Locitus

The thighs are best held up with a belt around your waist that you wear over your undersuit.

Also make sure to get an elastic across the bottom of the shoulder bell if you haven't already. It will keep it from flapping around.

I recommend strapping chest together with the back (over the shoulders) and the rest of it together and let it hang on you shoulders as 1 piece.

The return edge at the bottom of the chest is on the large side. Half would be enough. And you should replace the bottom ear screws and paint them. But other than that I don't have any comments for this level. Approved!

Sorry but a non-modded FX chest and back is not approvable for Centurion.

+1 on the reed switch. If you're going to do it, do it in a way that doesn't show from the outside.

Read this thread, some of the questions you have are already answered in it. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19914 Also, please don't post a new thread in the How To section after I had already moved your previous thread on the same subject to the appropriate section.

If my blaster would fall I'm pretty sure it would survive. It's made from aluminium and steel. But like I said, I generally don't let kids handle it. They can touch it, but not hold it themselves.

Your pictures are a little washed out because of the sunlight so it's hard to spot the more discrete details, but for centurion I'd suggest moving the detonator clips even further towards the end caps. But you're not far from centurion at all!

TM is also pretty smooth.

Excellent I think you'll be pleased with the extra effort once it's all said and done.

Looking good trooper! I don't have anything to comment on really. You've done a great job on the AP and taken it pretty much as far as it will go. Approved!

Sweet!

I would not recommend that helmet. There are a lot better alternatives for only a little more money.

Could be great, but information is sparse as it's not been released yet. Only certain thing is that it will be expensive and hard to get as it'll be a limited edition. There are several helmet makers that offer finished helmets at an additional fee. Just ask them.

Stunt helmets have 3 screws in the ear, hero has 2. You can fix the teeth by filling in the area where the extra teeth are before you trim them. But if you do this you'll need to paint the helmet to cover the filler.

I generally don't let kids hold my blaster with the excuse that kids shouldn't play with guns.

A good soldier never lets go of his weapon.

Don't use pop rivets. Use elastic. Make the armour slim fitting. If the detonator pipe is black, paint it grey. Yes you can use humbrol. But spray would be neater. Or you can upgrade the detonator kit to a more accurate size and natively grey pipe. Ideally the split rivets should be brass and painted white. The AP helmet can be reworked into a hero, but technically it isn't a hero and will never look as good as one intended to be a hero. Talk to TM for the best hero helmet available. The mp3 loop you're referring to is available to 501st members on the main forums once you have been approved.

The thread is pinned so it should be at the top of the page.

Beautiful!

By posting in the pinned thread dedicated to the purpose. You find it in the "Gettin started" area.

Well, it could be worse about the buttons. But if you're considering centurion at a later date I would recommend that you loose the buttons and paint them instead.

I'm just talking too much.

I know that, but it's not that hard. I'd imagine it's more effort to get the buttons right than to slap on some paint. And I was curious to see if there was any other reason.