Arnie_DK

HAha awesome guys

The video is listed as: Private. Cant see it...

Thats just not fair

My plan was to hollow out a bit of the handle, and scratch build a trigger that could push the button. But if I fail that I will contact Zero Room, so thanks for the tip. But so far i have found room for the led and the plastic casing thing that helps with some light effects. I have "modified" (Chopped) at the speaker a bit, so it could fit inside the tube. I'm going to scratch build a Hengstler so I can store the batteries in there. I'm quite good at building things out of plasticard, so I think it should work out well. I have uploaded some pictures on photobucket, but I'm not sure how to post them here, but here is the links. The tube with the led inside and the rest sticking out -----------

Hey all I'm trying to put some blaster sounds into my SDS E-11, using the guts from a Hasbro Boba Fett blaster, as the Hasbro E-11 just sounds awfull! So far I have torn apart the blaster, and am trying to make everything fit inside in a very Viking way (anything that dosent fit, gets chopped at, til it does). My main problem is the trigger part. I somehow need to grind out the original trigger and make a new one that can push the button on the sound board. Does anyone have a tip or have tried anything like this, I would love any advice I can get. I dont have a lot of tools, so I have to keep this a rather "simple" mod. Cheers

Challenge accepted!!

I like. Great job!

Just remember to assemble them the the right way, with the overlapping part facing outwards Do this and i dont think there should be any problems

A picture tells a thousand words, and will help us help you. But mayby you should try lovering the back plate, instead of shimming the kidney/butt.

You Sir, are insane!!! Love it

As i've been told, 1.5 is more flexible than the 2.0 so i should be able to sit down, without worrying about the butt plate cracking or anything.

Looks like FX to mee, with Elvis boots.

I went with the 1.5mm

Look like your making good progres. And a nice build too

Thanks for all the advice people. Preciate it And yes the armour is TM too Just had a PM from him, asking if I want 1,5 or 2mm... Getting closer Not really sure what the big difference is between the two. But Im going to troop with this, so I'm thinking 2mm

Isnt that just a matter of getting used to it

Well thats good. But i still dont see why E6000 is better than the plastic glue. I want my glue to make a permanent bond when its dry, and E6000 just seems "weak" to me, when you can just peel it of when its dry. And 24H drying time, just doesent appeal to me... Its a weakness i have. Sorry. I can see why its nice to be able to correct your mistakes, if you do make some, but thats the only real advantage I see.... Am I missing something completely? But I'm going to make some test with both glues on some scrap ABS when i have it, and then i will fully decide then.

Not sure I follow?? I know the Humbrol plastic cement "melts" the plastic, but never heard of E6000 doing it. Is it when it is combined with metal, or???

Im gonna use snap plates inside the armor

Ahh... yeah i know those. I have seen them at Softgun events and i think the British army uses them as well. But i have only seen them as PTT, so i dont think it would work, with the neck seal, and unbendy arms, unles you somehow find one that is VOX activated.

Yeah i hear ya. If i had a wire, i think I would tear it out mid troop in frustration!! I have seen some people attaching the mic to their chin, instead of the helmet. This would remove some the frustration of the wire running out of the helmet... but I just dont like the idea...But maybe thats just me

About a month from now, I should have a big brown box in my possesion, if not, then it would be very close. Anyway, before that said box arrives, i want to be sure, that i have everything ready for it, so I can start the build right away. I'm going for EIB and Centurion with this kit, although I'm gonna build it for trooping. So far i have theese items on their way from Trooperbay: E6000(3 tubes) Frown mesh Rare earth magnets(30 pcs) Gray and french blue humbrol paint I have found Lexan scissors and a good modelling knife. I'm gonna use snap system for the strapping inside the armour, and adopting the original strapping system for the shins. Shoulders will be connected across the back of the neck i think, but not fully decided yet. For the neck seal, I'm thinking of sewing a simple one that i can just pull over my head, with no back seam. Maybe even attach it to the neck on my undersuit. Although i have ordered E6000, I'm not sure I will use it. I'm used to woorking with plastic cement on miniatures, and actually assembled most of my FX armour kit with it. I used the blue bottle with the yellow top, from Humbrol, and i like how the plastic fuses together, for a strong bond. But will this work on ABS? If going with the E6000, should the part be sanded, before the glue is applied, so as to give a good bonding surface? Helmet will be assembled and painted by TM himself, and I'm also getting my belt and holster from him. I got rubber handplates and gloves from Karin. So, have I missed anything? Any and all advice is more than welcome! Cheers

Sorry to hear that... Guess those wireless mics are quite sensitive...

Can i change the skin on the boards??? Didnt know, and dont really care. I'm here because i like whats here, and not how it looks

Looking good. I like that you are keeping the scratching at a minimum.