mr0072003

Hey guys, just received my pre-order soft goods from the Classic trooper pre-order back at Star Wars celebration and all I got was the gloves and body suit. Was there not a neck seal, holster and belt to come with it? I checked my order status on the site and it state my order was full filed. Anyone else have this issue with their pre-order? Pete

I just realized that I do no have 501st status here anymore. I have updated my status with the legion and back to active status. Pleas enable me for 501st status here - TX - 71379 http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=15439 Thanks team!

this makes me want to repaint mine! Nice work!

Well Said Camp!

Dang it... I have to have one now!

I bought this Case as well from Home Depot.. Never thought of this, but this is a great idea. At some point I will do this, I may go with Grey though... But we will see.

Well I pulled the trigger yesterday and pre-orders the kit. For the price its just hard not to take it up. I have already made and have an approved Shadow Trooper Armor (FX) with Akryl Lid from the Spec Ops forums, and if I can get that kit approvable, I am sure this will be on the same level if not better. Also have experience already on the FX Shadow Trooper, the build kit is a perfect heaven sent option for me. I already have Icomm, Speaker, nice Leather holster, and E-11 blaster from my shadow trooper that this will be an easy and cheap TK to make. So excited!

This is a great thread, love hearing all the info. Thanks for all this info, you really are providing R&D info and I am sure Anovos is reading this thread. Can no wait till these issues are worked out, and ready for the masses.

where can you download or find the chatter.. I finally was able to remember my 501st forums password so i am there digging around. pops nevermind I found it. I have the link. Not sure if i am allowed to post it. If I am let me know, and I will add here. Thanks

Wow I totally thought this would be lame... Boy was I wrong.. totally geeking out for a set up like this.

I agree on that. Thought it would work form some white TKs. Just in case you need another for next Month or any other. Yeah Tray thats how I learned about it. Changed the color on the Dash of my Mitsu EVO 8. Then I was looking at the pauldron wishiing it was black and then realized, this is the same stuff (the Spary Paint) to paint the seats on cars, it has to work on this and it turned out ok.. Thanks again everyone. Just trying to give back to a group that has given so much to me.

Hi everyone its me again. I posted this on the Spec Ops Board, but thought it could be usefull here. I know that many TKs don not wear Pauldron's but if you do, or wanted a differnt color from the on you have try this. Things you will need 1. 1 Pleather / Vinyl Pauldron 2. Painters Tape 3. Old News Paper or Paper Towels 4. Dupli Color Vinyl and Fabric Spray Paint - Gloss Black 5. Black Elmer’s Painters Pen Step 1. So you have a Pauldron that is the wrong color and need to change it up. For a TX you will need to have it black. I was fortunate enough to get a free pauldron with my AM order. It was grey and would not go with my black TX, but it was free. So first thing to do is to mask of all the parts you do not want painted. Using your painters tape and news papers/paper towels mask it off like so. Step 2. Now that it’s all taped off, we can’t start to paint. Finding an open area and using Dupli-Color Vinyl & Fabric Paint (note use this type of paint as it’s meant for this type of material and should not crack like normal spray paints will do.) I used Gloss Black, but you can use whatever color you want, but make sure it’s for Vinyl and Fabric. Lets start with a our first Coat. Don’t go to crazy just a quick spray. (note I wiped the pauldron down before painting) A few minutes later the next coat. (Don’t forget to get under the leather tabs with rivets), then a 3rd coat. and Finally the 4th coat and set to dry Step 3. Now that it’s all dried we can remove the tape and paper off and check it out. First thing that I noticed that even after taping that there was some grey showing through the edges like so. So get out your Elmer’s Paint Pen and run it down the entire seems. Press down hard so the paint can seep into the crevasses of the stitching like so. Repeat to both sides if needed. Step 4 - You’re all done - Let it dry for a day. This paint is pretty strong so let it air out if you can. Here it is on my TX Armor. Enjoy!

Holy Smokes!! My Tut made the News Letter... This is soooo Cool! I hope this helps other troopers out there, as it sure did help me; no more Shins moving.

Very Cool Bro... Its going to be fun.

