mr0072003

Part 2 - This part will focus on the Detailing and prepping of your HASBRO E-11 TOY GUN too look more realistic to the actuall E-11 blaster. Things you will need. 1. Hasbro E-11 toy Gun 2. Dremel with Cutting Blade, grinder and Cutting Bit 3. Small Files 4. 400 Grit Sand Paper (or close to that) Step 1 (continued from my first post) Not that the guns is all apart, we can focus on the details of the gun. The first thing that I did was to sand off all the lettering from the gun. Keep sanding until its all gone. Step 2 Next thing to do, to add some realisim to the gun, is to dremel out the scope rail. The Hasbro version has the rail filled in. So following many others ideas, I decided this was easy enough to do (especially with it apart). So here is what I did (to both sides) Now that both sides are cut out, you will notice that cuts are pretty rough and jagged. So I got a small file kit and started to file down all the edges so it could be nice and even and smooth. Repeat to both sides. Try and put the gun together (dont screw in, just fit it) so you can see if there are any other spots that need filing. Step 3 NOw that the rail is cut out and looking good, now its time to grind off the 7th fin, as the real E-11 had only 6 fins and not 7. So to try and get it closer to the real thing and if your shooting for EIB, this is the next step. So using your dremel swap out the cutter tool with the grinder tool. And begin to grind off the fins like so. Step 4 Now that the 7th fin is grinded off, we will need to add HOLES in its place, this is how the E-11 looked like. So using a refernce pic as to where the holes should line up, I was able to print it out and tape it to the gun. Like so. I used a light to help me place it better. You can see it lines up nicely. Note that this is done to only one side of the gun. (use pic as refernce as to which side to use) I got the templates from this thread. http://www.whitearmo...er/page__st__80 and the best Build Thread out there that I saw was this one. But its a FISD HOW tow and thought I would post one specifically for us. http://www.whitearmo...her-hasbro-mod/ Once your template is in place, we can begin to start drilling. As first I made pilot holes using my dremel with a cuttng bit. (small) Next you can get the Drill Bit and begin to cut ( AS of this writting I do not know what size this bit is) I was just lucky enough to have it in my junk drawer and it was a prefect fit to the holes that were already there. When you are done it should like this. BUT without the first HOLE (closest to the barrel) its an extra hole that I should not have added. (again dont worry we will fix this in the next part) Step 5 Now that our holes are complete, lets work on the last little detail. The Trigger, this was one I was on the fence on, but it seemed to easy to pass up, especially with the gun apart. SO using some refernce pics, I was able to draw up a sketch using a pen. Then I started to cut at it with the Dremel and Cutting blad. Here is how it ended up. Used the file to clean up the edges. Thats it for part 2. Next part will be the prepping and cleaning up of any mess ups that I did.

Hi all another step by step of how I did my build of my HASBRO E-11 Doopy Doos mod as promised that I would like to add to the site. Thanks to all the other HASBRO Build threads on the FISD site as each one was helpful in differnt ways. I thought it would be nice to gather all the info from all those threads and make my own HOw to Build Thread. I will show as much as I can errors and all. Part 1 - This part will focus primarly on how to take the gun apart. Things you will need. 1. Hasbro E-11 toy Gun 2. Small Head Flat head screw Driver 3. Phillips Head Screw Driver 4. Exacto Knife So lets get started. I ordered my E-11 Blaster from E-Bay for $8 Buy it now and $8 shipping a Total of $16. It was a Star Tours Version which is the same as the Other HASRBO E-11 but in Black and White tone, not the Orange and White. Here is the pic of the balster I purchased. Step one. First thing we need to do is to remove all the screws from the gun, with a Phillips Head Screw Driver. There will be a total of 11 Screws. 2 of them will be smaller than the rest. They are from the Tip of the gun (Site and Bottom portion of the barrell). Step 2 You may notice that the gun will not open even with all the screws out. Well thats becuase the next thing that had to be done to get this open, was to pry my Scope Cap off. While researching this is the part many had issues with and did not know how it was done. Many posted how they did it, but did not show. So here is how I was able to pry my Scope Cap off. Work it all the way around very slowly but firmly. Dont go to hard, or else cracking and or breakage could occure. AS you can see in the pic below, there was some minor cracking. (Dont worry we can fix this later.) Once you work it all around you should be able to get it off like so. Step 3 (Optional) I did the same process to the Cap in the front of the scope. If doing the Hasbro Doopy Doos mod, this part just gets cut off but I was not sure at the time, as I had not got my kit when I started to pry apart, so I did it be safe. I am showing this step just so other can see. Step 4 Well now that we have the Screws off, and have removed the caps from the scope. We need to cut off the front portion of the gun (the orange tip) also. NOW I know that we are to remove the entire front portion, but again I was afraid to as I did not have my DOOPY Kit at the time, so I only cut off the Orang tip. Here is what I cut off. You can see I tried to pry the orange tip (SO I would not have to cut) but I decided to hack it off, as I was pretty confident at this point that it needs to get cut off to add the doopys barrel tip. Here it is after I decided to just cut it off. Step 5 This is the part that most people dont even mention (Some do) but not all, and thought I should share this experience. What needs to be done after the all the parts that are holding the gun together is to pry the the glued seem of the gun apart. This is where my troubles started. So I decided to go at it with the same small Flat head screw driver, and quickly realized that this was damaging the gun quickly as seen here. So change of plans, and I went at it with an Exacto Knife. Did this all the way down the bottom portion of the barrell Like so So now you can start to pry the gun apart, but you may notice that the top fin is also glued together and may start to break a bit. (Dont worry if it happens, we will fix later) So be careful (also be careful when using the exacto knife, as you can see in the 1st pic below I cut myself pretty bad) Now pry the back part of the gun, You should not have to use the exacto here, but all cases are differnt. You can see that it comes apart like so! After all that the gun should open up like so.

