AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted December 5, 2009 Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 So I got my AP Armor in the mail. Hard to wait for the local armor party to happen so i got started trimming. Going for ANH stunt look. tell me what you think please...looking for advice and a vote of confidence... Hand Plates: do these need to stay squared all the way around the base/bottom? I have looked for references and nothing really shows the hand plates...Am I being too anal? Helmet: have I trimmed enough around the eyes? Feeling good about it just sanding up is left before I marry up the helmet pieces with rivets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GosHawk[501st] Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Trimming looks good! As for the hand plates I personally like to keep it a bit squared around the base to give the illusion of being thick armor. Its really is up to the wearer though. Good job and keep those pics and questions coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ABS80 Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Sand more of the bump down or leave a small bump like most stunt helmet, but each have their prefference. Here's my AP I built, I sanded down most of the bump Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted December 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Sand more of the bump down or leave a small bump like most stunt helmet, but each have their prefference. Here's my AP I built, I sanded down most of the bump Mark I am sanding down some more of bump, and hope to have the helmet married together soon for those that are willing to critique my work. I really do like all feedback good and bad...thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Personally, I like the hand plates to look like they have a little thickness. Here's mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted December 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Personally, I like the hand plates to look like they have a little thickness. Here's mine I saw your "how to" and I am going to use this method to attach...I have seen these pictures ...I was wondering about the wrist side do you have some or any curve to it? thanks for the post and reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Here is the helmet basically assembled...anyone see any issues?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Werstrooper Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Maybe take some more material off the ears, I think the curved lip where the ears join the helmet needs more trimming so there's no curve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Maybe take some more material off the ears, I think the curved lip where the ears join the helmet needs more trimming so there's no curve. Yes...I was trying to be careful no to trim to much, will adjust and post, thanks for looking and commenting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIVE[501st] Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Yes, the ears looked a little "thick" to me too. Especially at the top / circular part. I would also "square" off the teeth a bit more. They were / are pretty open on the original buckets. Getting rid of the little 'swoops' in the corners of yours should do it though. Get a triangle shaped fine tooth file to do that finishing work with. I have no doubt you have 100 reference photos pulled up on your computer and taped to your walls while you're working... right? If not, do that too. Great job so far though man!! Even if you didn't change a thing it looks really good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted December 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Yes, the ears looked a little "thick" to me too. Especially at the top / circular part. I would also "square" off the teeth a bit more. They were / are pretty open on the original buckets. Getting rid of the little 'swoops' in the corners of yours should do it though. Get a triangle shaped fine tooth file to do that finishing work with. I have no doubt you have 100 reference photos pulled up on your computer and taped to your walls while you're working... right? If not, do that too. Great job so far though man!! Even if you didn't change a thing it looks really good! I have been working on the items mentioned...100 photos....is that all? I am going to post an updated photo of the helmet soon. Thank you for the feedback. This does help much... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted December 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 So here are the updated pictures as of today...I trimed the ears some more...painted the frown and attached a inside headband...next up 1. eye lenses 2. mic tips 3. frown screen (anybody want to help a guy in north pole alaska get some frown screen I can pay for it) 4. polish up 5. remaining decals Anybody interested in commenting, its welcome good or bad this is my first experience at putting together a helmet. Thanks in advance. PS: the hand plates are done and I started on the forearm and biceps. front inside side angles more to come! will add trim on the bottom also... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted December 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Almost completed the Helmet, just need to add frown screen. I am going to attempt to use Pandatrooper's technique to attached hand plates. Last photo is of the Right arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-4510[TK] Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 youch! tube stripes are on backwards bro! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted December 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 youch! tube stripes are on backwards bro! That sucks <_< so I guess I will order some from you to replace...there is no way i could line them up that straight one by one. Anybody see anything else?