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Spending only so much


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The other thing you have to consider is the cost of all of the other things that make up the costume besides the armor cost:

-boots

-gloves

-neck seal

-under armor

-glue, straps, snaps, tools etc.

These alone will add another couple of hundred bucks, not to mention the additional, but not completely necessary:

-blaster

-blaster holster

-fans in helmet

-bin to hold all of your armor

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My concern is knocking the big purchase (armor and bucket) out of the way 1st.

 

ATA can be easily done with your budget. Your accessories will be $250-$300 easy.

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There is going to be another armor called AM which will replace the FX style suit if your willing to wait a bit...

 

It will be more accurate than the FX, but otherwise will have the same characteristics.

 

ATA is more accurate than both though.

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The reality is this is not a cheap hobby. $1000 for your first suit is pretty average when you add it all up. With ATA you can go a little cheaper, you can also easily climb to $1500 or more with upgrades.

 

This is not a cheap hobby by any stretch of the imagination. Heck, even an officer can be $500. An IN (Imperial Navy) helmet alone can go for between $250-$500 :-p

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My Jango Fett suit was like $1,300. but i stopped at the leather holsters and guns for money reasons but thats the only thing i'm missing. This time around i am hoping to not spend as much.

 

I know its like $500 for FX armor then Boots of course, new helmet of course, gun, lol not sure what else that does not come with the FX armor. Anyways I can't buy anything yet so I can only just research. Maybe I might be able to do ATA or something.

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polardude1983 said:
$350 for armor sounds awesome. Though I have no faith in myself for painting, priming and sanding.

 

Christoph-- I'm absolute crap with a spray can, and I got pretty decent results with the helmet I painted this summer.

It's easier than you think. All you really need to do is take your time-- and be willing to do things over, if needed.

I think you'll surprise yourself. Honestly.

 

Follow the last set of videos in this link to the letter, and you'll do just fine, I bet:

------------

Edited by gmrhodes13
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Is it truely needed to sand? When i repainted my pc people said i need to sand it first. and i did now that side of my computer is completely rough! I'm glad i didnt sand all the other stuff on my pc when i repainted it

 

I would strongly recommend it.

You want to use really fine-grit (1500 or so) wet/dry sandpaper though-- that way you'll avoid a rough finish.

Between that, and the priming, it will be smooth as glass.

 

At the very least, if you get ATA armor, make sure you wash it really well before you paint it. He uses baby-powder as a release agent to help get the plastic off the molds, and if you don't wash it, the paint finish will be horrendous.

 

A sponge, some warm water and a little Simple Green, or mild dishwashing soap will work great!

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Sanding by hand is slower but safer. You don't really need a power tool to roughen up the plastic for painting.

 

It drives me nuts when I see people painting on TV, and they just hold down the nozzle and waggle back and forth. The keys to good painting are prep, a clean environment and good painting techniques. My brother was an autobody technician for many years, it's crazy what he can do with mangled metal and make it look new. He taught me well. :)

 

- after you sand whatever it is you're painting, blow off the dust and wash the item in detergent and water. This will remove:

- any release agents on plastic

- any dust

- any finger prints / oils from your skin that may prevent paint from sticking

- let the parts air dry

- find a clean / dust free environment to paint with circulation. wear a mask and gloves if necessary. wash your hands before handling parts

- spray a primer if needed

- do light thin coats. Hold the spray can about 8-10" away, and prepare to gesture across the the object

- press the nozzle before you pass over the object, and release the button after you've passed the object

- overlap your strokes

- do THIN coats. never be tempted to get extra coverage in 1 coat

- it's better to do multiple thin coats to get coverage, rather than 1 or 2 thick coats

- time your coats properly. read the directions on the can, it will tell you when to recoat, and how long to let things dry

- let the object dry thoroughly before handling assembling.

 

Good luck!

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