Good Luck. I will be going AM myself once I get a TK. I like the thickness and glossyness it comes in. Great work!

Congrats Brotha!

Thanks for the reference pics! The reason I mentioned Chicago screws is because it’s mentioned as a requirement for 501 approval (if used), which is stated on the 501 CRL and could be why Vern mentions them. I know on some other build threads people were using them. This why I used Jean rivets, as they look closely similar and matched more closely to the rivet already on the Holster. Again apologies to all and I hope the mods can just delete this thread as I don’t want to already be banned and I have not even applied for 501 approval. Here is the excerpt from the 501 CRL Holster For 501st approval: Holster is worn on left side of belt. It must be made of black leather or leather-like material, and must be attached via two leather or leather-like material straps to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt. The holster must be affixed with only two fasteners at the bottom (one per strap). The fasteners may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.

Thanks Loctis. I will most likely buy next Holster (when I actually make a TK suit) from vern (his look really nice) and go from there. I have been using the TK CRL for ANH STUNT as a reference when I dont know what to do about the TX. AGain this community is great and I thank you for the input. I may redo this HOW TO and change it to how to attach your holster for ANH HERO style, (add the two other rivets) but use the GUIDE posted by gmrohdes as the actually were and how to PLACE the belt.

Its a bit discouraging, as I left it open for people to decide where to place it, but that was not clear enough. Also on the TX CRL even the TK CRL, none of the above info is noted. The link with the pic of where to place the Holster is a great reference guide and would have totally followed it, but again that pic was no where to be found in the CRL nor in any how to that I could find. Exactly why I started this thread. Ii may have not looked good enough though and thanks for posting as it could help someone and I hope that some here can post that in the HOW TO section even the TUT section, as something this specific should be archived. As for the holster, it was bought from stromtrooperundersuit.com - Do they sell non approvable holsters? Its seems that the guy that sells Holsters here (Vern) on the forums said it was all wrong (i believe him too) but I am erked a little if its not an approvable holster. Vern - The paint is fine on the belt, (in fact its not even painted) its just has lots of greasy finger prints on them , just needs a good wipe down and should be nice and shiny again. As for the corners, that was going to be my next question, as in the TX CRL its not specified at all. (not even for centorioun) so I was not sure if its ok for TX to have that angle.

thaks for the Input guys. MODS please delete this thread apologies to all!

Part 2 - Step 6 Now that we have pinched the plastic tool to the holster and belt; Using the Mallet/Hammer, and hammer the tool together so that they can picnh the rivets together. Like this: Once you have hemmared and piucned the the rivets in place you can remove the plasti tool and the rivets are now in place like this. Here is the front Here is the back Repeat these steps to both sides and your holster will look like this. ( I went ANH STUNT) I hope this helps some one out there.

