Ditch

Also the frown is incorrect. Along with the ear caps.

Hey John. Remember, it's easier to cut it then to grow it. Just had to remind you again.

Do the conversion for basic approval, if you plan on trooping alot. Pick up a Hyperfirm, yes they cost a bit more. But it will save you in the long run. But if you are going for Centurion on the first try, get the full resin kit from Doopy's or another maker.

Check out IComm from Jim Sauter. http://www.voicebooster.com/icomm-imperial-communication-system.html

Research, Research, Research. You can't do enough. Just cause you got a kit from a vetted manufacturer, doesn't mean you will get approved.

Good news letter. The bowling troop was a fun, no hassle good time. We had Wokiee's, R2 and a plethora of TK's, plus Baby Fette.

I just went to Joanne and asked for a small sample of speaker cloth and they gave it to me for free. No need to go spend money on something when you can get it for free.

I also use Maguires. To help speed up the process, I use a sponge buffing ball that you can put into a cordless drill. Then afterwards, I shine it up with some Turtle wax spray. The carnuba wax type.

I have an AP kit as well. This is how they are meant to look. It is more screen accurate. ------------

There is a great resource in the upper right hand corner of the web page that can help you search and locate all the answers to your questions for dimensions and all other information you may require.

This is the stuff you should have gotten. --------

I would guesstimate to say any where from 80-150 hours. Depends on how much work you need to do and how meticulous (anal) you are. I took about 95 hours. I got my AP kit in the middle of June and received my 501st # at the end of July. Keep in mind this is assuming you have most of the materials/tools required when you start. On a side note, if you use CA glue you could probably manage on the faster side. E-6000 takes 18-24 house to cure before moving on. Personally I would recommend E-6000 if this is your first build. Only for the reason it takes a while to set and you can always pull the joints apart down the road.

I like how the ab button plates is part of the cast.

leave the entire inside white. for both.

Where is the thermal detonator? And isn't the holster on the wrong side for the style?

My suggestion would to find a person in your local garrison who is a TK and buy them a few beers and hopefully they are willing to help you get started. Once they set you in the right direction, it gets alot easier to glue, cut and make holes in the ABS. I got lucky and the first accepted Centurion in the US lives right down the road from me so it was a slam dunk once I got some guidance from him.

I used velcro on all the padding so I can take them out and clean/replace them after they get all nasty from sweat.

Can I recommend using the search bar in the upper right hand corner of the web site?

My AP looks the same. I had one hell of a time till I just said screw it and attached it.

+1

Do it your self. How are you going to know how to fix something if you have a malfunction. Plus you wont have the proper tools to repair.

Burn it or fold it and sew it.

Sorry Scott that I had to give you the bad news today. Like I told you at the armor party, I made the same mistake when I first assembled my AP kit, and was told to correct it by a Centurion. It's not the end of the world because you used E6000. Just take your time pulling them apart and clean off all the old gunk and line them up from the front tops. Everything will be ok. Here are a couple of pics of my Right thigh I showed him how they need to line up. Of course I've trooped a bit so they have been adjusted a few times.

I used the Dritz heavy duty sap pliers. ---------

Like Dizzy said, use E6000 this go around. Once you get your build the way you like it you can always reglue it with ABS/CA glue.