tkrestonva

And this is why we do so love that miracle of adhesive engineering that is E6000. No matter how many times you think you've screwed up, there is always the option of a redo. Not so with Plastic Weld, two-part epoxy, ABS cement, or CA glue. With those, mistake or not once it's done - so are you. No worries here. Carefully peel off the cover strip by getting something thin under it (for example, a flathead screwdriver) and slowly prying it up. Next, remove the E6000 residue. I personally recommend GooGone followed by hot soapy water. Dry the pieces with a towel, and you're back to the starting line with no damage done. Before you make a second attempt, pick up a set of rare earth magnets. You can find them at general online retailers like Amazon, at online specialty stores like Applied Magnetics and K&J Magnetics, and I'm even told that Ace Hardware sells them in-store. I'd say get four dozen (48), but the more you buy the faster you can work. For example, you'll need a minimum of 12 on each forearm (3 pairs on each side equally spaced between the clamps on either end) to keep the cover strips in place while the E6000 cures. More will give you more holddown points and/or a more secure hold (if you stack them the overall pull force increases). They are worth their weight in gold in holding the long seams closed on the forearms, biceps, thighs, and shins. They will also be useful in holding your snap plates in place while the glue on those dries, since there may be places on your kit that your clamps simply cannot reach. It's also a good idea to score the gluing surfaces before you apply the E6000, that way it has something to bite into. For example, I crisscrossed my gluing surfaces with a razor by making little X's down the length of the forearm and cover strip where the E6000 was to be applied. If you do this, be sure to remove any dust/debris created before applying the E6000. Any spillover can be removed after it's cured simply by rubbing it off with your thumb. Another tip is to use some of the scrap plastic you trimmed off to get the forearms to fit to make inside cover strips. It's not screen-accurate, but it will increase the strength of your joins, and once in place they will make applying the external cover strips much easier to do. Do this for the forearms, biceps, thighs, and the fronts of the shins.

Love it!

As has been recommended, shorten the straps that connect the shoulder bells to the shoulder straps. Other than that, I think you've done a fine job minimizing and balancing out the black undersuit showing. You can't help being tall and long-limbed. It is what it is, and regardless you still look great. Agreed - one of Rob's earlier versions. The non-bumpy and stickered ears are a dead giveaway.

Most start with the smaller pieces - biceps and forearms. Note that the biceps, while small, are not so easy to assemble depending on your arm size/shape and your chosen assembly method (butt-join vs overlap). The same can be said for the forearms. So before you start, be sure to review the many AM build threads with an eye toward how these two parts were assembled. And expect to spend a fair bit of time on these two parts.

Hello Leia. I have three requests/recommendations: 1. Repost your introductory information in the New Member Introductions section: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showforum=5 2. Being from Austria, I assume you speak German. We have a section for native German speakers - have a look: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showforum=57 3. Contact "Sonnenschein" - she is a very knowledgeable lady who also lives in Austria, and allow her to be your guide here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showuser=3770

15 yards (45 feet) is a sh*tt0n of elastic, and I can't see you needing nearly that much. Having said that, getting the strapping dialed in is a trial-and-error process, and if you're like most of us you'll redo the straps over and over until you find the right length for each strap - which reminds me, you'll need plenty of snaps as well. So I'd say get maybe a third to half a roll (15 ft - 23 ft). Regardless, it's better to have more than what you need on hand and avoid the hassle of running back and forth to the fabric store, than to run out at an inopportune time and have to interrupt your build to make a supply run.

I would try a few things, in this order: 1. Post a WTB thread here and at MEPD for the spare ABS strips that come with the AM kit. Also hit up your local garrison. Not everyone uses the butt-join method for these kits (although they should) but a lot of people DO use canvas belts. Hence, there should be some extra ABS strips somewhere out there waiting to be sold. 2. See if you can get some matching ABS plastic (thickness, color, and surface texture) from a plastic supplier. Downside is that even if you can find it, you may end up having to buy far more than you actually need. 3. Pick up a "for sale" sign whose color and texture matches the armor as closely as possible, and cut it up into the correct-sized strips. In fact, since you're going sandy a precise color match is of lesser importance. Dirt hides a lot.

You should definitely make the cover strips in the front wider to cover the entire raised portion. The 20mm recommended (and screen-accurate) width is great if your legs are thin enough to get there, but ultimately you make them as wide as you need to fit while still looking reasonably screen-accurate and proportional to the width of the thigh. As an example, my thigh cover strips are 30mm wide. Another option is to pull the thighs apart completely, increase the width in the back, and decrease the width in the front so that the 20mm strips you currently have fit properly. Better for the cover strips to be overly-wide in the back than in the front. E6000 is very forgiving, even after it's cured. That's one of the reasons it comes so highly recommended. Very carefully (so as not to gouge the plastic) use a flat edge to get under the cover strip, and pry it up and off. Once done, remove the E6000 residue (you can use your thumb to rub it off but I used GooGone and it seems perfectly safe to me - others may recommend a different solvent), wash the area with hot water and dishwashing soap to clean it, and you're good as new.

Will do. Thoughts and prayers for you and your family.

Happy Birthday, boss. Try to stop by more often.

