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Hi Les Good start. Whilst I agree that you could trim the actual brow a little, the main thing here is that the faceplate alignment is a little out. Here’s a full section on the topic; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48293-anh-helmet-alignment/ In your specific case, I’ve tried to highlight the adjustments below. It’s colour coded so here we go: Blue - the faceplate needs to rotate to allow the tube/cheek to align better* with the ‘back&cap’. *see yellow Yellow - note how the yellow line on the screen used helmet follows organically from back&cap through to the tubes/cheeks Pink line - note on the originals how this line follows the mould line on the back&cap, then rises slightly on the brow area (only a little). This is common. As per the link I shared, best bet is to get some magnets, experiment with the position, compare with originals. If it’s of use, here’s a video where I talk about alignment and other tips for accurate helmet building: Any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. :-) Dan

Hi all! California's mandated quarantine has freed up time for me to start inhaling whitearmor.net build threads. After attending the 2015 Celebration in Anaheim and seeing many of you in armor, I placed an order for Anovos' first TK wave. I received my BBB a long long time ago now, but I'm happy to finally start researching, gathering tools and supplies, and mapping out my plan (strongly leaning towards TD right off the bat). I'm 30 now, but I was raised on the OT on VHS. I really don't remember watching many other movies growing up- Star Wars was apparently all I needed. Lego Star Wars products also emerged when I was young, further fueling my fandom. I still fondly remember trying to load the trailer for The Phantom Menace back when the internet was new; I remember it taking multiple hours because so many people were watching at once. When the prequels were released, I enjoyed getting swept up in the grandeur of it all. The battles were bigger, the world-building was stellar, and music was epic. The plot we can all debate, but it seemed the editing might have held the movies back. And of course, all along I've played Star Wars console games, ranging from N64 Podracer and Roque Squadron to my favorite KOTR 1 + 2 and the multiple Battlefront games, among many others. Long story short, I've loved Star Wars, I love Star Wars, and it will always be a part of me. While the Sequel Trilogy was fun at times, it hasn't struck the same chords. For now I'll lean on my nostalgia. There's plenty of it.

I’m at that point of needing to cut a big hole in my chest for the resin block.. I’m trying to put it off as long as I can lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here we go! Name: Jonas Andersson TK ID: 22423 Forum name: LEGOeatPokemon Garrison: Nordic Garrison Armor maker: SDS (Modified) Helmet maker: SDS (Modified) Blaster maker: SDS (Modified) Boots maker: SDS? Canvas belt: Imperial Issue Hand plates: @justjoseph63 Electronics: @ukswrath bracket fan system Neckseal type: SDS Holster maker: SDS (Modified) Full body pics: Helmet: Blaster: Holster: :TD Abdomen: Neck seal: Interior strapping: Cod to butt connection: Tell me if there any more pictures you need.

Sn4k3, nope not at this time that I am aware of.

Learned something new today. My grandmother was a seamstress and for some reason I never learned. That changed today when I needed to sew up my gaskets a little tighter. My girlfriend has a machine and showed me how to do everything. Here’s my latest test fit. Starting to look good I think. If anyone has any feedback, please let me know. Sounds like it’ll be a couple weeks or so before I get my yolk/back pieces. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's about time, Jonas, lol! One of us will be with your shortly sir!

Great Jonas, now just wait for the D.O. team to start your review. any other photo or adjustment wiil be ask by them Good Luck , Your EIB Badge is waiting for You Trooper !!!

Here we have some extra photos: Split rivets: Han snap: Buttons, I know as they are separate and not molded into the button panels they don't hold up for centurion. I will probably change them sometime when I can afford new button plates, right now I have very little money and can't afford any new ones. Will be satisfied with EI for now at least. Hopefully those will do!

No thats light, they're metal Skickat från min H60-L04 via Tapatalk

Hi Jonas, glad to see your EIB application so soon !!! Great mate. According to the CRL, you may want to add the following photos that i'm sure the D.O. Team will surely ask you for: 1- Close photo :Right and Left ,outside and inside of your Thigh ammo pack to see the rivets type. Level two certification (if applicable): Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet, painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. No pop rivets allowed. Rivet should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter (exterior). 2- Close Photo of your Sniper Knee Right and Lef side to see alignment Level two certification (if applicable): Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. 3- Close Photo of your boots: Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Boots have a black sole 4- Close photo of your ab section to see the ab buttons . A split (bifurcated) or single cap rivet is present on the lower tab (cod area) of the abdomen armor. Rivet does not need to be functional. Rivet on must be brass or silver in color, approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter and is not painted. 5- Close photo of your chest to Back plate connection to see the white fabric Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders. The D.O team will let you know of any additional photos to submit. Good luck with your approval mate!!

