The5thHorseman

Should be something like that:

Dans ce cas là , fait très gaffe, j'ai déjà eu de mauvaises expériences avec le fait de chauffer l'armure (bon ok, j'y allais au briquet ) mais tout de même vas-y progressivement avec la chaleur et prend ton temps Et sinon pourquoi ne pas tenter les crochets au final ? Je suis en train de faire les miens, et si tu veux je te redis de l'efficacité ou non du système si ça t'intéresse.

Ok, au vu des photos, j'ai l'impression que ton vrai problème est que le velcro ne reste pas collé à l'armure une fois scratché ensemble. Quel colle utilise-tu, e6000 ? Si oui, dans ce cas tu peux peut-être essayer de changer pour un type de colle plus puissante, et si t'es très courageux tu peux prendre une colle de type CyanoAcrylate qui est très très puissante. Mais attention, une fois collé c'est quasiment impossible à décoller; et aussi faire un test avant par ce que je ne suis pas sur de l'interaction de la CA glue avec le velcro (j'ai peur que le velcro "boive" la colle). Et sinon tu peux tenter de chauffer l'arrière de tes mollets jusqu'à les refermer ce qui devrait soulager la tension exercé sur le velcro lorsqu'ils sont fermés et éviter qu'il se décolle. Je te comprend tout à fait, j'ai tendance à être exactement pareil !!

Tu sais, avoir un jour entre les deux parties du mollet à l'arrière est quasiment normal. C'est la manière dont est fait l'armure. Après, sans photos il est assez difficile de se prononcer par rapport à ton cas. Et sinon, pour exemple, les mollets de l'armure (TM ) de Dday certifié Centurion à 100% :

It should work now ! Thank you for telling me

You made a great job with the Euro runs by providing better rails ! I've already found some identical aluminum strips as you described, i just need to buy them

There's an interesting way to cut the cod here on the board by Darth Voorhees, and IMHO it seems better than just put some velcro. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/3473-another-way-to-cuttin-the-cod/

Hi everyone, I found some time between two cover strips, snaps, straps and other kind of stuff to work a little on my DVH blaster. Don't expect major progress, it's only small, almost useless details that had to be done to satisfy my (god damn) perfectionism . First, that little piece located on the bottom of the mag well. I don't even know what is it but it was missing so I added it thanks to a small piece of ABS shaped to fit and some 2 parts epoxy: And then i fixed the front muzzle/pipe junction again with 2 parts epoxy. A bit harder to do than I expected but now it's done and it looks better than before ! And a front pic to show the flat area preserved Now I really need to do my scope and hengstler rails but when I was hammering the aluminium rail provided it broke (damn I would have done a bad blacksmith ) !!! So i have to find a new rail right now...

So will I be the only one to have the guts to use the resin T-tracks provided ^^ ?!? Or maybe I'm just the only one too much greedy about his money !! Good luck with your build. I'll be following it if ever you need some advice

I'm almost sure this armor isn't an AP. I'm building one and a lot of parts look different. But I will let the final word to the experts. Apart from that, you're looking good in this armor. There's just the elbow gap that could be reduced by lowering your biceps. And also the left shoulder bell that could be brought more forward.

You used a bit too much of glue but it's fine, you wiil be able to easily remove it with the your thumb pulp Also, if small bubbles of glue have been formed near the edges due to an excess of glue, just gently score it with your x'acto and then rubbed it away with tweezers. I found this way very efficient. And you're right to begin with shins, up to now they have been the easiest parts for me to glue together

For the ejection port and the inner bolt/spring slide I made the rounded corners with a drill and after that I cut the straight lines with a PVC circular saw for Dremel. But you have to be very careful, you certainly won't be able to cut the whole ejector lines with this tool because it's very narrow and there's the risk to bit on the sides. Once I cannot continue further with the Dremel I made the finitions with an X-acto knife for more precision (but your blade needs to be very sharp cause the pipe is very thick ). Then i use some different grades of sandpaper on the whole things to finish them. Et voilà , but be sure that it might looks easy when i write it but it was a bit more difficult to do for me.

Indeed you're right, but it's not something I will be able to fix because of the difference of diameter between the pipe and the rear cap :s If I add material at the end of the pipe the end cap won't fit any longer; and if I withdraw material on the inside of the end cap it will be too thin... Bref, lots of troubles for small, almost un-noticeable details !

