Echo

TK-19191 from the Southern California Garrison requesting 501st access. Thanks. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=15596

Empire strikes back hand plates

I first contacted them through the email on their website: http://www.rspropmasters.com/

Nope. They just do the ANH Stunt TK because its derived from an original screen suit.

Hi, I bought an RS kit in January and highly recommend them. If its only been a week, don't sweat it. They'll contact you. As others have said they can get swamped. They do more than TK's as well as events and such. Their Facebook page is a good place to see what might be keeping them busy. Everyone here knows how easy it is to feel anxious waiting when first getting into it. But the waiting for something doesn't seem to stop. First it's getting info from armor makers then its waiting for the armor.. heh patience is key. Even waiting 24hrs for E-6000 to dry is sometimes tough.. Currently I'm anxiously waiting for my TK-ID to be approved.. It never stops haha

Flat on the mic tips. (At least for ANH, don't think it's different for ESB )

Great job fellow EPiCureans! Wish I could have attended.

Not sure if anyone else is having issues, but since the update to the forums on Sunday, my tapatalk 2 app on my iPhone won't show the content of threads. I can browse the list and see the titles, but when I go to read the thread I get. 'Oops network error. Refresh to retry' I tried shutting the app down but no difference. I think it's an issue with the app though. I also have tapatalk 1 and it works fine.

Congrats

I got home really late last night and didn't have a chance to go through my images. But here are some of the left shin from my build. I hope it helps until I can get images of the right one to help you sort out which piece is which.. These were the two that had the 'L' sticker on them. You can still see them inside. I left them there. When you look at the left shin from the front, you will notice that the top of the inner plate is higher than the outer part. I am referring to the ridge detail. The angle of it is less on the inside than the outside. On the right shin, the angle of the ridge is equal. I was confused too when assembling them. The RS shins do not match from the right to the left. Left Greave_Page_1 by Echo Rogue, on Flickr Left Greave_Page_2 by Echo Rogue, on Flickr Left Greave_Page_3 by Echo Rogue, on Flickr Left Greave_Page_4 by Echo Rogue, on Flickr

I can, but won't be home until tomorrow night. If someone hasn't posted some until then, I'll put some up. I've taken dozens of photos of each piece before and after assembly.

Congrats

Looks good. The cover strips should have the end corners cut with a slight chamfer. Other than that, keep it up

What options for electronic sound and lights are there for E-11s? I'm looking to integrate either into a Doopy Doo's full resin kit or DVH's kit. Anyone know if the Hasbro Captain Rex blaster sound is similar to their 'stormtrooper' one?

Congrats!

The tube stripes are pretty long. Almost look double the length they should be. Did you measure from the templates floating around here? Or just guess at it?

There are many details different between each of the armors, some minor visually some very different. For instance RotJ armor is very different on almost all of the suit. The best way to learn how they differ is to read the various threads on the forums. You'll begin to get it after a while. Side note: RS propmasters only sell ANH Stunt armor because the original that is taken from was that kind.

Here's the Dremel bit I used.

Very cool. Looking forward to your work.

From my experience as a newbie, (just finished my build), I used a Dremel with a cylindrical sanding bit for edges I needed to trim 1/4inch or less, (can post bit type if necessary). You do need a pretty steady hand and it is risky. Anything larger, I used the lexan curved scissors. The are very nice a accurate. Often all I would need was to lightly sand the edge after I cut it. For coverstrips, a utility knife to score 3-4 times, then break. Oh & my suit is PVC. Not sure if ABS would be much different.

Oh I know this was talked about in other threads, but just looking at the original helmet posted above, the blue on the stripes looks kind of on the dark side like the Humbrol Midnight Blue (Testors #1511) instead of the recently conceived Humbrol French Blue (Testors #2715).. Is that just due to it being a photo and in reality it was lighter?

Excellent Vern, just what I was looking for... Painting tonight and tomorrow. That's the last to be done for my suit. Hopefully submitting photo's for member approval on Sunday

Hi, Various threads and tutorials show that either the Humbrol No.5 or the Testors #1138 are the best color grey for the helmet. However I read in a recent thread that some feel the Testors gray is closer to the original color rather than the Humbrol because of a shift in the color of the Humbrol paint. I know photo's aren't a good way to evaluate due to how camera's shift colors, but the image below does show there is a difference between the two. Here's a test: Thoughts and opinions on which is best?

Testing the black paints and practicing stripes. I think I like the semi gloss for the Vocorder too. Using the tip about painting white on the stripes first. Thanks again for that tip! Flat Black on the Mic Tips:

Practicing a little painting. One question, I read in other threads that many feel the Testors gray is closer to the original color rather than the Humbrol because of a shift in the color of the Humbrol paint. Here's a test: Thoughts and opinions on which is best?