Well here it is... Its 99% complete... I just need a new helemet that is coming from Akryal. Left on Monday from Poland, so my guess is I will not see until next few weeks. I want to submit these, but I doubt they will pass... The back ground is not good, and my left shin was not put on correctly so it does not match up with my thigh, and for some reason my thigh went to much to side... other than that i would like some feed back. LMK

I am willing to buy it for 2 reasons. 1. This guys Wife just passed away and he needs money. 2. He has been given the blessing by the original caster, and has openly stated it was a re-cast. With these 2 things, I would plung on it, and help a brotha out.. FISD head honchos, WDYT?

up to how many numbers can you do?

Hope that means I am on it.

Thanks everyone. So I am like OBSESSED with my Build and everything 501 right now. I have been at work for like 14 days straight working like 10 -12 hr shifts, so I just surf the 501 boards and been READING and RESEARCHING when its free around here (which the last few days it has been). I still have managed to miss things in my research and its cost me time and many trips to JoAnns for Snaps . I have been working like a mad man to get all the tweaks worked out. I want to be like "ITS Done!" but everyime I take pics I can see things. So the pics I just posted were from last night. The PICS I am about to post are from TODAY in the daylight outside for better vision. In this fitting I was trying to eliminate the back flaring out by cutting my ties from the middle of my straps (like noted in the pics above) to the back connecting more towards the back with the back plate, as well as to put more Velcro on the front portion of the straps connecting to the chest plate. I know about the shins, I just am not clamping them anough. I have more play to do so, so hopefully on my submissionpics that will be addressed. THIS was what made the differnce and now both my back and straps sit MUCH better and more flush to my armor. I want to say its done, but I still need your opinions on the sides of my CHEST and BACK plates. I think they may be flared out to much and I may need to form "Contour Them more to my body or CUT them shorter. Am I experienceing the first AM Chest is not totally accurate moment?

Thanks White NIght. Yea the White in the muzzle is me just being to scared to get in there andaccidentlly paint the Red Bulb. I covered it with tape, when painting (something I should have mentioned in the TUT), but it was too much and not all the black got in there. I may fix later. as for the Chamber, I new there was a bit more to detail. I think I will look at others guns while trooping and update from there. BUT I really like the idea of using plastic to give it a shine effect. The Site. has part of the Screw post holding the gun together and if I did file off, would have took a little more work to stay together. (im Lazy) For now I will live with it. Thanks for the compliments. just trying to give back, and Altogh I may never qualify as a contributier as I am not a TK (im going TX) I still think its something i should share with the group that has shared back soo much.

OK I so I have test fitted once more since the pictures below so fitment is even better, but these pics are better than those as far as quality. I have since then been able to fix many problems. My back issue was because I was tieng down the wrong part of the shoulder srtaps. This Pics shows my side flaring out now. I think it needs to be formed better, with a heat Gun, but not sure. What do you guys think? An angle shot of my Belt (Formed with blowdryer to fit better) I also was able to cut the edges as well. Here you can see that I have tied down the wrong area of the shoulder straps. ( Another test fit with these moved back proved to fix my problem with flaring) You can see all my suspender system exposed on the side. I was trying a differnt way to put them on, and obvious FAIL! Close up of my AB and Chest peice. Are the AB Buttons good to go and correct in Size and color? Also is the chest peice to low?I am short so I was not sure how much should show? Biceps have been lowered down as suggested. Some Front Thigh Action ONe of things that I noticed is that I may need a better neck Seal THe Cloth that runs down is not long enoug in the back and leaves much to be exposed. Close up of my Bells and Biceps Back of the thighs... IM thinkning I need to form my Butt peice more into my crotch. Looks like I took a Dump or something. What do you think? Forarms and Hand Plates witih Gloves. Here is a side view of my TD, and Holster placment. I am almost sure that I may have placed the hOlster to far back and should have been right nect to the ABS part of the Belt. And the worst pic, the back. YOu can see straps, my TD is not on correclty and becuase my straps started to fall to the side, by rear kidny peice is hanging incorrectly exposing me. ... sigh. but here it is And YES the AM Bucket is going and getting replaced with a AT3 Helemt from Poland.

Is there an official list? Can I be put on it?

