boomshakra

I upgraded the decals last night - so, the ones in my EIB submission came with the helmet, the pictures below my 'first' boot picture are with the Dave M decals. The very last picture of the rear traps was taken out on my workbench, next to my forearm armor (you can see it on the left of the forearm picture). Please let me know what I need to do to provide additional clarification.

Looks great so far! I wish I would have had the patience to do the trigger/trigger guard like you did.

I haven't tried this myself (yet), but it might help to put some moleskin on the back of your drop boxes. That is where the majority of my 'trooping noise' comes from, as far as I can tell.

Name: Jason Sager TKID: 4796 EIB Request thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20383 Garrison: Star Garrison Armor: RT-Mod Helmet: RT-Mod Height: 6'2" Weight: 200lb Forum name: boomshakra Blaster: Doopydoos Resin Boots: TK Boots Neckseal: Trooperbay Holster: TK Bondservnt 2392 Handplates: Sonnenschein Belt: TKittell Decals: Dave M Pictures from EIB submission: Additional photos for Centurion requirements:

nah - just telling you that the way I did it wasn't the right way. since you'll have more room to work with you might be able to squeeze the rivet back into shape from where the 'dot' deformed it, using needle nose pliers and twisting it around so that you shape it properly. or you could probably cut it with a dremel.

I'm pretty sure you can just close them off using a plate like you described. My kit came with the innards, so (fortunately for me) I didn't have that issue. I have read others use magnets/velcro to make the back cover removable so they can store keys/trading cards/cash/etc.

removing rivets can be kind of tricky. I took the ones out of the bottom of the earcaps on my helmet to replace them with screws (EIB/Centurion requirement). The advice I got on here was to drill it out - VERY slowly and VERY carefully. The friction of the drill against the rivet heats up the metal and can melt/damage your plastic. Someone more experienced in doing this can chime in. http://www.whitearmo...107#entry246268 What I did for my helmet was took a small punch and punched out the 'dot' which is what you can see on your photo of the inside of your sniper plate above. I then made the mistake of cutting off the end using wire snips, which took out the inside of the rivet, but deformed the shaft remaining. As a result, I scratched up my helmet around the rivet pretty good. See the link to my thread above - there is more advice from others in there. You will have a bit more room to work with your shins than I did with my helmet. Good luck!

Great job! Congratulations!

I just started reading the first volume of the Republic Commandos series over the weekend. Kind of interesting to get some background on the clones, as well as character backstory for a future build

Definitely incorporate EIB/Centurion requirements to your armor as you build. Buy the side rivets/S-trim/resin blaster, etc. The mods don't really add much time to the build.

Thanks, Eric. I don't remember if it was you or someone else who said "We're taking over FISD, one RT-MOD at a time"

Woot! Thank you!

I had the same problem (timing out & then seeing my post went through...all 4 times) last night when I submitted my EIB thread - the admin on duty was able to delete my multiple posts so they are aware of the issue.

Name: Jason Sager TKID: 4796 Garrison: Star Garrison Armor: RT-Mod Helmet: RT-Mod Height: 6'2" Weight: 200lb Forum name: boomshakra Blaster: Doopydoos Resin Boots: TK Boots Neckseal: Trooperbay Holster: TK Bondservnt 2392 Handplates: Sonnenschein Belt: TKittell

Cool - thanks ya'll!

Seeing as I have absolutely no photoship experience/skills, is there an easy way to make the signature pictures/banners that so many of my fellow TKs display below their posts?

I'm in the same boat as you on thighs (chicken legs...)- took a good chunk out of mine and they are still bells on my legs - practicing for my Squad's flash mob dance I can really feel them bouncing around. I have vertical foam strips positioned around the interior, but I am thinking that your pic above with them making 'snug' contact at the top of the thigh might work better, or help what I currently have stay put. Your build is looking great!

Whoo Hooo! Congratulations!

I just got my Stanley tote and started putting my emergency repair kit together for it. So far I have included: white duct tape black & white industrial velcro (left over from build) extra elastic snap strips (from build) - for various places in armor, as well as a pair of white elastic to connect chest/back super glue old tube of E6000 pair of 3/4" clamps scissors exacto knife (and spare blades) foam pieces double sided tape alcohol wipes zip ties I also have a pack of gum and bottle opener, and will probably find an inexpensive multi-tool/leatherman. It all fits in a gallon ziploc which sits in the tool tray that comes with the Stanley. I'll also put together a checklist (like the one posted above) along with an emergency contact/medical info list.

Congratulations!

Just to comment on t-tracks in general, the ones I used on my home made DLT-19 came from the plastic tracks used for sliding screen doors - just cut them to the right length and then separate them down the middle. I think they only cost $2-3 dollars @ Lowes.

Mine took right around 3 weeks, from brown box arrival to GML approval. I was lucky, in that the kit (RT-Mod) fit me pretty well out of the box, and the only real trimming I had to do was the ab plate and thighs (helmet came pre-assembled, so that was a time saver right there).

Sorry...couldn't help it - sweet lid no matter what the stand says!

Nice "Clone" helmet...

Very impressive - I'm trying to build a Mandolorian helmet using similar templates (for the dome, at least). Challenging, but fun - keep up the good work!