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Darth Aloha

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Everything posted by Darth Aloha

  1. Germain! Bless your heart. I'll be in touch. Tim: You might want to email Rob and ask him to trim your armor for butt joints and cover strips. His default is to send it trimmed for overlap construction. -Eric
  2. Thanks for posting the photo of your d-ring. You're approved. Congrats trooper for being EIB #350 -Eric
  3. Where is KW when we need him? -Eric
  4. That's the ticket. Thanks for embodying the attitude we look for in Centurions. Approved! -Eric
  5. Oh dude you're going to hate me. The forearms still need a little more taken off. Here's a recent Centurion as an example: The thigh pack is a go. An offhand suggestion.... you might want to take a piece of sandpaper to the edges to straighten out the edges and take a few flat spots off the curve. Sorry! -Eric
  6. Sorry for delay. Approved. Congrats trooper! -Eric
  7. Aloha troopers, Earlier this year the detachment voted on a ton of changes to the Centurion requirements, and a few for Expert Infantry. The stars aligned and it was finally time to make the changes we decided on oh so long ago. I feel so strongly about making these changes that at least three of them put me out of the running for Centurion. While the changes go in effect immediately I am willing to overlook some of these new requirements for people in the midst of their build. Please send me a PM if you have concerns and I'm happy to work it out. The biggest change that effects only a few people is that the overlap construction method is no longer allowed for Centurion unless you have a ROTJ style costume. We also made some changes to the wording around the side rivets for Centurion. Another thing of note is that ab buttons must be painted directly on the ab plate rather than use a Chicago style screw for Centurion. And lastly FX armor is no longer approvable for Centurion. Here are the highlights for ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, HWT and ESB. Blue is EIB and Red is Centurion. Thermal detonator belt clips must be positioned near the end caps with a approximate 1/8" (3 mm) gap. Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes). (not ESB) Ab plate buttons must be integrated and painted directly on the plate, no separate buttons are allowed. Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. AM chest plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. AM back plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Drop boxes must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed. Thigh ammo belt must be attached to thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Standard pop rivets are not allowed Thighs must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Lower legs must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Biceps must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Forearms must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. For ROTJ, INC, TKC, SKY: Thighs must use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not allowed. Biceps must use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not allowed. Lower legs must be constructed using the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not allowed. Here are the actual changes in detail: Special Notes: All FX armor may not be used for Centurion level 3. Helmet ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death & HWT Previous wording: Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes) New change: Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes). Thermal Detonator ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, and ESB: Previous wording: N/A New change: Thermal detonator belt clips must be positioned near the end caps with a approximate 1/8" (3 mm) gap. Lower Legs ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, HWT, ROTJ, and ESB: Previous wording: N/A New change: Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, HWT and ESB: Previous wording: Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave. New change: Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, HWT and ESB: Previous wording: N/A New change: Lower legs must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. ROTJ, INC, TKC, SKY: Previous wording: N/A New change: Lower legs must be constructed using the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not allowed. Chest ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, HWT and ESB: Previous wording: N/A New change: AM chest plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. Back ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, HWT and ESB: Previous wording: N/A New change: AM back plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. Ab plate: ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, HWT, Death, ROTJ, and ESB: Previous wording: N/A New change: Ab plate buttons must be integrated and painted directly on the plate, no separate buttons are allowed. ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, HWT, Death & ESB: Previous wording: Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets, the heads should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note:For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet. New change: Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Belt ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, and ESB: Previous wording: N/A New change: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Previous wording: Drop boxes are closed in the back. New change: Drop boxes must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed. Kidney ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, HWT and ESB: Previous wording: Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note: For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet. New change: Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Thighs ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, HWT and ESB: Previous wording: The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only Ć¢ā‚¬ā€œ but not by standard rivets. New change: Thigh ammo belt must be attached to thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Standard pop rivets are not allowed ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, HWT and ESB: Previous wording: N/A New change: Thighs must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. ROTJ, INC, TKC, SKY: Previous wording: N/A New change: Thighs must use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not allowed. Biceps ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, HWT and ESB: Previous wording: N/A New change: Biceps must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. ROTJ, INC, TKC, SKY: Previous wording: N/A New change: Biceps must use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not allowed. Forearms ANH Stunt, ANH Hero, Death, HWT and ESB: Previous wording: N/A New change: Forearms must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. ROTJ, INC, TKC, SKY: Previous wording: N/A New change: Forearms must use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not allowed.