Part 5 - Detailing Metal chamber Things you will need 1 - Silver Elmers Paint Pen (Fine gauge) 2 - Painters Tape So this will be the last detail, to add. We need to paint the Chamber Silver. As its black right now. So this will be the last detail, to add. We need to paint the Chamber Silver. As its black right now. Step 1 - Tape of the chamber with Painters Tape as we do not want to get paint all over the place and keep our lines straight Now begin to paint with the pen like so Let the paint Dry and remove the tape and you should end up like this. Thats it your done. Thats it Folks your Done. Hope this helps out other out there.

Part 4 - Doopy Doos KIT ADD ON - Painting Things you will need 1 - Doopy Doos Kit 2 - E-6000 Glue 3 - Primer Grey, Silver (optional), Bronze (optional). Black (Flat or Semi Gloss) Its your preference for the shade of black or check with your Garrison for specifics. 4 - String 5- Dremel with Cutting Bit/ Grinding Tool/Grinding BIT 6 - Rubber Bands / Painters Tape 7- 14 Gauge Black Wire 8 - Crazy Glue Step 1 - OK now that your Gun is ready for the DOOPY DOOS kit, There is one optional thing you can do. One of things I read in my research on the Doopys Hasbro build, as the sounds can get drowned out because the Counter covers some of the holes that allow the sounds from the outside to come out. So I thought this was something I could to take a swing at. Sadly I did not take more pictures, but you can see what I did. What I did was to dril out holes near the speaker with a Dremel cutting bit. These were solidly filled in. WIth them drilled out, it's will allow for better and louder blaster sounds. I used a file to clean up the holes I made to even out the edges. (sorry no pics of that but later pics will show this) Step 2 - Now it's time to get your Doopys Kit checked out and ready for glueing. Something that I did not see in other builds was that I had lots of return edges left on my fins. I broke some of extra peices off, but had to use a Dremel with Grinder bit to clean it up. Next was to begin useing your E-6000 glue and begin to glue the peices together. It's pretty Self explanatory, but check out some other build threads (many out there) that go through that process. For now you will have to settle for pictures of my Doopys kit all glued together using Painters tape to hold certain parts down while the glue Hardened. One of things I noticed was that the under sling was not aligning correctly. I tried to dremel out some of the screw post on the bottom of the barrel and it seemed to work. But its not perfect. With everything all glued together and taped up, let it settle over night. Please be careful that your tape/Rubber Bands do not shift any of your parts. I had not noticed this and one of my fines was slightly shifted because the rubber band had shifted it up . I decided to leave it as is, but do it right the first time and you shall be fine. Step 3 - Now that the Doopys Kit is glued on, and any fixes or shift in parts are fixed (if any), now we can begin to start to Paint. First find a good area to paint that is free flowing with air. Also lets get some string and tie it up to something so that you can paint it nicely. Once you do this you can start with a coat or 2 of the Grey Primer. Don't go to heavy, as you do not want to lose details on your gun. You still have more layers of paint to go. Next was to add a coat of Silver. This is an option as many like to have a weathered look and having a coat a silver underneath the black (which we have not painted yet) and then you can later lightly sand it to give it the weathered look. NOw that the silver is added. You can add some Bronze to only your Scope part. I did do this part, but was not happy with it, and did not even take a pic. Again this is an options if you want to sand down to give it a weahtered look and want to expose a little of the Bronze to give it an authentic look. Once you are done with all the painting of the Silver and Bronze, we can now begin to add the Black paint. Ok so here is where I got a little confused. I started with a FLAT Black, using Primer Flat Black Spray Paint OK So I decided to go with the Semi Gloss paint, as my wife put it "It will look dumb if your Gun is Dull while you are shiny Black." So you know the Saying "Happy Wife = Happy Life". Sadly I had painted first with flat black and then moved to the Smei Gloss. I have no pictures of that process. I have pics of the gun painted, but not from the jump, but you get the point. Step 5 - Lets add the wires to our Power Cylinders. Since the only reference pics of this that was in ANH, is so small and you really dont get a good reference. So after much researching I was able to come up with what I think these wires should go. Some people call it Greebies First thing I did was to determine where to make the holes for my 14 Guage wire would fit. So after much research I wipped out my old dremel with Grinding BIT. So on the MAG Counter there are 3 like prongs that stick out. Well I dremeled out the two outer ones using a small Grinder bit. Now with the holes drilled out I was able to see of the 14guage wire would fit. It did. Note that all you need to do with the Black 14 Guage Electrical wire, is wrap it around a Pencil and it will coil around and stay that way holding its form. Repeat for the other side. Next was to drill holes on MAG portions of the Cylinders. This was where most reference pics were non existant, so again I just went for where most pics showed it went. I used each end of the cylinders on the MAG and drilled a hole at the tip like so Now with the holes drilled in both sides and wires coiled. We can add Crazy Glue to the end of the wires and stuff them in the holes.

