Zaphod

Knee Plate (3F, 4F) These were located in the space above the two calf pieces (3D, 4D) That wasn't too bad. Just the thing to build up your confidence with this new armor, with no sign of replacement parts in the near future if you mess up. Lets keep going with the easy stuff. Shoulder Guards (5D, 5E) The cut lines are obvious, nothing tricky about these. The Inner Shoulder Guard Tab (6F, 6G) These are the pieces that gets glued under the shoulder guards. This is another easy piece to cut. Lets Glue it. I centered the lip inside the Guard as best I could, marked around the Inner Tab with a pencil and sanded both gluing surfaces to rough them up, (give the glue something to grip on to). I penciled out the position of the Inner Tab because I wanted to use CA glue, and you don't have much time to position your pieces once you put them together. I used CA Glue for the first time on this part. Zap-a-Gap is scary fast, so I'll use it sparingly for the rest of this build. I'll mostly use it where there isn't a lot of gluing surface area, where there are seamless joints or where parts might slide around while clamping. More easy stuff to come. -Zaphod

So this will be my first build thread, and my second set of armor. I was very appreciative of all the build threads when I built my ANH Hero TK, and since there aren't too many TFA build threads, I figured the more the merrier. Every little bit of information, all of the mistakes or just things that didn't work out, will help the next person. Thank you to everyone who has shared their TFA builds, I'll be studying them as I write my own. I have progressed to the point where I'm waiting for ABS Paste to harden on the Back/Yoke, Thermal Detonator and Chest Resin cutout, so in the mean time I'll post some my progress to date. Obligatory Brown Box photos Resin Parts Tools *Utility Knife and cut resistant gloves! (Really, I nearly lost a finger cutting the TD on my ANH TK) I used the cut and snap method for the most part. If you prefer to use sheers or snips or a Dremel with cutting wheels, that's fine too. Use whatever makes you comfortable. The first cut is always a little nerve wracking. *Belt Sander If you don't have one of these, borrow buy or rent one. It will save you a ton of time, and those seamless edges will turn out a whole lot better. Thanks Krista (kme1682) for suggesting I get a Belt Sander. *Sandpaper 120 grit and 220 grit. The belt sander came with an 80 grit sanding belt. *Dremel with sanding barrels There will be a lot of sanding *CA Glue (Zap-a-Gap) and Zip Kicker *E-6000 *ABS Paste (tiny pieces of ABS cut from the armor trimmings, baby food jar, acetone) *Popsicle sticks *Bondo glazing putty The First Cut Let's start with the easy stuff Butt and Cod (5B,5C) I have to say, the cut lines are fairly obvious on this kit. (for the most part) The butt and cod are easy to cut. I marked out all the cut lines with pencil. Using a utility knife, (don't forget the cut resistant gloves) I lightly scored close to the cut line. I went back over the score line two more times a little heavier each time, and then the scrap is ready to break away. Then I used the belt sander to sand down to the cut line. I then smoothed the edges with 120 grit sand paper. I used the Dremel with sanding barrel to sand in between the tabs. Hand guards (3E,4E) These were located in the space above the two front shin pieces (3C,4C) Same as before; pencil in the cut lines, score & snap, belt sander, clean up by hand with 120 grit. Tune in next time for Knee Plates and Shoulder Bells -Zaphod

Have any updates? I'm eager to hear how you got on whit the Devcon Plastic Welder II and Evercoat Poly-Flex Flexible Polyester glazing putty. Pete

A lot of troopers use Doopydoo's E11 Blaster, it costs around $45 plus shipping for a raw resin kit. Edit: here's the link http://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp Hyperfirm is another top choice for unbreakable/rubber blaster with sharp details, I think they go for around $240

What are these "PDF Instructions" you speak of, and where does one get a hold of them? My boxes, #1 & #2, had no pdf instructions.

I believe I requested a pair of XL Gloves in the TK7 Boot thread. I'll mention it here too [emoji4]. I'm #10 on the first round list for boots (size 11). Can you ship both together and save some $$ on shipping charges? -Pete

I'm also waiting for my kit to arrive next month. Post lots of pics ease. The Bravo group will be following your build with great interest. Good luck! -Pete

pi

Or you could try Trooper Bay http://trooperbay.com/index.php/decals/prop-replica-decals/star-wars-props/troopers-tk/standard-tube-stripes.html

No! Do not get those boots. Check out these instead http://tkboots.com/

I ordered the Transdermal throat microphone XVTM26M35 (Dual Transponders) http://www.ixradio.com/shop/transdermal-throat-microphone-xvtm26m35.html. My experience with it were disappointing. I have a 44cm neck and I found I could only one transponder to my 'sweet spot' and the other transponder ends up on the side of my neck. At home in my workshop, my tests were promising. I discovered that once I found my sweet spot, for me it was high up on my neck, above my adams apple and just to left of center, the volume improved the longer i wore it. I was able to max out the Aker and get no feed back. However, I wore it to a Con and found that even at max volume, the noise from the Con drowned out my Aker/throat mic combo. So perhaps it is better suited for someone with a smaller neck. I'm selling mine if you want it, $45 shipped. PM me if interested.

I think Francisco (Echo) said at Celebration, he is/will be working on a variation of his current fan system for the TFA bucket.

Having "Gappy" ears is not a requirement for Centurion. With ABS paste, it would be possible to bond the ears to the helmet. I'm not sure a seamless look would be the way to go either. Close the gaps as much as you can without going completely seamless, and you should be good to go. -Pete

I used thick ABS paste to close the gaps. I didn't try to go seamless or anything. Gaps are accurate [emoji12] -Pete

Could you post a link to amazon or something, so I know which one to get. -Pete

Try it again with just your undersuit/underarmor on. You may not have to shim as much as you think.

Here are the changes for the second round copied from the thread on the main forum http://www.501st.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=86394 There will be a few changes, which are still being determined by the ANOVOS manufacturing team. Hoping for a list in the next few weeks. More polished instructions are also in the works. The helmet will be the same fiberglass helmet as well. Please note that the gaskets will be the same as the first wave as any changes would have to go through licensor approval again and would delay these kits. * The black oval decal on the calf near the ankle was too small and will be enlarged. * The right spat had some glue on the buck, and it was coming through the vac form process, so this was fixed. * The left and right calves were not labeled correctly on the buck, and this has been updated. * The indent on the chest near the latch is going to be bigger and more pronounced. * Corrected the crescent moon shape parts under the shoulder bells. * Instructions will be re-done. Shipments estimated to begin in July.

Thats what I did. It worked for me. They still feel a little narrow when I first put them on at a troop. But once I start moving they are comfortable. (Wear thin socks also)

Ordered one -Pete

Take care of yourself first Steve. Burning the candle at both ends takes it out of you for sure. Everyone waiting for EIB and Centurion will understand I'm sure. It was great meeting you a Celebration, and I hope we bump into each other again soon. Get well buddy! -Pete

I had the bracket system and switched it for snaps and straps. I now have more room inside (I trimmed down the return edges) and it is more adjustable. My armor fits me better now. I cut the heads off the screws and glued them on the outside of my armor, it looks like I'm still using the bracket system [emoji6] -Pete

I can bend my arm just enough to turn my Echo fan system on and off. My environmental sound must be turned on before I put on the helmet, but I can control the volume while wearing the helmet because I mounted that component next to one of the fan switches. -Pete

TK belt and Beret also I'm in! Let's order pizza

HI Travis, Did you manage to get in on the NEG Group TK Build? Not to worry if you didn't, there are plenty of approved vendors you can go to. You can contact me here or on the NEG forums if you have any questions. Pete

Thanks