funkster

With the TD If you wanted to reduce the gap and but still have it separate you can do what I did for my ab boxes. Put some mold release / wax on the back plate. Get some body filler / bondo / p38 on the TD Push it in in place so the filler squishes out abs fills the gap Wait for it to go off Pull of the TD as the wax should have stopped the filler attaching Sand and tidy up the TD Boo.

Just to show how a bit of flatting and polishing works miracles Worked on some of the details

My question would be, if you’re going to make a very imposing Vader, then why wouldn’t you want to do that? [emoji6]

Walt

It’s just PLA+ However, I do A LOT of post processing. Sanding, 2K filler primer, sanding, filler primer, sanding….

Yeah I know the design has changed. Annoyingly the designer changed the files a while after I printed/painted mine Currently the TFA shape is allowable under the CRL but it will be something I upgrade in the future. I’ve been following the CRL discussion thread for TLJ/RoS and noted a lot of the changes

Have now

Back to the lid. Walt’s is a little smaller than my ABS TFA Anovos but, other than my giraffe neck, looks ok proportion wise (chest isn’t finished or attached) Lid on the left is the 3D printed version

Blaster wise I’m using the files from 5th Horseman Already a Heavy F-11, so am doing both the normal sized F-11 and the pistol Again all printed onto CR-10 with a few resin parts done by a buddy 2k white again 2k matt black which is coming up with a bit of a satin finish

Paint wise I’m lucky to have access to a spray booth so have been using 2k automotive paint. White primer Traffic white RAL 9016 Clear coat Flattened and the machine polished This should provide a hard wearing surface as well as ability to polish up

Onto the WTF lid Lots of excess be cut / sanded before you even get started. Then some parts needed work to be able to fit as there was over lap. Even after that I’m struggling to get the face/tears/lip to all line up Have messaged Walt who suggested more sanding of the inside However, when the tears are in the right place, the lip of the face wants to go under the brow. Line up the brow and the rest leaves gaps.

Couple of test fits

Very quick gasket check

This was the last suit up (with wrong cod) before the final painting started

Cod needed a bit of as couldn’t get the right shape, but a bit of cut and shut of two versions and it’s pretty close

I think I went through about 7-8 rolls of filament, so about £150

TD needed work to get it to TLJ Cut off the end, designed a small cylinder in Tinkercad Printed and added to the end

All the parts were small prints and then glued together Back / Yolk - 6 pieces Shoulders - 2 pieces Thighs - 2 pieces Biceps - 2 pieces Chest - 6 pieces Butt - 4 pieces Spats - 2 pieces Belt boxes - 2 pieces Abs - 8 pieces Knees - 2 pieces TD - 1 piece Back plate - 1 piece Calves and forearms printed as one Details all printed in pieces

Reposting this in the right section now. Back in 2019 I was building a FOTS and was waiting for a backpack model. I noticed the same designer had a TLJ set of files so decided to build two costumes at once. Fast forward to today and I’m on the final stages of flatting and polishing the armour. The pictures below will be slightly out of sequence but I’ll try and comment on certain parts Armour - Akira-Yuming on CG Trader Printed on my CR-10S Lid - Tried building the 3D files but it’s proving very tricky. Bought a WTF which is going together better but not perfectly Gaskets - Geeky Pink but I do have a set of Anovos rubber as well Pouches / Pauldron - Trooper Bay Gloves / Boots - IB Belt - Belts of the First Order

“Glad” it’s not just me then Little irritating as I’m full steam on my build at the minute

I’d be interested in how you get on with the lid if you’re building it Mine’s been “tricky” to get to fit together Did you get any helmet clips?

Just a question about the armour/blaster parts that are listed as “black” Is it Matt or Satin? In the CRL(s) it just says “black” Might it be helpful to specify?