gazmosis

Hey Wade: I thought we lost ya! I am sure you were out "wowing" people with your armor. Anyway, It is appreciated that you had the willingness to work with us on this and trim out that 4th tooth. I am very curious as to why you switched to a completely different blaster?? The original blaster you displayed in your application was a doopy build(or something very close to it) that had all the bells and whistles for the exception of a charging handle and a scope rail that was too high. Both of which are easy fixes and with those fixes would bring you into Centurion land. The blaster you posted on your update photos is (pardon me for saying) weak in detail and because of the missing t-track on the right side I still cannot pass you into EIB. I know this may sound a little harsh, but if I was to list all the things that would prevent you from achieving Centurion with this blaster, it would borderline on cruel. The fixes on your original blaster are easy and would pass you not only for EIB, but would work for Centurion as well. Please consider also, looking into raising up your forearms either with foam inserts or straps between your forearms and biceps. I want to see you with these badges! Please do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.

You could just get another helmet and a different belt/holster. That way you can interchange film armors to carry the DLT without being razzed.

Why does the receiver look curved? Really cool dude

DLT-19 only apply to ANH TK's. Like Brandon said, you can carry whatever weapon you want on troops, but as for applying for EIB or Centurion, your ESB armor must leave its DLT-19 in the weapons locker.

Nice work on that stock, son! Outstanding!

Research research research!!!

The fact that you used model enamels is your savior. This paint will come off using standard paint thinner (mineral spirits based) without harming the surrounding plastic. You can either start from scratch, or trace the proper size onto the button, dip a brush into thinner, dab off the excess and massage the paint you are removing until it comes off. Use the brush to outline a new circle. I know the buttons on the RT Mod plate are molded big. All are different. ATA are bigger than TM...RT are bigger than ATA. At 14 mm, they start to look cartoonish. Just in case you want to look into it, your therm det clips are pretty thick. The correct thickness and width of aluminum strip is available at your local Lowes. 1 x 1/16 thick

No one does, Ryan. I kid about that last post because it was already mentioned, but I am also dead serious. Knowing your approach takes the worry out of it. Reading others approaches gives you a plan and could save you from a sad and possibly costly mistake. The only dumb question is one not asked.

If I could turn back time! Sing it, Cher!! The pencil shading is brilliant!

A couple things I notice: I would round off the lower corners of your thigh pack on the right thigh a little more. Use the thermal detonator as your tracing guide. Speaking of your therm det, it looks REALLY long. The final length should be 7 1/4 - 7 1/2 inches. Also, your ab buttons look big. These should be in the 10mm range.

Gonna be a little challenging to glue your exterior parts over the paint finish, though

Nice combo of approaches! I think you are he first one ever to paint first!

did anyone mention anything about research and reading build threads?

I know the bolt passes up the front of the ejection port within the pipe under the shield. Is there any way of carefully measuring how far it goes past the port then welding a bit of scrap metal on the inside of the pipe through the ejection port? If you added an inner barrel like Germain asked, you could spot weld something to the bolt end of that so that it would stop in a pre-determined spot. Then cap that off with a thick rubber stop so the bolt doesn;t SLAM into another metal part.

Bed=workbench=bed? someone is in trouble!!!

Good luck!!

Thank you for posting that so quickly, Manny! If ANYONE has a question of whether or not their forearms have return edge, I will have them look at this pic. With that pic, all Centurion aspects of your armor have been verified! Congratulations and welcome to Centurion!

CAP, ATA, and MTK are essentially the same molds. At 5'11", you are thin and will have a lot of room within the parts once constructed. The only disadvantage to the CAP armor is that you will need to paint it unless you plan on doing a Sandtrooper

Hey Manny: for those reading this Centurion application let it be clear that Tehcaveman (Manny) originally had "Han" listed as part of the application in the armor description title. There is a program in the works for recognizing specific troopers that appeared in the film. However, specific troopers (Han hero, Luke hero, Mr. No Stripes, etc...) are not recognized as part of the EIB or Centurion FISD program. Manny became aware of this and had the title changed back to general "hero" as his armor choice. With that out of the way, let's look at your armor, Manny!!! CRL Requirements: Although your armor is gorgeous and looks to meet all requirements, there is one photo that is missing the secure all points are present. Please post a pic so we can be sure your forearms have no return edge at the wrist. Nice work on updating the DLT-19 with the wires around the t-tracks!! Your armor is such a pleasure to look at. Congratulations on such a great build! Please get me that one pic so I can put this through!

Yes it was just a leaf rake. However, some of the fingers are different with different rake makers.

There are three most commonly used: either a snap press or snap pliers. These are both good but are limited to areas that are close to edges. There is also a snap installation kit which is an anvil that the snap sits in and a post that both forms and sets the snap which you need to hammer down. I like this because of its versatility.

I'll be willing to bet it's a "makerofthings" RS suit. That looks like the super cheap styrene he used.

What we have to remember here is that we are a costuming group not necessarily responsible for costume replication. I can and do totally respect the "purists" who want to take their armor down to most accurate paint chip as it appeared on screen. Accuracy on that level makes the entire Legion look better. However, we don't want to start walking the line of being called "armor nazis". There will always be a certain level of give and take when it comes to the points not necessarily stated on the CRL's when it comes to EIB. Centurion gets honed down to much closer standards. I can totally see your point, Ian, but I wouldn't worry too much that things are going to start straying too far off track. It is great to see the super accurate and I admire those who's efforts (and sometimes good fortune) allow them to wear armors like RS and TM. We also want to keep this a fun and interesting hobby.

Hey Soren! Thank you for the follow up on the application photos. To me, all Centurion applications should be an example of "how to do it". Pretty much every aspect of both this application and your armor are both! CRL Requirements: All required application photos submitted. Your armor contains all necessary details for Centurion status. Excellent build. Your Garrison should be proud to have you along side of them! Congratulations!!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: I have nothing to add in regards to your build. But I can suggest a couple things that may save you some grief in the future. First, You elastic is fraying a lot on your inside connections. Heat a nail or something similar over a flame and slowly drag it across the cut end. This will seal the cut preventing further fraying. As for the fraying of your waist belt, you can mix up some all purpose white glue or fabric glue in water and brush it gently brush it over and in between the sewn layers. It will do a lot to seal your belt edges without taking away the look. Welcome to Centurion!

Hail to the beef!!!!