your completion set arrives, you'll be able to fix that hole with the green stuff. No big issue.

Is the bayonet lug missing?

Very cool foot pedal, exactly what I had in mind. Wow, a huge build progress for one update Hard to say on the photos with the wet paint, but it looks like you've weathered the T-tracks with silver. These should be flat black, as the originals were plastic parts. Any plans to give that inner bolt a dirty washing? Looks very shiny at the moment.

Yep, that front MUZZLE in the picture above is fine. My earlier comment was regarding the front SIGHT BLOCK

Hey Josh, nice to see you've started a build thread. Good choice with that magazine from Steve. Love them. Can you show a picture of that foot pedal? Sounds very cool... Yeah, you should definitely wear some respiratory protection while sanding resin parts.

Absolutely correct. The rear foot of the scope is located above the folding stock hinge.

Huge build progress, Markus Hope you did not yet glue that front sight block?! On this picture it is installed the wrong way. Please don't get me wrong. Just trying to help you get the maximum out of this kit. Keep your good work up - and the photos coming...

Yep, I agree with David - and wouldn't wonder about this, as almost the whole Sterling design got mirrored for this blaster.

Markus, your bayonet lug currently is mounted the wrong way. Just turn it around Derrek added 2 long silver screws with the domed heads for the folding stock hinge. Just cut them to size - they don't need to go into the receiver. On the rear sight (you call it scope holder) use the short silver countersunk screw and place the nut inside the receiver tube. The end cap locking clip (in your last picture) needs a flat surface to be properly glued onto the receiver. Otherwise it will break off. Hope this helps

This looks so familiar to me, just right now Nice idea with that underwater picture

Checked my metal power cylinders from Andy (PlayfulWolfcub) and it looks like 25mm is the total lenght, which is why the aluminum parts in my completion sets are 23mm (because you have to add the "end caps" from green stuff). Hope this helps

That looks good. Unfortunately you had to do it the hard way, but it paid off. Won't be noticed after painting...