Requesting Pre Approval for MFX Armor and RS Helmet ANH Stunt TK

[Andor_FX[TK]]

Hello from Germany,
I started this project in November 2025 using a pre-loved MFX armor kit that was in rather poor condition. Several parts had to be repaired and reworked before final assembly.

The original helmet was replaced with an RS Propmasters Stormtrooper Stunt Helmet (kit), which was built to match the armor as closely as possible.
 

As I am a slim trooper, extensive resizing and fitting was required to achieve proper proportions and a clean overall look while staying within the CRL requirements.

The armor build is now complete and fully wearable. With this thread, I am asking for a pre-approval to confirm that everything is on the right track before submitting for official approval.

My goal is basic approval. Any feedback or suggestions for improvement are very welcome.

Thank you for your time and support.

 

Thanks to the kind support of the troopers in this forum and the support of my local troopers, I was able to get this far. Many thanks!

Known issues: My buttplate overlapps the thigh, esp. on the left side.

Thighs on both sides may be to high.

 

 ----------  FULL ARMOR VIEW  ----------

     
  
  



 ----------  RS-PROPMASTERS HELMET  ----------


  
 
  

 


 ----------  ARMOR DETAILS  ----------

 

  

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 ----------  BOOTS (DIY dyed leather)  ----------

 

 

 

 

 

 

 ----------  ACCESORIES  ----------

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you





 

Edited January 26 by Andor_FX

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking good, your images are a little small, very hard to magnify to see details, larger size/resolution would be preferred.

 

Watch the heights of your thighs, they don't appear to be the same levels

Belt/abdomen on an angle.

Forearm to wrist/handguards different gaps.

 

Angled back plate, you may need tighter strapping.

Thighs touching posterior plate, try adjusting thighs. Your shins could come down they are high on the boots.

Detonator could be rotated slightly to see more of the O detail

             

 

There is some velcro showing between the forearm and handplage

 

Can't make out if you have a "Han" snap

 

There are some areas on your blaster which appear to have print lines. For L2 and above, see what your GML requires. 

• 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.

 

I don't see anything glaring that should hold you up for basic approval.

 

Good luck, hope we see you approved soon 

[Andor_FX[TK]]

Glen, thank you very much for your feedback and your time. I am happy to read that I am close to basic approval. 

Feedback:

Angled back plate, you may need tighter strapping.  check

Thighs touching posterior plate, try adjusting thighs.  check
Your shins could come down they are high on the boots. check

Angled back plate, you may need tighter strapping.  check

Your shins could come down they are high on the boots.  check

There are some areas on your blaster which appear to have print lines  check

There is some velcro showing between the forearm and handplage covering white typo with codes and logo of manufacturer, may be I can use paint to cover tis area

Detonator could be rotated slightly to see more of the O detail.  must be printed new
Can't make out if you have a "Han" snap No, there is no snap, just an overlapp
 

I will make most of the adjustments in no time, I think this is an easy task.

Questions:

Can you tell me pls what is mandatory to achive the goal "basic approval"?
Should I continue to reach level 2 from your perspective?

A highly motivated trooper expresses his gratitude  

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

2 hours ago, Andor_FX said:

Glen, thank you very much for your feedback and your time. I am happy to read that I am close to basic approval. 

Feedback:

Angled back plate, you may need tighter strapping.  check

Thighs touching posterior plate, try adjusting thighs.  check
Your shins could come down they are high on the boots. check

Angled back plate, you may need tighter strapping.  check

Your shins could come down they are high on the boots.  check

There are some areas on your blaster which appear to have print lines  check

There is some velcro showing between the forearm and handplage covering white typo with codes and logo of manufacturer, may be I can use paint to cover tis area

Detonator could be rotated slightly to see more of the O detail.  must be printed new
Can't make out if you have a "Han" snap No, there is no snap, just an overlapp
 

I will make most of the adjustments in no time, I think this is an easy task.

Questions:

Can you tell me pls what is mandatory to achive the goal "basic approval"?
Should I continue to reach level 2 from your perspective?

A highly motivated trooper expresses his gratitude  

What a GML will allow for basic approval can be different from garrison to garrison, if you want to submit for approval and see what feedback you get if any you can, I do think the wrist velcro would be picked up though. Larger resolution photos would be a good idea too 

 

By all means once basic approved look at applying for L2 EIB then on to L3 Centurion, there are only a few items here and there that would need adjusting are adding (Han snap) 

 

L2 EIB items

Velcro on glove remove

Detonator all you need do is rotate it on your clips, bending clips a little

No overlap on abdomen to kidney, you can try adding some foam behind your abdomen to help push it outwards, that will take up the slack from having a skinny frame.

3D weapons may not have print lines 

EIB photo checklist https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49703-ei-photo-checklist-updated-version-2024/

 

L3 Centurion items

Latex/silicon handplates

"Han" snap, a single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present

Centurion photo checklist https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49237-anh-stunt-centurion-visual-checklist-2024/

 

 

 

[Andor_FX[TK]]

vor 9 Stunden schrieb gmrhodes13:

your images are a little small, very hard to magnify to see details, larger size/resolution would be preferred.

Please click 2 times further an you have the full resolution (postimages)

[Nairy[Staff]]

Wonderful armor! I think it looks great! The brow trim could be shortened a teeny tiny bit I think!

