boomshakra

More gluing – both sights glued on. I bought a cheap pack of ‘precision’ screwdrivers ($1.99) and cut off the end of one of the slotted screwdrivers for the sight blade. When I glued it all together the blade ended up being a bit not-so-perpendicular. I chalk this up to not drilling the hole correctly (I am doing it by hand – no drill press, unfortunately) and it will help me keep in the tradition of ‘precise’ TK marksmanship. To close out the evening I glued the targeting tubes to the magazine and reluctantly turned off the light over my workbench. More fun in store tonight!

Deducing that it was a fluke that it broke, I notched the bar again, and then carefully hammered the bar to the correct angle. Upon completion, I could see some stress marks at the bend. But, it had not snapped, so it is all good, right? I drew the outline to cut the front to go into the hole of the tube and started dremeling away. Hmmm…this is aluminum, the dremel should cut through this like butter, right? Um, no. My trusty (rechargeable) dremel started overheating in my hand from my efforts. I got it halfway done, let the dremel cool off, and then started cutting again. SNAP. My first thought was to see how many pieces I could snap the remaining bar into with my bare hands…but I decided to just go back to Lowe’s and see if they had any steel or brass bars. As you can see, I was much more successful with the steel bar. Need to cut the rear out, but as the rear sight was curing that will have to wait until tonight at the earliest.

Now for the really fun part: the scope rail! I notched the aluminum bar, secured it in the vise, and hammered away. Hmm, I over bent it…let me just bend it back a smidge…SNAP

With parts drying, I decided to move on to some primering of other parts. I hit the Hengstler, scope, and end cap. Easy enough. Then I moved on to the “Y†part of the stock, first drilling holes for pins, and then masking the parts where I will be gluing. Once it dried, I glued it to the other stock part and let it sit.

As I was somewhat successful pinning/gluing the grip, I discovered (to my good fortune) that I had a piece of ½â€ PVC that fit snugly inside the Doopys tube – a bolt follower! All I had to do was notch it so it would fit around the grip pin protruding inside the pipe. Score!

The first thing I did was drill out the muzzle to accommodate the hex bolts. Here I learned a) that the bolt heads were a little large for the muzzle, and pilot holes are helpful before drilling with larger drill bits. The pix are too blurry from a close-up to post, but suffice it to say while I did get the oversized bolts put in place, the cost was ‘chipping’ around the muzzle cut-outs – which I just sanded down, glued the bolt heads and went on my merry way. Next up was gluing the trigger & trigger guard to the grip – no drama or excitement here (thankfully). I have been following bigironvault’s build and his use of pins to hold larger pieces to the tube more securely. While I thought I was aligning the pins correctly, upon inserting the grip to the tube I found that I was a bit off center…but not enough to be really noticeable unless you are looking down the tube at the underside of my E-11, something I doubt will happen on any troops. Repeating the process with the magazine produced even worse results, and at that time I abandoned the process and just used E6000. If anything falls off, I’ll just glue it back on

Greetings all! My Doopys E-11 kit build has been fun so far and I couldn’t have done it without all the information posted by those who have traversed the ‘resin-brick-road’ before me! I haven’t posted until now because my archaic desktop PC does not have a card reader, so it has taken me this long to finally be able to upload my progress. Unfortunately, some of the detail pix are a bit blurry so I will have to provide a written description of some of the challenges I have endured. Upon opening the box it was all I could do to restrain myself from bathing the parts in E6000 and slapping it all together at once. Patience is something I have learned over the past couple of days. That, and that my dremel skills (or lack thereof) leave a lot to be desired

Looking good - are you forgoing the bayonet lug? What are you going to use for gap-filling - not familiar with "green stuff" and when I was at Hobby Lobby I couldn't find any resin putty (but didn't look too hard and they were understaffed - I was lucky to get the spray paint I was looking for).

After I posted I got to thinking about it & came up with something close to what you have - I'll post pictures tomorrow if I get time to work on it (and start my own thread so I don't hijack yours ). Keep up the good work - I'll be following along right behind you

Yeah, I was thinking that the ring that comes with the Doopys would be sufficient for certification on both levels. What diameter screw rod did you use? How did you get the holes to line up between the grip and tube? That is the part I am nervous about - having them misaligned and all cattywompus. If that was the case I guess just gluing it w/o the rods would work...but, like you I like the thought of a stronger connection. Looking forward to your next update!

I have found two on craigslist - $10 for each. Picking one up tomorrow, the other one is down the road in SA...might have the in-laws pick that one up if the seller won't ship to me. Of course I found the 2nd one AFTER I ordered my Doopys upgrade kit...so I will have to order another one & it will arrive afterwards. I have my full Doopys that I am going to get started on this weekend, so I have plenty to do while I wait - armor is over a month away to ship. Two other sources I would look into are Goodwill and garage sales - kids grow out of/break stuff and it sometimes makes it to those places instead of the trash can...

I thought they didn't ship to US because shipping costs were prohibitive/cost as much as DLT-19? Did this change recently?

It looks like you are using the metal ring supplied with the kit - does that fulfill the EIB/Centurion blaster requirement? Also, is your endcap like mine, i.e. it does not have the 'tabs' to rotate & lock onto the tube? I would think that if you put a spring in there you'd want more than glue holding it on (to counter the compressed spring). Are you just going to glue it or do you have another method in mind?

I got my Doopys today - I like your idea of pinning/drilling, so I'll be keeping up with your thread (and posting pix of mine as it progresses).

That had better not be my helmet, Rob!

I would worry more about sweating on the lenses and not being able to wipe them. Has anyone tried a mounting bracket behind the green lens for a pair of 'cheap' glasses (removing the arms) so that they are 'always' there?

I was also considering having a Hasbro (or 2...never know when you'll need a backup) for trooping - of course that means ordering from Doopys again...which is fine, but the long wait for the kit to ship to the US is not much fun

someone has been 'adjusting their sniper plate' a little too much

I echo all of the above sentiments: the forum is informational, helpful, encouraging and friendly. Pretty much any and all questions are answered by numerous sources in a very speedy fashion, and the ideas shared spark individual creativity as well. If something hasn't been tried, give it a go - share it & get (constructive - can't emphasize that enough) feedback. There is always something new, different & exciting to be found here.

Cool - it feels a little flimsy, but I realize I won't be using the entire 3' length (that would be for my DLT-19 ).

I didn't really have a reason...it just looked right when I was picking out the materials. Will have to see what it looks like holding the parts together when I get my kit. I didn't know if anyone else had set theirs up that way. Is 1/16" too thin for the rail?

I know this has been covered in other threads, but I can't seem to find what width aluminum bar is used - 1/16" or 1/8"? I bought 1/16" (by3/4") today and it seems flimsy - like the weight of the doopys scope/hengstler will sag. I also bought a pre-bent "L" for lack of better description, 1/16"x1". My thought was that having a wider counter holder would have it away from the scope a bit more - is that ok/canon? Haven't done anything with them - sitting on my bench waiting for my doopys delivery. Any input is welcomed!

Looking good - how much did you have to trim off the armor before you started fitting it? so, I am guessing that with the suspender system the back/chest won't be connected to the kidney/abs?

Thanks, Rick! Let me know how the ab/cod wtih elastic works out - Still have over a month until I get my armor, so I will be interested to hear how 'field testing' goes for your RT-MOD.

Cool - thanks for the clarification - look forward to seeing what the new TK Info Post looks like!