So... Ingrid sent me some words. I'm posting them here to start the discussion that will eventually lead us to showing the LMO a draft.
There is no deadline for this but I'm hoping to not take too long.
The biggest question that we should start talking about is... How shiny should she be? Ingrid asserts (and I agree with her) that Phasma is mirror shiny. That puts rattle can automotive chrome out of the running as it does not reflect enough to be mirror-like. The environment should be seen in the armor.
I doubt there will be a L2 for this costume any time soon so the idea of letting L1 be the not shiny grey and L2 be super shiny won't work any time soon. L2 to me should be done once the bluray comes out and we can nerd out over the details during her all too brief amount of screen time.
There may be too many words (especially the very specific cape) and detail for an actual CRL below. I am more of a "make it look like the picture" (as our LMO likes to say) guy using fewer words and better photos.
What we have here is her writing what she sees. How much of it goes into the CRL is why this thread exists.
Ingrid has a bunch of reference photos that I will post (as her) and let her annotate when she can.
Helmet is reflective chrome or silver in color.
The helmet bottom flares outward rather than curving underneath like the FO TK helmet.
The top of the helmet contains a raised Mohawk ridge approximately 3-4” wide that runs from brow to the base of the back. On either side of this Mohawk are three grooves delineating three stripes approximately ½ - 5/8”. The outermost strip angles back over the ear bumps.
There is a roughly ¼-3/8” indent around the borders of the bottom ridge, face, and nose plate.
Kenses are black or smoke bubble lenses.
The gap between the nose piece and main part of the helmet is flat black with a hexagonal mesh texture.
No aerator is present.
The cape is black and crosses the chest diagonally from the right shoulder to the left, wrapping around the back and connecting again to the right shoulder.
A 1.5-2 inch-wide strap, approximately 12-15 inches long, drapes over the right shoulder from the front over the shoulder to the back.
[Clasp/connector is unknown at this time; so far, nothing is visible. Perhaps wording should indicate that there is no visible clasp or buckle.]
The cape gathers somewhat between the left shoulder and the neck.
All seams except the front red seam are two parallel straight-stitches, 3/8” apart, including pockets, hem, and the borders of the straps.
The front seam across the chest is two parallel straight stitches, 1” apart.
A 1-inch (2.5cm) red stripe is painted along the entire front seam on the top/visible side only, within the parallel stitches.
The left side of the cape drapes across the left shoulder, yoke, and chest, down to the left elbow. It extends to the ground with approximately 3” of drag.
The cape is in 3 panels: a trapezoidal back panel with seams on either side of the back plate, connecting the longer left and folded right panels. [Note: a 4th panel joining two pieces of the right panel into one may be present. The purpose of this would be to increase the number of folds on the right side.]
The left panel contains two 1-1.5” fabric straps, approximately12-18 inches long, from the inner seam to the outside; one is located at hand-level when the arm is extended, and the second is 4” below it.
The left panel contains four pockets which are not identical in size; the top pocket overlaps the seam to the back panel; below it are two middle pockets of approximately the same size, but mis-aligned by about ½ inch and spaced about 1 inch apart; the bottom of these two pockets are at elbow level; the fourth pocket is slightly narrower than the other three and is somewhat aligned between and below the two middle pockets.
A 1-1.5” strap, approximately 10-12” long, extends from the lower portion of the fourth/lower pocket toward the front of the cape.
The hem of the cape tapers upward from the bottom left (ground) at an approximate 30-degree angle, to the right calf just below the back of the knee.
The right side of the cape is gathered in 4-5 folds that hang just over or behind the right shoulder, exposing the shoulder bell and bicep but completely covering the back plate.
The cape material is a soft cotton canvas with diagonal weave pattern appearing after treatment. The outside of the cape is coated with a rubberized coating (similar to a rubberized picnic blanket), including the pockets and left straps.
[More than any other part of this costume, the chest plate should be as mirror-reflective as possible in the front. Some battle damage is acceptable, but it should reflect the scene around it.]
Gloves are solid black leather or leather-like material.
Extend underneath the forearm.
Main handplates are rigid square boxes and the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove.
The black oval detail is aligned with the index finger of each hand.
A second handplate between the forearm and main handplate is approximately half the size, somewhat trapezoidal in shape, and contoured to match the contours of the main handplate.
Both handplate pieces are reflective chrome or silver in color.
C3PO-style finger armor is rigid and segmented in two pieces per finger, worn over the glove.
The upper finger has two teardrop-shaped humps on the top, and a wedge opening (or the appearance of a wedge opening) in the joint on the bottom.
The finger tips has one teardrop-shaped hump on the top, no segments, and a circular, fully enclosed end cap.
The lengths and widths of the finger pieces are proportionate to the wearer’s fingers.
The finger pieces are reflective chrome or silver in color.
The cod is a triangular, rigid, contoured piece, rounded at the bottom, with two rectangular indents on either side near the top.
Belt (DA note: obviously the actual FO TK wording with modification needs to go here but I'm rushing to get this up... and the wine is working on me)
• The belt matches the FO TK belt except where white, the parts are reflective chrome or silver in color.
• Unlike the FO TK belts, the front fabric pouch is covered by an additional hard, chrome or silver box cover that is approximately half the size of the rear fabric pouch cover.
Knee plates are worn upside down in relation to FO TK armor.
Lower shin armor is contoured upward in the center, with a square-beveled ridge visible along the top, right, and left sides.
The bottom of the armor is rounded over the top of the boot, extending to points on either side.
The armor is reflective chrome or silver in color.
This armor is worn over the lower half of the main shin armor.
Lower calf armor is rigid, curved at the bottom over the heel plate, and extending to points to match the lower shin armor on both sides.
The armor is reflective chrome or silver in color.
The calf and lower shin armor are connected on the inside by a mylar or sliverized tape.
A shallow, rigid toe piece covers the toe and top of the boot. It is contoured to the shape of the boot, with a curved end at the ankle and extending downward into points.
An oval-shaped instep piece is worn over the foot and lower calf armor.
A curved, rounded heel piece covers the heel of the boot.
These pieces are all reflective chrome or silver in color.
Plain suede, leather, or leather-like black or dark gray boots are acceptable.
The toe is round with a slight point.
The heel and sole are plain black and proportionate to non-feminized boots. [in other words, high-heeled women’s-style boots are not acceptable.]
The blaster matches the FO TK blaster with these exceptions.
The white is covered by a slightly gold-tinted chrome color. [Not 3PO gold]
The blaster contains a butt-stock.
The trigger guard is removed.
The thermal detonator, back plate, and posterior armor will not be visible under the cape if worn correctly, and will not likely be visible for submission photos to the GML.
Chrome spray paint should not be allowed. It is too dull and does not have the correct mirror-reflective properties of silvering and metalizing systems. If there is a away to ensure the chrome/silver appearance has “reflective” properties and not just “shiny” that would be great.
Boots: Her original boots are suede jodhpur style boots but because most members will be adding internal lifts to achieve height, alternate boots should be acceptable for ankle support, and to allow for longer reach in the leg and foot armor. Some room for platform soles should also be provided.
Let the nitpicking begin!