In fact, it's not really circular, I cut one of the wire approximately halfway. This way I have the rounded effect up, but the wire sit flat along the pipe. Also I covered it with CA glue once installed, so the wire is no longer soft when you touch it Perhaps I could just cut along this blue line? Because on my ref pics I couldn't say if the side towards the end cap is straight or rounded.

Just a little update of some adjustments I've done after your remarks. I reshaped the lower corner of my ejection port. This was very difficult to do but I gotta admit this is much better like that. While doing it what I feared happened, I did a lot of scratchs along the inner bolt, that's why there's some green stuff on it to fix them. And now the rear breech, kind of a pain in my a** for a while ! To do it I used this: At last a useful way to use the old iPod headset !! The result (sorry for the yellowed pics, but I took them with artificial light and a yellow background): It's not wonderful but I'm confident that once painted it will make the illusion

The depressions are still here, the resolution of the pic is simply too low. I just had to reshape them a little because I screwd them with my Dremel when I was adding some depth.

Effectively you're right ! I'll try to fix it later but it might be difficult as my inner bolt is linked with my inner barrel which is linked to the front muzzle :s I know I don't have that rear breech but it's very hard to add to the pipe. I keep that in mind each time i find a piece of gear to check if it could make the deal ! In last resort I will sculpt it. Yeah of course ! I'll be pleased to help them !

Hi everyone, It's been several weeks since I've begun to work on my E-11 and right now I think it might be time for some posting It took me a lot of extra-time because I wanted to add some features to the kit, and gathering the parts plus taking some reflexion about how I'll make these functional were quite long... I wish I took more pics but most of the time I was too unsure of what I was doing for making pics for a possible how-to thread. So let's start with the last thing I've done, the Inner Barrel: Then the Front sight where I had to add a new sight and re-sculpt the flying tips: Useless pic but, well... I took it, so ^^: The area I flattened for the bayonet lug: A little pic to show the efforts I've made to smoothen the junctions between the parts and the pipe, Here the Mag well junction: As the grip and the inner handle are separated I had to re-sculpt the screw which goes through the handle. I also had to correct a mis-alignment on the folding stock's right branch: Functional Fire selector: And spring trigger, I made the video as it was still a work in progress for my bro and I was very happy it works The spring I made with a wirecoat and I'm glad it turned so well ! I know it's certainly not the best spring there is but hey, it's just a wirecoat that had been rounded around a broomstick : Damn this D-ring was so tough, also unbendable !! Even heated ! I struggled really hard to make it fit without taking the original D-ring home away. Sights alignment, Wasn't that simple, I had to re-glue my rear sight twice :s And now some Overviews to show at which level I am right now: And now with the RESIN t-tracks provided with the kit installed. Here too I'm really happy of the result: Now, what I still have to do: - Glue the Power cylinders as soon as I get them - Make the scope and hengstler rails - Installed the wires between power cylinders and hengstler - Re-shape the junction between the pipe and the front muzzle - Paint the whole thing ! I hope I will be able to post the rest of my build soon but right now I'm working on my armor. Most important first

It might be what you are looking for: http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/BlasterCoreV4-GB.pdf Website link: http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=1148&language=en And if you still have questions I think this is the guy to contact

You're really looking awesome in your armor !! Congrats on your approval, you deserve it ! Now you just need to: Give us fuel Give us fire Give us that which we desire

See how powerful are the words ? ^^ The feather is definitely stronger than the blaster But I'm agree about modifying the "if" with something else.

The mention " But, if you want to have..." is a bit ambiguous, it sounds like it's optionnal. That's why I mentionned it must be confirmed by someone else. I guess i was wrong Rather, I would write: "In order to have the correct number of T-tracks..."

By reading the CRL for EIB, I do understand that you could have a 7 T-tracked blaster. t's only if you want to have 6 t-tracks on your blaster for accuracy, that you have to care about drilling row holes, etc... To be confirmed but IMHO, nothing prevent you for having 7 t-tracks on your hasbro blaster for EIB

I count on you to apply the imperial law aboard Enjoy it !

Of course, share it as much as you want ! it's my pleasure