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Here are the pictures of the black series IAC (ahead of the official release ) , overall quality is pretty good, but typical to black series, the colors and painting are not perfect. A few places are missing colors (like the thigh plates red bars, the jetpack details,...) and flightsuit has a weird greenish grey color and the medium grey armor color and ab is more of a light grey.

We can hope, but they're releasing the baton, riot shield, and jet pack with IG-12 ... https://www.sideshow.com/collectibles/star-wars-ig-12-hot-toys-912464?var=9124642

Thank you for sharing Francois, hopefully they'll release a Hot Toys version for that little bit extra detail

Hello Olaf, Thank you for your patience while we looked over you EIB application. We have looked at your costume and will require a few corrections before we will be able to grant your EIB status. Please feel free to reach out if you need any advice with the modifications. 1. For the shoulder straps; The shoulder straps do not overlap the tabs on the top of the back plate. This may be corrected by shortening the elastics connecting the chest and back plates over the shoulders to bring the back piece up, provided that there is room in the butt plate area to accommodate this. If not, the shoulder straps may need to be removed and reattached slightly higher on the chest plate or possibly replaced with a longer set. References 2. For the abdominal armour; The gap between the abdomen armour and the kidney armour should be no more than 1/2". You already have a shim in place, but it will need to be a bit longer. Please note as well, that if you are aiming for level 3 approval, the gap will need to be completely closed. L2:Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. References With respect to the shims, they should be flush with the kidney armour and not glued to the underside. A new shim will need to be placed butting up against the kidney armour to provide a smooth transition. A piece of ABS should then be placed on the inside to provide backing and support. L2: Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed. 3. For the thermal detonator; We will need a few adjustments on your thermal detonator. With respect to the screws, they do appear to have been painted black but most of the paint seems to have chipped off. A few minutes with some black paint should do the trick. L2: Clips shall be attached with slotted type, flat or dome top style screws, and be black (two per clip). References Also with your thermal detonator, the clip ends appear to be raised where they meet the control panel. These should sit flush. This can be corrected by carefully bending the ends slightly for a tighter fit with the edge sitting right against the control panel. L2:Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. References 4. For your blaster; We will require you to do a bit more sanding and refinishing as there are still some visible print lines which are not allowed for level 2. L2: 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. As a final note, when dressing, try to ensure that the gap between the biceps and elbow is the same as the gap between the forearm and hand guard. On your submission photos, your right forearm is shifted up and your left biceps and left forearm are sitting low. You may need to make a few strapping adjustments to correct this.

Z6 Riot Control Baton References The First Order’s stormtroopers are trained in riot-control tactics and the use of non-lethal equipment such as the Z6 baton. The baton has a magnetic grip, can be spun in combat and delivers a stunning shock. Troopers often use it in conjunction with a betaplast riot shield. On Takodana, FN-2199 used a Z6 baton against his former stormtrooper comrade FN-2187, better known as Finn. TFA TLJ TROS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAtLV26wnCE