Hi everyone, as promised I have set to do another How To and place them here to the forums. I just feel it’s the least I can do to give back to a community that has given back to me on this project. So lets get started. As with much of this build I found that the stuff I thought in my head would be easy, turned out to be harder or more steps than I thought. So with attaching the belt I thought it would be easy (and it is, after research) but when I started to actually think about how to do it and where to get snaps rivits etc, I noticed I have no clue what I am doing. I searched and found many post on what to do as far as how to attach a holster, but never did I find one that actaully showed how to do it or what they used and where they got the supplies from . So here it goes. Things you will need. 1. Rubber Mallet or Hammer - (Home Depot, LOWES, etc) 2. Jean Rivets (5/16 or 7.9mm) – (Michael’s) 3. Jean Rivet tool Kit - (Michael’s) 4. TK Style Holster – (www.StormTrooperundersuit.com) 5. Canvas Belt – (www.Trooperbay.com) Step 1 . First thing that needed to de done for my particular holster that I received from www.stormtrooperundersuit.com was to cut off the loop portion so its no longer a loop in two places on both sides. Here is what the holster looks like. Here is the loop part we will be cutting. Here is the first portion that I had to cut, this is the one closest to the rivet that is connected to the base of the holster. Here is where I cut on the second part. It's where the loops folds over. Here it is after both pieces are cut off leaving you with only one piece. Repeat to the other strap on the ohter side. Step 2 – Now that you have it all cut up and left with a single strap on both sides, we can now begin to test out the placement of where you want to place your Holster. Here is when you can decide whether or not you are going to ANAH STUNT (has only 2 rivets to hold in place) or be a ANH HERO (version that has 4 RIVETS. Please note that whatever way you decide to go, the holster is to be attached the holster with rivets from Behind the canvas belt. Here is a pic of my placing the holster behind my belt and trying to find the best place to attach the holster. Step 3 – Now that you have figured out where you are going to place your holster, you need to attach it to the belt. And this is where I started to get stuck. As I read and researched I noticed that people were using split rivets, snaps with rivet style backings, even Chicago Screws. I was overwhelemed at what road to take and having no luck finding split rivets (except for online). So a trip to Michael’s ( I was looking for a hobby anvil) I found something that looked like exactly I was looking for. Here it is – Jean Rivets Then I realized that I would need some sort of tool to attach these, (like snap systems does) and sure enough right next to the Jean Rivets was the Jean Rivet tool kit. Here it is – Jean Rivet Tool Kit I bought them both and took a chance that they would match the rivets on the holster already. So when I got home and checked the size against what was on the holster, I was happy to know that they were an EXACT match. Here is a pic of comparing the rivet on the holster to what I bought. Pretty close right? Here are the rivets front and back before attaching them. OK so lets attach them! First thing you need to do is to hole punch a hole in the canvas belt and holster strap at the same time. You can use the hole punch tool that came with your Jean Rivet kit.. Here is a pic of the hole puncher Then you attach the hole puncher to the plastic holder that also came with the Rivet Kit. Like this Now place your hole puncher to the area you want to attach with rivet against the top of the canvas belt and the holster strap directly behind it (placed where you want it) so that we can punch a hole through the Canvas belt and holster at the same time. Like so Using your mallet or hammer begin to punch the hole puncher through the belt and holster. Use a hard surface. It should end up looking like this once it’s through. Step 4 - Now that the hole has been punched through both the Holster straps and the Canvas belt, and make sure you can push through the male portion of the Jean rivet like so and that there is enough room for the female portion to snap it together. Now that you have verified that the male part pushes throught the holes, we can use our plastic tool and two rubber/metal groumets that are used to punch the Jean rivets together. (comes in the kit) Here are the groumets and plastic tool. You will need to attach the groumets to the holes on the plastic tool . Like this - Notice that one groumet has a dent in it. Now we need to add the Female part of the Jean rivet to the groumet that has the dent in it the male portion on the other side Like so: Step 5 Now lets punch the rivets so that we can attach the holster and belt together. So lets pinch the plastic tool with the rivets inside them to the holster and belt. Like this

Congrats Bro!

Here are some better shots that my wife took with her new Camera. WOW what a differnce. Will be using this Camera to submit my actuall photos. Anyways only two were taken with this camera, and in one its obvious that my chest is sticking out do to my amp falling dowards. (I will fix that).

Yea I agree these pics are crap, as I had my settings set a bit too low (640x480) so the res came out bad. Here are some pics. As I said in my OG post, that I am waiting for a better lid as I know the AM lids are not acceptable. Waiting on a AT helmet from Arakyle on Spec Ops forum. Here are some better pics. these I posted in spec ops. please any feed back is welcome, as I know there is stuff to tweak!! I am concerned about the holster placement, and if my belt hangs to much to my left side because of the holser (more snaps?)

HI everyone, there are not all the pics that I posted on Spec Ops, but my TX suit is almost complete.I wanted to post hear as there is more traffic here. I still need to add the drop Boxs as I am waiting for the backings to make them full, and those are in the mail, should arrive this monday or Tuesday. I just did not want to add them until I got them. Also need my AT Helmet that is coming from Poland. AM for now sorry guys I know its hated and trust me this thing looks to big for my smaall frame. I think my thighs may need raising, and I Holster may be in the wrong spot. Please any comments welcome advice and crtiques is appreciated as I want to go for Specialist (once its ready) its like EIB for TX i think. some action shots!

yeah this was the thread that helped me the most.

