Leaderboard

Some threads on fitting ears, add a step to the top portion so the rear can sit closer. It's all about fine tuning and sanding, going slow and rechecking.

My name is Kian I am 31 years old and I am from Aurora Colorado, And I was wondering if someone could me with making First Order Stormtrooper Armour.

Good luck!!!!!

Hi Zachary. Thank you for your patience while we worked on your review. There are a few things that we will require before we go ahead with your EIB approval. Hopefully these will be fairly easy fixes for you and we will have your EIB status soon. Working our way down from the helmet, here are the corrections that we are requesting. Please feel free to reach out if you have any questions. Helmet We are going to need you to do some touch ups on the paint on your vocoder. We would like to see a uniform black area with no clumping of paint and no white showing through. A few minutes of light sanding and some new paint will make a huge difference to the overall look of this focal piece of the costume. References Chest Armour The bottom corners of your chest armour are flaring out somewhat and should sit tighter to the abdominal plate. This should be a fairly simple fix with minor reshaping with a hot water bath. References Abdomen We are going to need you to do some touching up of the paint on the Ab buttons. Several of the buttons are painted too small. In addition, the paint appears "lumpy" Several thin coats will look better than very thick and clumpy coats. References Thermal Detonator The control panel on the thermal detonator should be facing backwards. This can be corrected by carefully opening the curve on the bottom of the clips to allow the thermal detonator to roll downward and thereby positioning the control panel so that it faces backwards. CRL L1: The white control panel raised ribbed pad faces the rear, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. Lower Leg Armour Your Sniper knee plate is positioned perfectly on the inner side of the shin armour but is sitting below the shin ridge on the outer aspect. CRL L2: Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. References General Fit and strapping There are a few areas that we would like to see adjusted for your Expert Infantry approval. 1. Your belt that is being used to hold up the thigh armour is a bit too obvious with the 2 large loops being present. Some adjustments to the belt system will be needed to have it sit a bit higher and hide underneath the abdominal armour plate. 2. The overall positioning of your chest armour is a bit crooked. Some modifications to the strapping, or care when dressing to ensure everything lining up is recommended. 3. Your shoulder straps are not symmetrical in positioning over the tabs on the back plate. This may simply be caused by the chest piece being crooked, or may require slight adjustment to the position in which they are attached to the chest piece.

That's what I think too, regarding the shins and thighs! Btw if you're buying a R1 kit anyways, might as well use the biceps and forearms too if you're not using them for anything else, just throwing it out there!

First things first: HUGE props to Walt at WTF. I purchased a replacement chest and back piece from him as the ones I had received when I purchased this kit second hand were too small. He had a different batch lot of plastic which was slightly more subdued of a white than the rest of my existing kit. He found and sent me replacements that were brighter but still a bit off. This is being fixed in the paint thread. Now for the reason of this post: As you can see the chest piece still sits a bit high and doesn't overlap the abdomen piece. The shoulder straps will be moved up higher on the chest as well to better overlap the back piece. The adjustments are all 1.5" velcro with the exception of .75" velcro joining the chest/abs and back/kidney pieces top to bottom. Are there some adjustment tips you all can throw my way or am I going to have to try and make an elaborate extension piece for the entire lower part of the chest piece?

Extra important in this research is to not use the Hot Toys figure as your primary reference, try to use the screen grabs primarily - and try to verify anything you find against the Hot Toy if anything just to give yourself more confidence in the findings

Chest armor, backplate, shoulders are larger and squarer on the bottom. Research is the key with this one, as the CRL is not finished it's up to you to match what references there are. Here is the current CRL thread

If I were to create an Enoch, I would buy a ROTK to base it on, to get the dimensions right! The shins, thighs, biceps, forearms and the AB is hard to say that it isn't parts directly from a ROTK, and one of the things I've felt most of the time when I see builds is that the way the AB is being printed is off in the dimensions, the buttons on the AB seem too large, and the bottom edge of the AB usually ends too far up above the belt (or it just looks obvious like that because the printed dimentions are a bit too large, leading to when you tighten the belt around your waist, your waist looks much smaller than the AB itself). I think that it's just the normal ROTK armor that they've gone for there (AB), and cut it so that the belt tightens on or near the bottom edge of the AB and not completely below it. On screen grabs I find it hard to say for certain that the AB would end above the belt. The shoulders look a bit wider than the normal ROTK and seem to have a different curve The chest as you say and know about is most likely not a direct child of the ROTK chest.

Quite a bit got finished on the helmet this time around. I fixed both the back piece and the weathering under the right eye. I added more weathering to the yellow, as well as added small dirt/debris marks here and there on the white I fixed the white inside on the mic tips, added the neck seal (I used some truck edge seal stuff found in 11b30b4's black series build). I also darkened the lenses by cutting and putting a welding visor behind the green lenses. I also figured I should add a before and after picture as well to better show some of the changes made.

As promised here is the color code. It is using PPG automotive paints. Since it is a custom color the shop stored the formula as: PPG JBPXA MIX-501ST STORMTROOPER WHITE The paint came pre-loaded into a rattle can for easier application.

File-Name: Star Wars Day – Coaster Designer: Drakul Last Update: 03/05/2025 File-URL: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1378445-star-wars-day-coaster-may-the-4th-edition#profileId-1426377 Description: Celebrate Star Wars Day with this bold and stylish coaster design. Featuring the iconic phrase “May the 4th Be With You” in a clean black-and-white layout with a dynamic hyperspace-inspired background, this coaster makes a perfect tribute to the galaxy far, far away. Designed for fans who appreciate clean design and timeless quotes, this piece is great for your home, workspace, or as a unique gift. Terms of Use: https://makerworld.com/en/user-agreement Images:

File-Name: Aurebesh Alphabet Stencil Designer: Rogue9 Last Update: 27/05/24 File-URL: https://www.printables.com/model/893022-aurebesh-alphabet-stencil/files Description: Stencil your message to friends in Basic; the alphabet of Star Wars. 0.2mm layer height. Modify gcode to swap filaments at layer 6 if desired. No brim or mouse-ears required. I’d definitely turn ironing on for the top layer. Terms of Use: https://makerworld.com/en/user-agreement Images:

Nothing quite like opening up a big box of fresh plastic! Looking forward to your build, sir!

ALRIGHTY THEN! After my long week at my cottage I was finally able to go through my big brown box and enjoy pulling everything in it out. I still need to get some supplies but I might as well start trimming and do what I can while I wait for things, still need to read all of AJ Hamler's TK Build as well. Here's some pictures though! so that's pretty neat