SorenM

Inital weathering done, touch ups tomorrow when I have the daylight... I am happy that I did it, another tweak towards realism, and only a couple more hours work, and I think it looks better than before....;-)

Been pondering most of the day, as to how to make this E-11 even more realistic looking. I decided that I wanted to be able to see through the holes in the folding stock, but also be able to see the bar that extends out to form the butt of the weapon. I am really glad that I assembled the folding stock just with screws and a pin in the front Like this: This is how the new tweak looks: Drilled out the holes ( except the first one as this is where the two parts of the folding stock merges), and ground out the reverse to make room for a new "bar" The bar (from an old coathanger, it is the exact same width as the casting of the bar):-)... The bar, and the empty space around it is clearly visible: New paint and weathering on the stock etc. as well as filling, sand, paint and weather the attachment screws.

Hi David, looking really goooood!:-) How did you fix the D-ring? I see that the spring turned out good:-).. Brass screws..remember that the ones on the scope are actually not brass:-)... Did you make the trigger work?:-) Is that the "Jawa to be" that I see on the shadow:-).....

Nope!, no, nein, not, njet, iee....:-)..those are called Mariachi boots.....try and take a look at the CRL,s or at the boots in this thread...they have to look like those.......link to CRL is here:http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt

Cheers:-), :-).. Not quite finished..it needs some more pimping....have been having some crazy ideas run through my head today......lets see if they pan out:-)

Yeah I understood on what you said, and what everybody else told me, that TM is among, if not the best out there, so that is why I chose him. The fact that Paul really comes across as a great guy, that is just a real bonus.I am looking forward to posting shots in September.(hoping on three weeks (ish) from now...woohhoo:-).... Feel like a kid the days before Christmas:-)

Okay you asked for details..remember that for initial entrance into the 501st. No weapon is needed but, a Hasbro conversion is good enough, and the one you are referring to here, eventhough it has numerous inaccuracies is good enough as it is...I still suggest that you try and make your own comparisons, between this one and for instance Simpixels or mine, so that you will see the differences yourself...:-). Here goes: Screws on the folding stock attachment needs filling, powercells too long, nuts on powercells too large, as Ales says muzzle details are mirrored, and no visible ventholes under the T-tracks, powercell wires too thick, attaches in the wrong place on the powercells, and are the wrong colour, front part of scope should be smooth not serrated, rear attachment socket on scope too large, decal in scope incorrect, "thingy on magazine side is missing, rear sight lacks serration on the rear part, trigger is wrong shape, front sight is massive should be open with more detail, magazine end should not have a screw but a "button", and it should be off center, and the magazine bottom have cutoff edges, Hengstler counter should have clear glass window and visible brass screws, trigger guard a little out of shape, spring has too few coils.....but like I said in the beginning..it is good enough as is for trooping...... This is copied from the CRL " Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present must meet the guidelines below. BlasTech E-11 For 501st approval: Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. For level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place. No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. For level three certification (if applicable): Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.".

Many thanks Brian:-)

Thanx a million Maxim :-)....I owe my weathering skills to years spent on painting miniatures:-)...

For possible changes take a look at some of the builds in the weapons section, Simpixels and Ossus are antastic builds

Aaaa did not see those pics...there are several things that can be changed..I am convinced it is ok for trooping as is, butfor accuracy there are plenty to tweak/change,.....

It is not a high res picture, but it definately looks the part, eventhough it lacks a number of small details, and the description sounds good. At that price I would say go for it!..you will not be able to build it cheaper yourself:-)..

The result of this days work: New spring (se pics on page 4.). And the magazine "thingy" ( a release button?.).. Thanks to Simpixels for the template for that. Tried making it in aluminium twice, without success, so opted for plastic, a metal tube and two nailheads instead. ..looks decent to me....:-)

Thanks a lot!...:-). Yeah he had loads of fun, just like his father....;-)

Thanks:-)

Nice one:-)....looking forward to seeing your progress and results:-)

Just meassured..the wire thickness on mine is 2.0 mm...close enough I'd say:-)

Great find:-).. And thanks for sharing....:-)

Made a new spring, using the above described method...I think it looks much better now.... Found another small, nearly invisible detail, that I enhanced with my scalpel and black paint....the 100 stamped in the rear sight

Sorry to have mislead you...Try the drycleaners, and then "flame" it. The heat will probaly result in a colour change in the metal......

Sorry to sound like a "know it all":-)... I get a little enthusiastic somtimes...:-)... I think a broomhandle will be good, but try and achieve as tight a fit as possible, it looks better, and a spring dangling around in your tube is just plain annoying to listen to ( and it looks silly as well).;-).... ....hmmm looked on the Ikea site, cannot seem to find it (maybe it's not from Ikea then)... But it looks like this I would try and get a plastic covered one, as the metal will already be oxidised, and not shiny like the wire coathangers you get at the drycleaners.

Hi Derrek:-)Really good to meet you too:-) Yeah I figured it was you, when I saw your profile and the DVH kit....:-).. But didn't want to be too "pushy"..:-)... It was a fantastic event. I will go as support today for the NG, and I have ordered my armour (fully assembled) from Paul....hoping it will be finished early september....:-)...

I just returned from my "workshop", and used one of the coathangers I have, from Ikea ( the one covered with green plastic, use that colour because that plastic will come off a lot easier than the other colours). You need to use almost all of the hanger, except the part that twists into the hooked part. Just now I used one of the legs on a colapsible beach chair like this https://www.google.dk/search?q=collapsible+beach+chair&client=safari&hl=da&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=_yAXUoCVL6OXiAL08ICoCA&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAA&biw=1024&bih=672#biv=i%7C4%3Bd%7CZbn52v10Wc852M%3A It has to be around 15 -16mm i diameter, as the hanger will add the rest, ending up at around 20-21 mm. Wrap it tight, having the coils almost touch eachother, just do it by hand, it is not that hard. Drill a little hole in the tube you wrap the wire around, so as to keep it tight and in place. When finished stretch the spring a little to add enough distance for the coil to fill the entire lenght of the barrel.....ohhhh just thought..your build is a tube build...you need to meassure the inner diameter and then deduct 4-5 mm, that will be the diameter for the thing to wrap the wire around....make any sense?:-).. All the rest still applies to your build...:-)

Thanks David...that is the coathanger spring you see in the pics.....so go for that, it looks very accurate.....especially if you really take your time and wrap it carfully...I will try that again..

I bent an old coathanger around a piece of tubemetal....it works fine, jusr remember to use a tube that is somewhat smaller in diameter, and wrap the coils very tight....but I literally just now aquired a discarded spring from a 84mm Carl Gustav recoilles rifle, it looks more uniform in the coils, but has too many of them.....it will used until something perfect comes along...