All Activity

It's just the armor you wont get rid of that bend withought heating and that takes practice. I add elastic and ABS strips behind my rivets, strips keep the elastic flat, add a little glue to around the post before opening rivets. Double over the elastic also for a tighter fit I used snaps on one set of armor, it was more for packing and flying, worked ok but can come loose when opening closing.

You will once your profile is updated, when A.C. is back online

Yours actually makes more sense Maybe the Jedi crossing the road is to get to the light side

I don't like But I try this. I hope you like it . Why did Anakin Skywalker cross the road? To get to the Dark Side!

But I don't have Access to these posts like merch or trading.

Back from vacation, and back to the suit! I got pretty heavily into getting snaps and strapping restarted. I had quite a few setbacks because of the aforementioned snap setting tool, which is now keeping company with the other items in my trash bin. I instead went back to basics and got the Tandy snap setting tool. Using Glen’s screwdriver trick, and some rotation of the tool to strike the post at different angles initially, and some patience got me to a much higher success rate. I got the elastic strapping done for the arms: Kidney to butt plate are also secured: Overall, it’s coming together, which is exciting! : Now I’m on the rivets on the left side of the torso. I’ve gone ahead and drilled the holes, and I know how to set the rivets. Just checking here though: I’ve seen one approach where the rivets hold nylon strapping across the front to back, and another where the rivets are more cosmetic, and there are additional snaps/straps to make the connection. Which should I do? Method A - Fixed nylon strapping: Method B - snaps 5/6/7 in Billhag diagram: One other thing I noticed is that the kidney plate in the WTF kit is not flat at the edge that mates to the ab plate: Would gluing a flat backing plate to the kidney be advisable?

very very nice!

Next step reach out to your GML (garrison membership liaison) as they look after base costume approval. Once your TK is approved you can request higher TK access to our forum so you can access any merchandise runs

Ok, I fixed the belt box issue, it was just a case of sliding them over a bit. So no worries there now. I'm just going for basic. I don't need any upper level certifications on it.

Welcome aboard Randy, good to hear you are doing your research, yes it can be overwhelming at first. If you can get to see members from your local garrison it can be a big help, getting hands on help or just a conversation can get you moving along. Looking forward to seeing a build from you soon. This thread may also be of help

I am also from Riverside, now living in West Michigan (Wyoming, MI). I am gathering my armor after learning what I can from the forums. It's overwhelming at first but I hope it will get easier once I meet more people from the 501st.

Welcome to FISD Maria. We are here to help every step on the way ! ask all questions you have before paying any coin.

Nice weathering Glen! Bill, your helmet ears are looking great! I screwed one of my first sets up and had to order new ones.

Welcome to the FISD. Lots of traders, and there was a patch run late last year so there should be a few in circulation still. Good hunting.

Requesting access TK-42934 Star Garrison https://www.501st.com/members/searchresults.php?searchfield=42934&criteria=tkid

That's your legion forum profile, not the membership profile, have a read of the first post in this thread for instructions

You can trim this piece straight down, grey line. Red is where you add the step ATA is like that, different sides/gaps, here's mine L3 approved, note the material between ear and brow trim

Awesome job Ron!

Best I could get the extra paint off. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hello @Salome (Maria), and welcome to FISD. Personally, I would not buy my armor on sites like Etsy, Ebay etc..., not everything sold there is valid for the 501st, and we don't want you to spend your money on something it's not valid... Take a look at the list sent to you by Nairy, and if you have any questions, ask...there is always someone willing to help in this great family that is FISD.

Took the Dremel with the sanding drum to it this time. I can’t take anymore off without messing with the integrity of the plastic. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

MUCH BETTER!! I was able to realign without changing the brow. You can see my mark made prior to the realignment. THIS, I can work with. There's a bit of a gap at the tube bend but I feel like if I take a bit more off the top of the round part it will lower the overall level. Of course, your tips are invited!

I think I found the problem. As I mentioned earlier, the left tube is 7mm lower than on the right - see below. I'm going to drill out the rivets and then realign and re-rivet. I've got tracings and two marks to show the reposition as well as a mark 7mm below the left-side rim. its going to be a bit tricky in moving it so as to be sure to maintain equal brow alignment.

Hey Glen, hold off on comments on my questions above. I just measured and found the tube on the left side is 7mm lower, or away from the top than it is on the right side. I'm going to drill out the rivets and do what I can to put it all back together so that it looks acceptable.

Requesting access. TK-23219 reporting in from the Alpine Garrison! https://www.501st.com/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=25082