  8. Good stuff Paul. Thanks. -Eric
  9. Nick, I have absolutely nothing to say for EIB. You've got a great looking Hero. Approved. Congrats trooper! We don't have a way to award for 2 centurions in your profile but if you apply I'll likely approve it right away. -Eric
  10. Evan, Nice work on the helmet... that must have been a real pain the an impolite person! Germain is right. Please trim your forearm return edge on the wrist side of the part. Also... can I see photos of your thigh pack from the sides? Almost there bro. Thanks for your diligence. -Eric
  11. Thanks for fixing your side gaps and taking new photos. Approved! Congratulations trooper! -Eric
  12. Congrats trooper -Eric
  13. Probably not an issue for EIB. If a color mismatch is really noticeable it might get flagged for Centurion. -Eric
  14. Marc, Approved! If you want to you can trim the knee pack length a little and reshape the curve some but it won't stop you from going Centurion. I'm not going to ask you to put a scuff or two on your boots because I am going to take that out of the CRL in the next few days. Congrats trooper. -Eric
  15. A seam is allowed for Centurion. I wouldn't worry about your shims for now. I also wouldn't worry about the belt location. Yes the TKs in ANH had their belt going around the kidney but I think its acceptable to have it go where you have it, across the seam of the butt and kidney. Here is a photo of the cover strips on the back of a screen used thigh: Thanks! -Eric
  16. Evan, Whew. Sorry it took me so long to get to your application. This is yet another great looking RS kit. Have no fear, I'm not going to nitpick your return edges. Here are my comments: Can I see a closeup of the return edge on your forearms? This is a bit of a recurring theme this week but your knee pack belt has some extra material above and below the boxes. If you have your knee pack off the thigh to trim it please make sure the rivet goes through the center of the ridge on the bottom of the thigh. The rivet is well placed on the belt itself. I'm afraid that the gap under the brow should be fixed. I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I've had good success taking rivets out with a dremel cutting wheel. Here is my one suggestion having nothing to do with Centurion approval. It looks like the crotch rivet is too far from the end of the crotch. If you're into it I suggest moving it. It won't stop you from going Centurion and no one will ever ever see it. But if lots of people see it on a regular basis... you're attending all the right troops. Here's the famous lucasfilm archive photo of said rivets: Thanks for your patience, -Eric
  17. Okay... I've been waiting for a quiet moment to comment. Finally I think I have a few moments. Apologies to Isaac as I kept telling him that I'd do it and then flake. When I was elected DL it almost felt like I was the poster child for troopers who aren't screen accurately sized. I'm ok with it because I really am a Vader sized TK. At the same time as I was growing into this role as larger trooper advocate we started to see a marked increase in RS props EIBs alongside the already prolific TM. It has to be said that we have all grown too accustomed to seeing these EIB and Centurion applications. If you wear any other type of armor or if you're larger than the average TK your eye tends to find fault in things the wearer cannot help due to their size or armor type. I'm here to say that there is room on FISD for other types of armor and other body types, in spite of what it seems like sometimes. With that said... here are my comments. About the side shims.... this is always a tough thing to have an opinion about. These look a little rough around the edges. The CRL states that a seam is ok but it doesn't go into much else about them. I think side shims should be close to the color of the ABS of your armor and look as much an extension of the armor as possible. That means the tops and bottoms should line up and follow the same lines as the armor. There is also a fair amount of goop of some kind on your shims. I would say that the shims need some love before being approved for Centurion. On a positive note the backs of your thighs look way better than the V shaped shim of your other thighs. For a Centurion app I'd like to see close up higher res less blurry photos of the backs of your thighs. Do you know how big the heads of your side rivets are? They look a bit big. I think they should be around 8mm. (someone correct me if I'm wrong) The lines in your tears are a little thick for my liking. The drop boxes should be moved out toward the end of the belt so the sides line up