gazmosis

I guess I just don't know what I am doing. It is still too big for my pipe. I re-measured to make sure I have the right one. I do. The pipe is 4.75 inches around. The template when printed is 5 1/2. BBC does make a template for a 1.5 inch pipe. It dowloads as a "type 5" file. My computer doesn't recognize this so I can't print it

WOW!!! Thanks Vern!!! I am trying to reduce this down. I'll figure it out!

Thanks Mathias! I did find 1.5 inch barrel option templates. I dowloaded them and I can't print them for some reason. I must not have the right program.

A long time ago, I downloaded the blaster templates from BBC. I printed out the barrel ones, reduced them a bit so that the holes were the proper size. I cut off the excess and found that they are not even close to fitting the 1 1/2 inch diameter of the pipe I have. When wrapped, it overlaps a full 1/2 inch. Where can I get templates that work for the accurate size pipe?

If you look at the front trooper in the pic above, you can clearly see the raised area on both the forearm and the thighs. Keep in mind, for the film, they built one size of armor and hired similar size actors to fill them. We have a million different body types here. Cutting off the raised area might not be completely accurate, but for the small framed trooper, it just might be an option. We have a girl (Beans) in out Garrison who is a tiny little thing. She just fiished her new AP armor. She made it as small as the raised areas would allow. She still needs to put foam IN her undersuit to fill out the thighs, calves and arms. She gets really hot with all that padding.

I really don't fall into this catagory, but there are more and more ladies buying armor that is designed for guys that are 170 -200 lbs. and the ladies themselves are 110. Most armor has raised areas on the halves like arms and legs. You trim down each half until, when placed together, this raised area is the width of your finishing strip. Now, what if one takes this down to the max (15 MM on arms 20mm on legs) and it is still way too big? Has anyone actually gone past this and removed the raised area all together thus gluing the finishing strip to the flat armor? I know this would take a little custom return work at the tops especially on the thighs, but has it been done? Wow! Is this really post 600???? I need to get out more.

You are on the thin side..........take a little off the sides of both the ab plate and kidney to close up the clamshell. Biceps can be made fairly small. Forearms you will probably need to pad the inside to keep them snug and free from shifting too much. But like Vern said, you want to be comfortable and be able to move in any condition. You will be dancing, gettin' down, jogging, walking long distances, high fiving, squatting (for pics with the little ones) Test fits are a must.

Tru dat!!!!

Way to go!!!! Now go celebrate by giving everyone a set of rubber handplates!!!!!

I wear mine as often as I can...grocery shopping, mowing the lawn, walking the dog, street hockey, "date" nights with the wife......Just kidding! The MWG in Illinois has enough events to troop twice in a weekend, every weekend. Get some info from your CO, XO or GPRO about setting up your own events. This gives everyone in your Garrison a chance to wear their armor more!!!

Holy tubes!!!!! Thank you!!!! Well...I just placed my order and although a price is given per foot, they only sell it by the 8 foot tube. Since I am only building one blaster and one blaster needs about 18 inches...I'm gonna have 4 more blasters worth of pipe. SOOOOOoooooooo..if anyone needs pipe for a blaster, I am willing to strike a deal!!!!!! PM me if interested!

Using doopy doos Kit. I need to work with plastic. Thanks for the info though, Rob

I'm sure I can research it and run around to several stores but I am lazy and want to get my teeth into this build!!! I know the proper pipe is 1.5 inch outside diameter. Regular plumbing PVC won't work because all plumbing measurements are inside diameter. Any hints???

Just an option, Carlos, is that some troopers keep the "twinkie" shape to the teeth openings like you have or with some patience and an exacto knife, make the openings square. If you are going to take alittle more off of the openings, be selective! Several teeth seem fine to me. The top of the faceplate can be trimmed or not. Whether you cut it off or not will not affect the build of the helmet.

A certain degree of mods and custom fitting will come with any kit you buy. Ap has long been noted toward the smaller framed trooper. A larger trooper like me ( 5'10" and 209 lbs.) would never fit into AP. Although I didn't need to shim anything, ATA seems to be very forgiving if one needs a little extra room. Mic tips will need to be painted and partially assembled, with ATA. I always thought that the AP helmet was a little easier to assemble. Just my $.02

Run a goolge image search for m38 scope. Bunch of pics there

I used my finish/cover strip. I knew that was a straight edge. I cut my finishing strips on my table saw. I clamped the finishing strip onto the thigh or shin or forearm; wherever I wanted to make my line, traced the edge, and placed tape along that line to give my eye something to follow when cutting. When the tape was in place, I removed the clamps and cut along the tape line. But like everone else says: score it with utility knife and snap it! Make sure you have a new or VERY sharp blade!

No yoy don't need to prime. I would suggest to rough up any surface you will be painting with a little sandpaper to give the paint a little something to "bite" to. Be careful with the humbrol paints! If you apply them too thick, the paint will crinkle when drying. Keep multiple coats THIN! Keep in mind also, that the drying time is a MINIMUM of 8 hours. Maybe 6 if you leave it out in the sun. You can't be in too much of a hurry! I ended up airbrushing the traps on the back and the temples. I hand brushed the tears but with THIN coats to avoid the crinkling. I had a little bit of crinkling on my frown. That's my $ .02

I am holding up a beer in salute!!!!

What Vern said!!!

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18099 You can find a pattern here. Be aware of the thickness of the leather you use. The last batch of holsters I built had very thick and ridgid leather. Because the leather folds over to create the pocket the blaster sits in, I needed to increase the overall width of the design. Softer, thinner leathers will conform to the blaster .

I saw this and I have my doubts because, having just finished and ATA kit an helping another with their's, ATA does NOT come with inner drop boxes and he includes two sets of ears. Beofre you buy, demand to see a pic of the front of the dome of the helmet. This might be "maker of things" armor which is good for nothing but display. "MOT" uses recast TE2 armor which as the flaws that need to be repaired in the front of the cap-n-back or dome. he folds at the sides of the cheek tubes on the faceplate are raising flags with me. Also, I don't see the control panel for the TD. This is another thing that will tell you if it's ATA or not. MOT uses cut out centers of the ears put in a line so the finished product is not a continuous line of evenly spaced ridges. There are gaps every 4 ridges just like ear bumps put together in a row.

I just did a big...WHEW!!!! Bad decals!!!! Great work so far!!! Can't wait to see you suited up!

I am currently using my MOT armor for a display on my mannie. I bring it to cons to go with the 501st booth. All it's good for really

FX