Locitus

Seeing how the doopy parts are cast from real sterling parts, I fail to see how they could look less realistic?

I'd say that the rear cap and front nozzle would be top priority. But if you have more doopy parts then I wouldn't mind if you used all of them.

You won't be sorry. The PVC kit is very nice. I built one for a garrison mate a few weeks ago. Just remember that even when it's made to measure, some parts are nearly impossible to predict and you may need to do some final adjustments yourself for the perfect fit.

If you have any doopy resin parts I'd suggest replacing what you have with those, or otherwise spend more time scratch building to get the shapes right.

Yes, the belt looks better now.

The drop boxes are correct in relation to the cardboard cutout, but the belt itself is too long, a flaw in the RT kit. So as a compromise I'm suggesting that you move them. The drop boxes are on all original belts positioned at the end of the belt to help cover the black area that appears between the thigh and butt plate. The most noticeable parts of your blaster I feel needs adjustment is the front nozzle, end cap, folding stock (front part) and front sight.

Instead of buying a recast and then spending a ton of time sharpening it somehow with bondo and fiberglass, can't you just buy a kit from our vetted vendors? http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11538 Then you just need to assemble your kit and be done with it.

Lean and clean build. Very nice! Before submitting for centurion, I would recommend that the knee belt rivet is moved to the top corner rather than middle as it sits now, and that the drop boxes are moved to the outer edge of the belt, and consider using cover strips for your arm and leg assembly. You may need to have a closer look at your blaster. Which while an impressive scratch build, as it is now, is a bit too far off from perfect. I understand that Australia and New Zealand have quite strict gun laws, but a doopydoo kit should be fine, no? With that said, this is an easy approval for EIB.

Use the image tags like you would in a forum post.

Nice

And only the back half of the rear sight has the serrated edge:

Same goes for the T-track. Although in an idealistic way they would have to be metal to act as cooling fins. Plastic doesn't transfer heat very well.

Looks good! Although technically the grip cannot have any worn metal weathering since the sterling grips are plastic.

Looking good so far.

The original rail is really thin. Use whatever works for you and isn't blatantly thick.

Yeah that's right.

I had already been working on it for a while. The list of amendments is straight copy/paste.

And now you can make your voice heard in the discussion pre-vote thread I created. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21100

Perhaps, but it's nothing compared to other detachments.

Comparison pictures taken by our Danish member Morten: Hasbro: Full resin kit

You should keep the full resin kit yourself, and lend out the hasbro to kids if you're going to have to kits.

Despite the flaws of AM, it's still an in improvement over FX. But the chest and back should be replaced either way.

Both are EIB eligible, but the hasbro is not centurion eligible. They cost almost the same in total. But the full resin kit is 5x prettier.

No, don't get the hasbro!

Not that I know of. Maybe you can email the photographer.