Part 3 - Detailing and Fixing our Errors Things You will need 1 - Dremel with Cutting Blade 2 - BONDO Glazing and Spot Putty 3 - 800 - 400 Sand Paper (You can go even to 1000 to really smooth it out, I was too impatient) Step - 1 OK Next thing that had to be done was to cut off the rest of the barrel tip of the gun. Be careful here as you do not want to cut off the wires that connect to the light. Just pull the wires out of the little groves that are holding them in place and get them out of the way. Pull them out of thw way all the way back. You can use a screw Driver to remove the glue that is holding the wires in place. This is an option but it helps not put stress on the wires. Here it is after you cut it. I used my Dremel with cutting blade. Step 2 - Next thing we want to do is to BE CAREFUL with all of the Electronics of your blaster. I did a quick check of my trigger, lights and sounds just to make sure that the gun was still working and thats when my build came to a crashing halt. The gun was no longer making lights and sounds. I checked everything and after 30min of inspecting I realized that when prying my gun open earlier in the build process, the Chip board came a little loose. I noticed that early in the process and I just placed it back in its slot and moved one. Here is the Chip in the slot Well now that the gun was no longer working I looked at the board closely and reaized that the board was chiped on the corner. With out re-explaining everything I was able to get some help from the FISD boards and got one of the master minds behind the ADURINO Blaster builds from Italy to help me out. He told me to solder a wire from point a to point b. He even was nice enought to post a pics with a drawings on it. Here it is. For all the fun details here is the link to the thread on the FISD site. http://www.whitearmo...buy-replacment/ But I was able to get a wire from an cell phone charger and have a buddy of mine solder the wire to the points listed above (the blue line). And it was working again. I was just so excited to get it working again that I totally forgot to take a picture of it all fixed up. But I did exactly what I was told to do and it worked. Now I was able move on! Step 3 - Now it's time to fix all the cracking and fill in all the screw holes with some of the BONDO GLAZE and SPOT Putty . You can get the stuff at OSH Hardware or Auto Parts store. Im sure even Home Depot or LOWES has it. You will need a spreading stick ( I used a peice of ABS plastic strip) and begin to start to fill in the holes with the putty. Also dont forget to do any seems that you do not want visable anymore. You can see in the next pic where I Filled in my extra hole. I used a bit of Hot Glue in the back and let harden and used it a base for the putty to harden on to. If I had not done that the putty would have just fallen through. If your really particular about lines and stuff take your time on this part, It will take a few more coats of putty and sanding before you get a nice even look. Again I rushed it and did an ok job. Remember that Fin that cracked on us. Now use the putty and fill in the cracks. I ran my fiongers and gave it the look you see below and let it harden before I sanded it down to look even. Fill in the screw holes good. Let all that stuff harden for a day. Step 4 - Now we can sand and re-putty if we have to or want to! Starting with the 450 sand paper for any hard and thick hard part and moving QUICKLY to the 800 paper and higer for fine sanding, you want to get you parts nice and smooth. You will notice that this stuff grinds down quickly so be carefull. Here are some shoots of my sanding work. It was not the best and I could have gone more but was to excited about moving foward. So my advice "Be Patient"! You may not want to do the handles (as seen in the pic below) as it takes away from the detail of the handle. In retrospect I would have left these holes alone. Do not fill in the holes for your Battery Compartment! At this point go over your gun with Sand paper and smooth it out to your likeing as the next part will be the Doopy Doos add ons. Yippy!