gazmosis

Breathtaking!

the Dremmel will work well for that. I have a band saw so makes short work of stuff like that. Just make sure you cut it to the right size. Be careful on bending those TD clips. Usually, I recommend bending them prior to drilling any of the holes because the holes create a weak spot that might make it crease in those locations. Take it slow and support it if you can with clamps perhaps.

3/8 inch + or- a tad. I wouldn't go over 1/2"

Nice recovery on that rear trap!!! If I was to nit pick, (and I looked through my reference pics before I did) None of the TK helmets that I have seen have the traps painted with such sharp corners at the top. I would knock those down a little. Other than that, nice work on everything!! You nailed those ears!

Of the armors that are supported here, only the NE and RT mod helmets are the three piece design. RT mod's is much nicer IMHO.

That is a quote from the NE maker himself. The lineage of their molds is known but this is NOT a thread about recasting. Their service is great, their shipping is fast, the quality of their armor is great. All at a good price. The helmet still needs some attention but overall the armor has been well excepted.

Make sure you get the setting tool that matches your snap size. Line 24 snaps need a line 24 setting tool! When setting, don't hit the crap out of it you may very well knock the post sideways rather than mushrooming it gently downward. Stiff taps are all you will need

More progress...YAY!!!!! Anyhoo..........I trimmed up the underside return edges on the shoulders. After looking at what seemed a thousand screen grabs, I trimmed up the edges as well. These may look HUGE but the camera likes to make these look bigger than they really are.I can now finally glue something!!!!!!! But I need to trim it out first...the ab button plates.The small plate was straight forward. The middle plate, however, needed to be trimmed to match the slight curved contour of the ab plate itself. Button plates after trimming is done.A little glue, tape and 24 hours and I am happy with it!. I will save painting the buttons until almost last. Too much still to do with the ab sectionPics may be slightly out of order. I will report back upon more progress

very, VERY nice work! Innovative and thoughtful approach to everything!!! Well done!!!

Go ahead and remove it. I have looked at many shots screen grabs and return edges on the elbow portion of the forearms wasn;t obvious. In fact, I would think that any return edge on the half that sits on the inside of your forearm would be uncomfortable.

Drool!!!

Once cured it is very durable. I'm not saying that you could roll around on concrete and not get a mark but general trooping it holds up well

Just asking.....are you doing this because you want to? I would use elastic either on snaps or since you are hiding this with the belt, you could ever use pop rivets and washers

There is no problem with painting other than the process is long, tedious and takes a lot of patience!!!! This process CANNOT be rushed in ANY way. The main paint that is most commonly used is Rustolium Professional Gloss White. It is in a tall, silver can available at any home center. The primer most commonly used is anything designed for plastic in white. The material are only half the concern. IT'S THE PREP AND THE PATIENCE!!! Many guys who have painted their armor, have washed and scrubbed each piece with a green, kitchen scrubby pad and a mild detergent or with a non greasy degreaser like goof off. This will both knock the gloss off the ABS and de-grease the surface to ensure adhesion. Then comes the primer. One or two coats is fine. NO DRIPS!!!!! If you use two coats, APPLY IT RIGHT AWAY!!!!!! DO NOT WAIT! Then comes the wait. This is critical!!!! Paint dries from the outside in. You NEED TO ALLOW IT TO CURE FULLY AND ADHERE TO THE PARTS. If you rush it or, God forbid, follow the can directions and coat in 24 hours, you will have disastrous results. The paint will lift and crinkle forcing you to strip all parts and start over. I have always allowed AT LEAST 7-10 days before top coating with the gloss white. When this day comes, make sure you have enough paint. Depending on how many coats you apply, 3 cans will safely get you two coats. Painting the top coats needs to be done all at once. Make sure you are prepared with all your parts spread out and supported where they can dry without being touched or touching any surface. DO NOT PAINT ON A WINDY DAY!!!! DO NOT PAINT AT NIGHT WITH A LIGHT. your white armor becomes an attractant for EVERY bug in your area to land on. Ideally, you should paint in temps of about 65-80. If you are painting your armor prior to assembly, You will have in the neighborhood of 30 parts to paint. In higher temps, the paint will dry quickly so you want to break up your parts into three separate groups so you can get all coats applied before the starting coats dry too much. Two to three coats minimum on all parts. I hate to sound "Debbie Downer" repetitive, but I have made these mistakes already!!! ALL COATS MUST BE APPLIED AT ONE TIME. Don't even think that you can come back and re-coat it "later" or after 48 hours. It will lift and crinkle!!!! After your paint is applied, now you wait. at least another 7 days for proper curing. Don't worry if you don't have a mirror gloss on all your parts. If your armor is destined to be a sandy....you're already golden. If you want "Death Star" ready, you can polish out the dull spots with an automotive compound and a damp cloth. Auto paint compounds are like sandpaper for paint just at a microscopic level. You WILL remove some paint in doing this ergo your need for several coats and the proper drying time. Don't rub too hard especially on the high spots and edges!! A mirror finish can be achieved here!!! Finish with an auto polish for protection.

How did that happen? Were you playing goalie at a hockey game??????

I can't wait til I have the pleasure of working with TM armor. Yours looks incredible. The only thing I noticed is that you might have your tube stripes on backwards. It looks like you used the hand painted templates. The last tubes strip towards the front of the helmet is supposed to bend outward. You have it bending inward. Although Trooperbay doesn't mark the stripes (or templates) left and right, he has them on the sheet positioned per the side they go to. (IF YOU USED TROOPERBAY"S TEMPLATES)

PICS HERE HELP A LOT!

Watch hot glue if you are using it on anything really thin like the inside of the helmet cap. Apply it to the foam and wait 10 seconds or so for it to cool just a bit. If the glue is too hot it could melt the plastic on thinner areas

The template material must be new vinyl. The ones I have won't stick no matter what you do. AWESOME JOB. They look like decals!!!!!! Nice work!

Nice work on the construction. Ears can be tough and you did a good job! I would tighten up that left side ear (as you are looing at the helmet) and draw it in closer to the helmet. As for the paint details, I am thinking that the tube stripes might be a little big. They seem to be positioned the correct distance from the face, they just seem a bit big. And the vocoder between the mice tips needs to look like black tubes pressed closely together. Yours looks like a black shape. Here is an example of what I mean.--------------Also take a look at the costume photo reference page on this sight.http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/46-helmet-details/

Boy there is so much not to like about that uniquecanes blaster! Totally not worth the $$$$$$$$$ if you want accurate

The brow trim doesn't need to be glued Nor does the neck trim. Hopefully, you have replaced the neck trim with "S" trim. As you apply the trim to the helmet, make sure you really press the trim so it seats completely. Do this all the way around making sure it is completely seated. When you cut it to size, leave at least 3/8 inch overlap. Compress the trim forward on both sides of the helmet until the overlap fits together. This compression creates the outward pressure that will hold your trim in place with no glue needed

With the talents that you have I painting, I would not use an airbrush for this. I have had a great deal of success using the templates by just placing them correctly and marking them with a pencil then painting them. It takes a little time and patience but the look is great!!! Not pristine.....but hand painted. By the way, the markings on the mic tips make no difference where they are. They won't be seen once installed

One of the nicer ones I have ever seen!!!

WELL DONE SO FAR!!!!! You nailed that ear!