with the ends of the plastic belt. They should also come up a bit (from what I can tell in the photos) so they're either right up against the belt or 1/8" or so gap. I wouldn't stop you from going Centurion with your holster placement but it looks a little far away from the plastic belt. I had that problem before I ended up buying a new belt. It may be the light but your handguards look really yellow colored. Are they? Do you have the thin elastic holding down the shoulder bridges to the back? I can't tell from the photos. It's been the week of ab button silliness... so I would probably ask for a closeup high quality photo of your ab buttons to check the color. Are the cover strips on the back of your shins wide because you need more room in your shins for your calves? That's all I have more or less off the top of my head. There may be more later. I hope some of the more accuranazi minded folks will comment. Mathias? -Eric
  18. Thanks for understanding Tim! And thanks to Mathias for picking up my slack. He's right about the need to trim a little more of the knee belt. -Eric
  19. Nicely done trooper. That's exactly the right attitude that makes me proud to be part of FISD. -Eric
  20. Yikes. Is that screen capture from a Rebels cartoon scout? -Eric
  21. Tim, Thanks for making the review process easy. I wish everyone's photos were are clear as yours are. It's a nice clean build and an easy pass for Expert Infantry. Congrats! I have just one suggestion before you apply for EIB.... which seems to be a recurring theme this week. Centurion Suggestions Your knee pack should be moved. This is something I did when I built my TK and ended up fixing after a wrestling match with the knee belt. The rivet is in the right place but it should go through the ridge on the bottom of the thigh, not into the thigh itself. Here is your thigh: Check out this gallery of screen shots and screen used armor to see where to place it: Please let me know if you have any questions about the knee pack. Congrats again! -Eric
  22. Marc, I have nothing to say for your EIB app. In fact I have no Centurion suggestions either. Does anyone else have anything to add before he applies for Centurion? Congrats trooper! -Eric
  23. Everyone: If you have an issue with a staff member or have anything to say in an EIB thread that isn't either positive or directly related to the person's application please create a new thread for discussion. That includes the interpretation and contents of the TK CRLs. Troy, I would have passed you with the "wrong" ab color. There is nothing in the CRL that dictates which particular shade of blue you should use. Not passing someone with the wrong shade of blue on their ab buttons is way too nitpicky and goes against the spirit of the EIB program. It is coming clear to me that there are solid reasons why people call FISD folks elitists. More importantly the Billagram featured in the FISD tutorial we have on our website still lists midnight blue as a viable option. You've got a nice looking TK and you should be proud of it. You're approved. Centurion Suggestions Honestly I can't tell what color your ab buttons are right now. It's really really hard to tell in the photographs. If they really are the right color maybe you can take the can and spill a little on some ABS and photograph your ab plate, the can, and the smudge. Worst case I'll send you my can of Humbrol french blue if you PM me your mailing address here or on Suckbook. I suggest moving the cap rivet on your knee pack up into the corner of the belt and scooting the whole knee back down a bit. Here are some reference shots to see what I mean: If you have your knee pack off the thigh you might want to trim a little bit off the top and bottom closer to the boxes. It's a minor thing but would improve the look (Thanks Mathias) Congrats trooper. Now go help the rest of your EP!C nerds apply for EIB. -Eric
  24. Brian, That's a great looking TM you've got there. Here are my comments... CRL Related The CRL is very specific about side gaps. Is there a way you can adjust your elastic to split the difference between side gaps? Here is the wording in question from the CRL: Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed . Other - Fit and Assembly Nothing to add for EIB. Centurion Suggestions If possible I suggest fiddling with your strapping to stop the butt plate from overlapping the kidney. Or just if/when you retake the photos your photographer ensures they're more lined up. The back plate is a little far from the kidney but you see that on screen and not really an issue. Thanks! -Eric
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