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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/18/2023 in Posts

  1. Arms 15mm Thighs 20mm Shins - front 20mm - back 25mm
    2 points
  2. Yeah I spent an hour rubbing my thumb over the glue bits after removing my first strip because I had the wrong side facing out. It’s not impossible to do, just takes some work.
    2 points
  3. Don't be Like Terry and get impatient and reach for the super glue. Cause if you do and have to readjust, this is what happens. luckily i was able to split and sand it down with the dremel and a rotary drum. Got that issue solve and decided to move on to the calves with help from my fitment inspector.. Ive got six pieces ready to go and I started working on my thighs. I'm 5'11'' and had to trim a good 1.5"s off of the top following the same line and the curve in the armor. I was pretty nervous so I trimmed a 1/4" at a time till it felt right. The bottom of my thigh now sits at the top of my knee. I'm positive more will come off once I've added the cod and butt plate.
    1 point
  4. I also wanted to highlight the bezel process I did for the cover strip. I followed information from a couple of posts First this guide although using older AM armor Ukswrath does a fantastic job highlighting the build process. Ukswrath’s AM 1.0 Build Then this comment for the cover strips themselves Essentially I’ve trimmed the corners off and then I used a razor edge to bezel the outside edges. Attached below is a photo of the angle to hold the razor to the edge and then slide it back and forth to chisel the bezel into the plastic. Here’s a picture of example bezels on a strip. This strip is nasty looking because it was a test strip I used to make sure I did things right before doing the official strips
    1 point
  5. SHOULDERS In terms of work to be done on the shoulders themselves there really isn’t a lot with these AM 5.0 kits from Dave. I did trim the return edge off though, so here’s a before and after comparison to see the trim. From here I will update this area more when I get to the strapping of the shoulders.
    1 point
  6. Thanks for the feedback! I'll get to work on making final adjustments to the forearms and trimming yet this weekend. And that's definitely my mistake on the cover strips. I attempted to bevel the edges like AJ referenced on his thread. It wasn't until I got them in a different light that I realized that it didn't have the intended effect. I'll sand the edges to at least smooth the ragged edges to some degree. I probably won't try to bevel the remaining cover strips.
    1 point
  7. Nice work, Jonathan... looks like you are moving along quite nicely!! Excellent job on the tops of the forearms. Just enough (but not too much) of the return edges, which will give them that thicker appearance but not cut into your arms. I noticed that the edges of the cover strips are a little ragged, but it's not that big of a deal since the shoulder bells will cover a lot of it. Your left one has a smooth edge which is spot-on. For the remaining cover strips, I would suggest using a sanding block*** with some 180 grit paper using long strokes to give them a clean straight edge, Smart move by wearing gloves during fitting! A few things to keep in mind: 1. The wrist opening should be just wide enough to get your hand through and leave a little extra room for the glove. 2. Remember that since the hand guards are glued to the glove you will have to put the gloves on after you suit up and tuck them in. It looks like you have the Nomex gloves, and hopefully they are the ones with the longer wrists, which keeps them from popping out during a troop. 3. The forearm should be tapered as much as possible but still allow for comfort/mobility at both ends. My personal rule of thumb is if I can fit 2 or 3 fingers in between the armor and my wrist/upper arm I am good to go. 4. The openings on all your pieces should be sanded super smooth (220 grit or higher) to prevent snags. Trust me, lol. *** A small piece of scrap FLAT wood will do nicely.. just wrap the paper around it. The foam type sanding blocks are great for curved areas, but not really so good for flat ones. Looking forward to seeing your next steps!!
    1 point
  8. Hey, everyone! It's been a few days since I posted last. I've been working on putting the finishing touches on the bicep pieces. The final results are below. Overall, I'm happy with how they turned out! As MaskedVengeance recommended, I got a few pictures of the biceps and untrimmed forearms on in order to gauge each piece's proportions. The forearms are fitted in accordance with the trim lines posted on my previous post. As always, any feedback would be appreciated as I start the process of trimming these down. Thank you!
    1 point
  9. I find using a sharp piece of plastic scrap removes it really well, just re-cut the piece when it goes dull/blunt, some use a toothpick, a wet rag for very thin glue smears, rubbing the thumb over can also work
    1 point
  10. I've got so much glue to remove. The cover strip slipped and the glue got everywhere on my forearms!
    1 point
  11. Congrats on your approval Gary. We are here to help you get to EIB and centurion.
    1 point
  12. Nice job, If you're using E6000, just take care of the glue excess, You can try putting less or wait for 10-15 minutes and to remove the excess with a toothpick or some piece of ABS plastic. Once the glue cures, it will be hard to remove that excess
    1 point
  13. Reference images here NOTE for higher levels: Thigh Any mobility cuts on the back do not extend beyond the top of the raised ridge. Shins Any mobility cuts on back of piece do not go past raised ridges.
    1 point
  14. Huge shoutout to Andrew of Crossfire Props - if you need stuff 3D printed, including in large-format resin, he was an absolute professional and pleasure to work with, and at a reasonable price. He did some TLJ First Order Thermal Detonators for me in single-piece resin, with low-infill FDM for lightweight inner tubes, from the Jesse_M files on commission and they came out amazing. He's currently based out of Kansas City, MO, USA but will ship via UPS, and everything was well packed. Give him a shout with any print or paint commissions! @crossfireprops on IG https://crossfireprops.artstation.com/ https://crossfireprops.com/pages/customs-commissions
    1 point
  15. How many clamps can you fit on a forearm? 8!
    1 point
  16. The bicep pieces still felt comfortable after I trimmed and glued the inner cover strips on the first sides of the piece, so I went ahead and trimmed and glued the other sides. I currently have the inner cover strips glued in, and I'll apply the outer cover strips to each bicep piece in a few days when the glue dries. I'll be sure to post a picture of the finished product! I followed Dave's advice in the video I posted and followed a similar method to the bicep pieces in measuring the initial cuts for the forearm pieces. Based on this method, the lines I measured are in the pictures below: Left Bicep: Right Bicep: I tried to take better pictures for these pieces so show my arms in relation to the lines measured. As always, any feedback would be appreciated before I make final cuts. Thanks!
    1 point
  17. Looking good, sir! You can use the excess from the sides for interior cover strips, but glue those in before the outside ones. Nice to see that you removed most of the return edge.. looks perfect!
    1 point
  18. There's a lot of AP build threads on here. My own is linked in my signature and there's many in the ANH Stunt section. Mark (owner of AP) is active on the forum. Email is indeed the best way to get in contact with him for any questions or repair parts. Welcome to FISD Robert!
    1 point
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