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Ears used to be too thick, tubestripes backwards... small amount of flashing still on eyes. should have no lip. good job on the ears. Other than getting some better mic tips and some rubber trim... I'd also attach a couple of chinstraps with 2 snaps. leather with a topper made of elastic. usually screwed into the longest 6/32, you're well on your way! I'd remove the helmet interior and replace it with a lighter more flexible foam star like in the originals. I've never understood why a trooper would want a batting helmet interior. it's way too heavy to wear. a star foam and a chinstrap keep an AP helmet really light. I usually put a small cage fan right in the frown. the battery and switch fits well inside the tube. if you would like some black frown screen I can help you out. just PM me your Address and I'll send you some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted December 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 So I got the arms toghether...taped test fit before I move forward...will do final sand and fit and polish..working on the legs now...behind on the build a little but the helmet is ok, waiting on frown screen and new decals (tube stripes) I painted the buttenos for the chest plate and just waiting on the harness system to arrive for fitting everything up. Calfs I will post some more (photos this weekend) the build is about 40% complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted December 31, 2009 Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 Looks like you're making nice progress! Your harness and mesh were shipped yesterday. Should arrive to you soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted January 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2010 Thanks Terry, Happy New Year! I should have all the legs together by this Monday. The harness will be right on time! Sweet... Looks like you're making nice progress! Your harness and mesh were shipped yesterday. Should arrive to you soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james007bond[TK] Posted January 1, 2010 Report Share Posted January 1, 2010 Dennis, Build seems good buddy..... another thing regarding the lid, see if you can put it on your head as the AP lid is generally a snug fit... sometimes people will cut off more around the front of the lid so you can get it on your head easier.... Another useful tip, regarding the ANH strips, i'd cut the excesses off so that they sit flat again the edges of the armour, otherwise you'll find that they will catch alot especially when you troop.... also they will dig into you giving your 'trooper' bites.... Just take your time, AP is not the easiest kit to assemble..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted January 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 Dennis, Build seems good buddy..... another thing regarding the lid, see if you can put it on your head as the AP lid is generally a snug fit... sometimes people will cut off more around the front of the lid so you can get it on your head easier.... Another useful tip, regarding the ANH strips, i'd cut the excesses off so that they sit flat again the edges of the armour, otherwise you'll find that they will catch alot especially when you troop.... also they will dig into you giving your 'trooper' bites.... Just take your time, AP is not the easiest kit to assemble..... Thanks for commenting! I have to put the helmet on like a cork screw......it is tight. Will be trimming and fixing strips to avoid the bite, the only bite I really want is when I am fishing. Thanks again! Pictures being posted tommorrow of my progress... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted January 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 Update 2010: I received my holster, way cool! I received replacement tube stripes! Working on thighs and detail shaping and shiming. I used pandatroopers hand plate build for reference, but I used a fabric glue instead of sewing, I had used this before with some Kiss costumes I have done previously, should hold if not will get a needle and thread....About 50% completed with the build. What to be done and part of the 501st prior to the Star Wars exhibit coming to the Anchorage museum for a month in starting in Feburary should be some good trooping to be had at the event. What do you think of my cool hand gestures? Comments welcome.... Calfs - (back closed with velcro) Still waiting on my under suit, neck seal, frown screen, and harness system in the mail ....thanks to everyone on the forum that has helped me with my build special thanks to pandatrooper,,,,very nice! Update again soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 3, 2010 Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 Looking good, stay on target... stay on target! Dennis, couple things that will make the armor look tip top. For the backs of the shins, if you're closing them using velcro, try to make it so that the velcro closure is facing "in" on each leg. That way, from the "outside" of each leg, you won't see any velcro, just the finishing strip and overlap. Also, it;s not required for CRL but for more authenticity, make sure to run some black elastic around the shoulder bells, near the base so that they wrap around your biceps. This will help keep them in place and minimize the gap where your armpits are. Look at some of the original pics and some screen accurate builds, you'll see this. Have you already figured out the strap between the chest and back, and the strap that holds the shoulder bell in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanSalmonTrooper[501st] Posted January 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 Looking good, stay on target... stay on target! Much Thanks Dennis, couple things that will make the armor look tip top. For the backs of the shins, if you're closing them using velcro, try to make it so that the velcro closure is facing "in" on each leg. That way, from the "outside" of each leg, you won't see any velcro, just the finishing strip and overlap. Yes will look at correcting this issue Also, it;s not required for CRL but for more authenticity, make sure to run some black elastic around the shoulder bells, near the base so that they wrap around your biceps. This will help keep them in place and minimize the gap where your armpits are. Look at some of the original pics and some screen accurate builds, you'll see this. Will be doing this also Have you already figured out the strap between the chest and back, and the strap that holds the shoulder bell in place? I am using an elastic strap with snaps to connect the bicep to shoulder, is there a link for a reference photo of what you speak of? As far as the chest to back I was not planning on connecting them only the ab to kidney with a shim and chest to ab and back to kidney all with elastic? should I be looking at another method, suggestions welcomed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 Nope, there is no strap that connects the chest to back, I was referring to the shoulder strap that connects the top of the chest to the top of the back, and then an elastic strap that comes out at 90 degrees to attach to the shoulder bell. This isn't a great picture on mine, but you can see the white straps with snaps on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.