Thanks [emoji1591][emoji41][emoji1591] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Absolute textbook work there, Martyn! Just make sure the drop box straps are secure in the back so that they don't slide.

Hi Martyn, your Belt looks amazing and those drop-wallet boxes are such great idea. cool!!!

Just a quick post of my belt progress. I have also been playing about with my drop boxes; I've installed a small magnet and filed down a single nut & bolt for each box, stuck with E6000 and used white cloth tape as a hinge. I've seen a couple of build thread doing a simular thing to store bank cards, small phone etc. Whilst trooping. Let me know what you think? (Nothing has been attached to the belt yet). Cheers, Martyn. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

ST-26019 requesting access https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=32317 Rancor Raiders Garrison. Thank you!

Looking great Chris, almost ready for some paint

After a very long day with some sandpaper, glue, and file set I was able to complete a few more things. Used my small round and flat files to cut out my pill holes on the chest and biceps. Glued the rails and screen cast clip greeblies on my forearms. And worked a little more on finishing up the recessed line on the TD. KB does not include that detail on this for some reason. As a side note, finally heard back from 3D-Props and he is printing the last couple of parts for my rifle and pistol. Said they will ship out tomorrow. That’s all for today! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, so maybe I won’t wait to post pics.. Just drilled the holes and test fit the corner pieces. Is there a proper name for these? I think they’re supposed to be lights.. have yet to see them light up on screen. I’m liking how this turned out. Pretty clean looking even with the bolts and nuts. Way more work than I wanted to do, but I had to work with the parts I got. I’m using 5/16-18x1-1/2 nylon bolts with nylon nuts and washers. Same hardware I used on the ab boxes. Just have to complete mounting the trim and glass next. Then figure out what I want to do on the rear with the strap and handle. Finished applying, what I hope is, the last coat of XTC-3D on the trim pieces. I sanded them down and found a few spots that needed leveling out. Once dry I should be able to mount everything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is my first build. A heck of a lot more work than I ever expected, but now that I’ve learned all these skills.. and have lots of tools and extra supplies.. I wouldn’t mind doing another one. It’s completely overwhelming yet oddly satisfying. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got a few more items done today. Sanded up the exterior of the shield parts and began filling them with the XTC-3D like I did with the triangle trim pieces. This will give them some strength and will allow me to recess the bolts that I will be using for mounting them on the shield. I used my small Dremel and cut out enough of the internal honeycomb support structure to recess the bolt, then mixed up the XTC-3D and filled up the interior until it met where the bolt head will sit. On my next pass I will insert the bolt and add the XTC-3D to secure them. The ABS part is to help hold the bolt up straight when curing. While those cure, I worked on securing the holster I got from Dan. Also attached the resin strips to the forearms. And last but not least, I was able to mount the ab boxes. I used the same procedure that others did by using bolts that were glued to the box and mount through a hole drilled into the armor. Seems like a very secure and tight fit. That’s all for now. I spoke to KB a little and it may be a week or a few weeks before I get my hands on the chest/back and shins. Also waiting to hear from 3D-Props regarding my weaponry. He’s been a little hard to get in touch with, but he finally wrote today saying he’ll get me an ETA later today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you so much. Excellent info and very helpful with guidelines for visual reference. My intention is to try to be in the first 1000 EIB, lol. Ultimate goal would be Centurian . Thanks again for all!!

Update, I applied the clear coat and hung the rifle to dry. Next, I wrapped the “D” gasket and put the sling and tac light back on. I do not like how the “D” gasket looks so I will be looking for a different solution. But my Rogue One T-21 is done for now. If I change out the “D” gasket, I will post an update; otherwise, the gun is done. Thanks for the interest.

Sorry spice. Ok I used a number 3 welding shield and cut out the lenses from it. I got it from a local welding supply vendor called Praxair. But acklands grainger or McMaster Carr should have the same thing I got 3 sets of lenses from it. As for the putter I used plumbing epoxy putty. It's a 2 part putty kneaded it well stuck the nuts with the screws in them after measuring where I wanted my drill holes to go on the lenses and let it harden. It gets super solid after about 10 minutes. As for your gaps use a heat gun on the lenses out of the helmet heat them up and press around the helmet eye holes. It forms the lens to the shape of the hole. Sent from my SGH-I317M using Tapatalk