For those who don't have years of experience, riveting or otherwise permanently attaching the belt directly to the ab piece is an FX thing, and it's how many of the FX kits are assembled. I'm certainly not saying one should attach their belt in that manner - just providing some context.

I've heard that MonCal also makes a top-notch snowie kit. I've also heard the wait can be extended, but not nearly as bad as Dan Laws.

A group of drunks - figures. A fellow garrison member had his helmet stolen while it was sitting on a table at a restaurant right in front of him by a drunk who's equally-drunken buddies apparently put him up to it. The guy was out the door before anyone realized what had happened - or that the helmet wasn't coming back. Local authorities eventually caught up with the guy, who after he got caught tried to pass it off as a bunch of guys having a few laughs. What wasn't so funny (aside from the incident itself) is that the bucket came back trashed. We ended up taking up a collection in the garrison and getting him a new helmet kit. Non-costumed handlers are a trooper's best friend. The larger, more alert, and generally more assertive they are - the better.

I agree that Novus is the best solution for taking out scuffs. Novus #2, to be exact. I can't speak to the other solvents. However, I've used GooGone on a handful of occasions where I've had to pull apart pieces that have been E6000'd together, and it worked like a charm in getting rid of the residue. It does leave an oily film, but that can be washed off with soap and hot water. Good as new and no visible damage, even after many months and many troops. If for some reason you have thick, gooey gunk on your armor I suspect it would work just as well. If you must remove the scuffs - go with Novus and a clean rag. But better to leave them - it adds character.

I would think the same. If you don't have an RS or a 1.5mm TM - kits that are made of a relatively flexible plastic that can take the added stress on the return edges the original strapping system creates - then I would go with the snap/strap method, or what TM calls "practical strapping".

Agreed - excellent job. I especially like the way you got the legs nice and tight.

I've heard of TX builders who bought a standard set of white TK boots and had them dyed black. You may be able to do the same, except red of course.

Yes - pretty much whatever works for you. As for the sniper plate - best to have a look at the archive photos: http://www.whitearmor.net/fisd/Tikipedia:LFL_Caleb:ReferenceGallery

"Barely get your hand through the wrist opening" is actually what you are looking for in terms of properly sizing the forearm. As long as you *can* get your hand in/out, it's all good. Taper the forearms so that they follow the natural shape of your forearm, and definitely glue both sides shut unless you absolutely have no other choice - it's more accurate and simply looks cleaner and more streamlined. Aside from the returns at the ankles and wrists (which of course should be completely gone), it's all up to you. Take a look at the screen grabs, behind the scenes photos, and archive photos. The returns were all over the place. So do what best works for you in terms of fit, comfort, and appearance.

You may not want to get *too* big if you want to be able to fit in your ATA without the use of shims. Take for example, the biceps. I believe (and someone else can confirm or refute this) that they will accept up to a maximum of about 14" flexed before requiring shims. Not that you should necessarily limit yourself based on the maximum allowable size for your ATA kit, but it's something to consider. By today's standards, the actors that portrayed stormtroopers back in the 70s were short, skinny blokes.

You mean advice that isn't "wait until you've reached your body goals", correct? I suppose you could leave extra room in the arms and legs where you expect to pack on mass, and make the belly extra snug where you expect to lose inches. Definitely use E6000 as your only adhesive, that way if you guess wrong you could (with a little work) pull the pieces apart and resize them. BTW, I've been following your workout adventures on FB. Kudos for you, sir.

That's because the jedirobe/stormtroopershop kit is a recast of FX - a flimsy, styrene recast at that. How do I know? I saw one up close this weekend and having owned an FX kit in the past it was quite obvious. Before you buy a replacement chest piece, give this a shot: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3938

Good thing I happen to be on right now when I should be working ... The FRS was a mixed bag, and it was basically my attempt to replicate the UKG's TrooperComm system but using commonly available and easy to install/configure hardware. On the one hand, being able to communicate remotely with home base, other troopers, and even my wife while me and my team are out on "patrol" is awesome. On the other hand, you have to choose your assigned frequency very carefully in order to find a clear channel, as the FRS bands are very popular with families, building maintenance personnnel, etc. Also, the way I did it (earbud with the line running to my backplate and a mic/thumbswitch under my chestplate) might not work for everyone, but is easily replicable for any group of troopers who want to try it out. As far as brand goes, I don't have the radios in front of me but I picked up the least expensive I could find at Radio Shack. Motorola - something. They were around $20 each, with the earbuds being about $15 each. Thing is, low cost = low power, so they have somewhat limited range in a real-life environment (the max range claims on the box I believe apply to an unobstructed view and radio-quiet environment). Had I gone with more expensive radios I may have gotten improved performance. I haven't pursued the magnetic switch as the system I rigged up seemed to work (for me), but I may still do so at some point. I've made minor tweaks since I last updated this thread (removed the return edges from the wrist and ankles, tapered the wrists, etc.) so I should probably post some updates.

I believe Albin Johnson (501st founder) still has his Marco. He had a very old stormtrooper costume on display at C5 in the 501st room, the description saying it was his original costume from 1997. I think it was a Marco. Maybe there are photos of it on the internet somewhere.