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Hi, I'm just here because I'm building ANH Luke and wanted the stormtrooper outfit from ANH for photoshoots.

With most versions of Stormtrooper there can be some on screen oddities, this could be because of fit or size of someone or Stunt/Hero versions, some of the details you mentioned have been noticed but since they are not the generally overall look of most of the onscreen seen Stormtroopers those details would not have been taken as normal, it's a bit like "Mr No Stripes" in ANH. It's entirely up to our DO's if they would allow these differences in the higher levels @justjoseph63 @TKSpartan, who may jump in on this thread

That sounds good. Thanks, will look into doing the same [emoji106] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

If you do a small section it may be seen, you don't have to do the whole belt, I have some plastic which sits just behind the plastic belt section (hits the snap so it can't move) then runs to under the detonator so you can't see that plastic is actually there.

Amazing how shiny the armor is once you've pulled off the protective layer

The comments about the abs belt are Joseph's. Take a look back in this thread.

[emoji106] Thanks [emoji4] I was thinking something along the lines of the same plastic insert into the belt, but hadn't considered doing the whole belt. Can see that just doing a small section could be visible on the outside. I guess the easiest solution is to actually the holster as little as possible! Did you mention the belt buttons because you've seen too large a gap on my belt? Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Getting very close now, amazing how much quicker the second build can be

None question is contentious in any way Richard, make all the questions you have with confidence, our main goal in the FISD is to Help . About the Canvas belt, the CRL states fot L3 Canvas belt can not contain patches of any sort. Canvas belt must be firm / sturdy in appearance. No creasing or sagging  You can put the abs piece as you need but this must be not noticeable and please remember Joseph 's las recommendations some days ago about the AB Belt. CRL L3: The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt. "Also, when attaching your canvas belt to the ABS belt, remember that the lower angle of the 45 degree corners need to line up with the top and bottom of the canvas belt as seen below, and the button covers should not have too much space between them and the ends of the belt (green arrow)." Reference image You can also check this Trooper's solution to the same issue. Hope this can help

Happy Friday! It's amazing. I have very organized hardware storage bins filled with every conceivable kind of screw, nut and bolt. Yet I don't have anything to fit the grips and scope rings. So, off to the Home Depot and I found some pretty cool screws. These are nylon "pan-head" screws with common (not Robertson or Phillips) heads. Exactly what I needed. They are a bit long, but that is the beauty of the nylon material. Easy to snip to size. Once snipped, I will rough the screw heads with sandpaper, then prime. After they are screwed / glued into place, a quick dab with black paint and you got Uncle Bob. I'll be gluing and clamping the grip panels down as they are very slightly bowed.

Hey folks, The RS renovation helmet is now fully complete. To me, it really looks like a "screen used" helmet due to the processes used. Here's the final video that runs through the process from start to finish; Thanks for following the build. I'll see you on the next build. :-) Best wishes, Dan / CableGuy

Hi Richard, the photo you posted after the sniper knee trimming looks good to me, just a few adjustment is needed to fit better. As Joseph explained, different makers have some details that fit better than others . In this case RWA Armor allows to fit the sniper knee in a great manner, (I have done) . My suggestion was made in order to reduce, (not eliminate it cause is very difficult), a bit more the gap between the Sniper Knee and the Cover strip while keeping the alignment with the ridges. First photo Second Photo Original Gap I apologies if I wasn't clear and made you buy extra pieces. We are here to help and serve every step on the way and we'll be more than happy when you achieve the Centurion Badge under your name as we imaging the smile of pride in your face. Additionally , let me say you're doing a great work posting photos and making questions before taking the step. Keep it up.