I have sir, and they WORK GREAT!!!! I will use these on my DOOPY DOOS as well for the silver part. For my helmet I used the Silver for the teeth. Yes I know its a AM helmet, but this is just for now until I get my smaller one in a few weeks. ----------

ANd yet ANOTHER update. My wife good bless her heart, had got a letter from USPS to pick up a registerd LETTER and BAM she actually received my order from stormtrooperundersuit.com, so I got both my things from the UK Today. YES. Pics up soon!

Well GREAT news i may have spoken too soon. Looks like my kit arrived today. Yippy I'm so excited. Im at my in laws now so I cant post pics. Doopys never did get back to me but at this point I'm just glad i got it. Now just waiting for my undrsuit order, but thats another story!

Great thread!

Well I ordered my package on the 18th got a dispatched email on the 19th and today still nothing. It looks like I may be a victim of USPS and customs issues. I have emailed doopys and still have heard nothing. Damn this really sucks! Same deal with my order from trooperundersuit.com

kupertrooper thanks so much for the update. Yes this place is really great. Im still in shcok that I got it to work!

IM 33 and all the Vets. I was not even a born when ANH came out, and to be honest can really remember when I saw it, I know I did (lots) probably at friends houses. I always loved HAN, and connected with the "Use the Force "place my name here"! lines, But I ALWAYS thought Storm Troopers and Scouts were the coolest! To find out I had acess to be something like a TK (im TX) was good enough for me. Now my Toy collecting of Actions Figures has now become Making me an Action Figure! I will never be too old for any of this, and will be like this till im 6 ft under.

cant wait to get my white armor

Hi everyone, with so many great HOW TO'S that helped me along my build and more importantly NODONER from the SEPC OPS forum for taking his time to help. He really is a great artist in anything he does, and has helped me keep my build as good as can be. With that, he had shown me a few tricks and I thought I should share and give back to the community since the parts I did do on my own, I used the HOW TO SECTION. (Especially here in the Whitearmor forums). Althogh I am a TX, the TD is the same but black (correct me if I am wrong Admins and apologies in advance if I am), but based and all the research and pics they do look the same. So first thing I noticed after I got shins in place, Foam in place to keep a good fit, and my Bass Amersterdams all on for the first time and I started walking around the house, I noticed that my shins kept shift bad and next thing you know my cover strips were on the SIDE of my legs. So here is what nodoner showed me. I am sure this can be used for the TK crew as well. Things you will need. 1. Industrial Strength Velcro 2. Some left over ABS from your build 3. Dermal or Cutting tool 4. Boots 5. Shins from your TX or TK armor. I did not take pictures of the build process from the start, so apologies in advance. First step Grab a piece of left over ABS and Cut it to about a tab length. Almost like a rectangle. This may differ depending on what types of boots you have, but most boots are the same. Second Step (a few) Once you have cut a rectangular strip, you will want get your industrial strength Velcro loop and stick it to one side of the tab. The Other side can also be loop but it will be longer than the actual tab; this is the part that will hold on to the inside of your boot. Make sure to use loop and NOT hook here. Your finished product should look like this. Close up of the Tab Tab stuck on to the inside of the boot. Make sure to stick it on to the front part of the shoe. Third Step The Bass Amsterdam’s that I bought have tabs on the back of the shoe. We will use this tab to add a strip of our Velcro (Loop) to it, plus a little more so it goes a down a bit. It should look some thing like this. Here is a close up of the tab with loop stuck on. Here is a side view to give better viewing perspective Fourth Step Now get your shins! We will be adding the HOOK portion of the VELCRO to the BACK side of the INSIDE part of the shines. I added a lot of HOOK and I used the wider stuff to give myself more room to adjust. If you want to be more precise about it, just put on your shoes and shin and mark were you need to apply the hook once you have them on. Here is a pic of the inside back part of the shin You will need to do the same to the FRONT portion of the shin as well Here is a pic of that. I used the overlap method, but I am sure strip cover backings will have no issue here either. Fifth Step Now that you have all your Velcro in place, you can try them on. You can even connect the shoe to the Shin and the shin will stay in place. Like this! Here I am trying them on and running around my condo like a madman. (I was making sure that they don’t move around of course). And they didn’t. (I have not completed my suit as of this build so excuse the missing under suit and AM helmet etc .) Again I hope this helps, and this will be the first of a few more How Tos I will be posting. Just my way of trying to give back to a cimmunity that has been very cool. My Wife is loving it. Lea for her (but thats another story)

Just so you know this thread and the link from the post above helped me get the Drop boxes. Looks like EIB may be in sights for me after all.