Hello Troopers, First off, thanks to anyone checking out my build thread. I'll preface this by saying this will be a marathon, not a sprint. I'm not gonna give myself a timeframe, I'd rather take my time and see how it goes, but I do plan to build towards Centurion from the start. As it's my first build, I'll be sure to ask plenty of questions here when I get stuck, which I'm pretty sure will be often. I feel no matter how much research you do, it's still going to be an eye opener once you get your hands on the shiny, white armor for the first time! Here's a link to my new member intro in case anyone wants to take a look: So after a few weeks of research and due diligence, I decided to go with an ATA helmet + armor kit. Was added to the waiting list on 8/16 and got an email yesterday (coincidentally, my bday!) that my kit was next and would be finished in a few days time. Needless to say, I was PUMPED! So BBB day should be coming in the next week or two, I'll be sure to update when that day arrives. Since I don't have my kit quite yet, I spent August pouring over build threads, tutorials, etc. and stocking up on tools & supplies and some soft goods. I have already ordered an E-11 Blaster from Quest Design Canada on Etsy (thanks to @Firedog for feedback regarding his blaster) but that's still about 6 weeks out. I've also purchased my holster and neck seal from DarmansProps, still waiting on those as well. I believe a build thread can't have too many pictures, so below are a few I have so far. Imperial Boots 421's, received in early August: TD clips and Hovi Mix tips from @ukswrath's Etsy shop (thanks Tony! these are fantastic!) I'm unsure if I'm going to fully handpaint my helmet or use "handpainted" look decals, so I ordered a full set of Humbrol paints AND a set of Dave M helmet decals from Trooperbay. I figure I'll see how the helmet build goes and then decide when I get there, but both options will be available to me when the time comes. Of course if I use the decals, I'll need the paints for frown, ears, vocoder, ab buttons, screw tops and rivet tops anyway. Here's some miscellaneous tools/supplies (line 24 snaps, snap setter/anvil, some blind pop rivets that came with my hand riveter, lexan scissors, utility knife, etc.): And last weekend, decided to get my feet wet with snaps, since snap setting is entirely new to me. I referenced @justjoseph63 Snaps 101 thread (many thanks already to Joseph for all the SUPER helpful newbie threads and also a shout out to @MaskedVengeancefor his Index of Resources), but I also tried a method mentioned by @gmrhodes13 of using a phillips head screwdriver prior to the snap setter to kind of score the post. In the pic below, on the male snap plates you might be able to see I tried each method on a couple of the plates. Not sure which I prefer yet after only a few snaps, but where scoring the post first made a HUGE difference was the female snap post. I only attempted two, the first one without scoring the post is on the left and I completely butchered that one, post flattened out sideways. Used the screwdriver scoring on the the one on the right and it worked almost perfectly. I'll play around with more snaps this weekend and I'm sure I'll get the hang of it more with additional practice: And lastly, for this update, since I had to drag a barstool from the kitchen into the garage for snaps practice, I realized the "need" for a garage stool. And since I realized this "need" in the early stages of TK armor building, well then, why would I not get this one: Stay tuned for Episode II....BBB day, coming soon!!!

Next stop, bucket painting. The main references I'm using as a guide are @CableGuy's ANH Stunt - helmet painting tips thread and linked YouTube vids (what a glorious helmet!) and starswarshelmets.com: http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm Sample references of the Dave M (L) and Brian R (R) helmets: So far I started with all the black (Humbrol 85 Satin Black), as I was hoping for feedback before I continue on with the grey (Humbrol 5 Dark Admiralty Grey Gloss. I know I painted more than I needed to here, but it was mostly pulling excess paint from the borders during application of 2 coats. Ear bars are done too, forgot to take pics.

Well, today was finally BBB day!!!! And USPS was kind enough to deliver my holster and neck seal from DarmansProps along with the BBBs, so it was Christmas in September! Things just got VERY real, lol. I know it's a common initial reaction, but I'll still say it...I opened things up and thought "OH MY LORD VADER, what have I gotten myself into?" Feeling pretty intimidated right now, but I know the fantastic resources and guidance from the awesome troopers of the FISD will help me see things through. I have a somewhat busy weekend, but I WILL find some time to dive in...and I can't wait to get things started! All comments and advice are welcome! So I've babbled enough, on with the photos! I kind of underestimated the amount of space I would need to lay out all the pieces, lol. I know it's a Big Brown Box and all, but it seemed bottomless as I unpacked it. I didn't try to match up rights and lefts just yet. I'll do that when I start working on them. The shins were marked R and L, so at least I won't have to figure those out. Just wanted to make sure everything was present and accounted for. Looks like it's all there, but please let me know if it looks like anything's missing. Thanks Troopers! As I said above, hopeful to get started on actual building this weekend. I plan on starting with the TD. Seems like fairly simple cuts to get used to working with ABS and also some glueing to get used to working with the E6000. One question in regards to the TD: If I'm not able to source gray pipe, is there a specific shade of gray paint required? Gloss or matte? I think I remember reading where someone just used gray primer? Thank you!