[Nairy[Staff]]

2 hours ago, Andor_FX said:

 

Detonator could be rotated slightly to see more of the O detail.  must be printed new

You don't need to print a new detonator? Only push and bend down the metal brackets so that it doesn't sit rotated as high up as it does now, if you'd bend it down, we'd see more of the O detail from the back! 

[Andor_FX[TK]]

vor einer Stunde schrieb Nairy:

You don't need to print a new detonator? Only push and bend down the metal brackets so that it doesn't sit rotated as high up as it does now, if you'd bend it down, we'd see more of the O detail from the back! 

Thank you Jonatan, I got the same idea, but if I do this, the gap between the armor and the detonator will be increased... ? I´ll give it a try.

[Andor_FX[TK]]

vor 1 Stunde schrieb Nairy:

Wonderful armor! I think it looks great! The brow trim could be shortened a teeny tiny bit I think!

Thank you very much Jonatan, also for the tipp with the brow.

[Andor_FX[TK]]

vor 1 Stunde schrieb gmrhodes13:

By all means once basic approved look at applying for L2 EIB then on to L3 Centurion, there are only a few items here and there that would need adjusting are adding (Han snap) 

Thank you very much Glen, I will considering going this way.
The velcro on the gloves is now removed and this area is overpainted allready.


  

[Andor_FX[TK]]

I I'm wondering if there's a reference somewhere in this forum that can help me install the so-called "Han Snap." So far, I've found out that the hardware is an inverted "male snap" and that it's located on the right side in the upper corner of the abdomen plate. I'd appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Sometimes referred to as the "Han" snap, for Level 3 a single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present.  Note in the photos that it is the bottom of the snap that faces outward and is not painted.  This is also sometimes referred to as the "Han" snap.

 

            

 

 

Position is approximate 10mm in from the edge, 20mm from top

 

[Slouch[TK]]

Looking great - well done on the build! 

 

My only recommendation would be to trim down the screws inside your helmet that are holding your lens / ears. It's not essential, but just from a safety perspective if you happen to fall or cop a knock to the head.

 

If you do trim them, I'd remove them from the helmet first then cut down. I've heard using a Dremel to cut them down can transfer heat through the screw into the plastic, so best to avoid.

 

It looks like you're well on your way to not only approval, but also on the right path for EIB and Centurion if you want to go down that path!

 

[Andor_FX[TK]]

Thank you very much all. I will soon upload new photos showing that I have hopefully implemented all your tips and valuable feedback.

[Andor_FX[TK]]

Today I would like to show my 2nd wave of pictures with further improvements. As allways, feedback is very wellcome. For full res pictures, pleaase click 2 more times and you will be directed to postimages.

 ----------  FULL ARMOR VIEW 2nd WAVE ----------
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 29 by Andor_FX

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work, looing smart, fire away with your GML 

 

Hope we see you approved very soon, then on to EIB 

[Andor_FX[TK]]

vor 17 Stunden schrieb gmrhodes13:

Nice work, looing smart, fire away with your GML 

 

Hope we see you approved very soon, then on to EIB 

Thank you very much for yor Support. Happy that I am on final approach.

[Tall_Trooper[Staff]]

Looking great Andreas!

[Andor_FX[TK]]

Thank you all. I have send my approval request to my local GMOs. Now waiting for response with feedback.... I let you know!

[Morgi[Staff]]

Good luck! 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

14 hours ago, Andor_FX said:

Thank you all. I have send my approval request to my local GMOs. Now waiting for response with feedback.... I let you know!

Great to hear and good luck.

 

Once TK approved you can request higher access here, make sure you read the instructions in the first post, this will open up TK only merchandise and links to EIB and Centurion programs

[Andor_FX[TK]]

Hello fellow troopers,

 

I received feedback from my GMOs today.
Unfortunately, I'm still too far from a basic approval.

Here's a brief summary:

• The S-trim on the helmet (at the back) is misaligned. (okay easy task)
• The undersuit wrinkles at the elbows (possibly too loose). (may be a new shirt will solve this)
• The detonator, as a printed part, is too crisp; it needs to be vacuum-formed.
• The right side of the biceps is too loose.
• The back armor sits too low, resulting in too a large gap to the shoulder bridge.
• The back straping of the torso will likely need to be completely redesigned.
• The shoulder bridges would be far too long after adjusting the back armor and would need to be shortened accordingly.

My motivation is currently low, this is mainly due to the back piece, as I'm unsure how to solve it (partly because the shoulder bridges need to be shortened).

Feedback is, as always, very welcome.

My biggest issue is, how to fix this?
Is it allowed to cut away 1 inch of the end of the shoulder bridges?
The result will be that the end will look quite different, because the last segment shold be a longer piece.




biceps to wide and undersuit wrinkled



TD do not match with originals, to crisp

 

Edited February 15 by Andor_FX

[T-Jay[TK]]

Hi Andreas,

you can rotate the S-trim on the helmet to have the ends meet at the vocoder. That protects from having one side hanging lower and also makes the joint invisible.

Yes, a tighter undersuit shirt seems to be required. Also check the legs before you buy. 

The biceps can be cut smaller or you can first try to insert thin foam on both insides for a more centered appearance. Maybe that does the job.

 

Bigger issues are: the back armor sitting too low and the position of the shoulder bridges.
Here I would suggest to redo the torso strapping to bring everything higher, except the chest plate. Shorten (or reposition) the straps to have the upper ends of your back plate almost meet the upper ends of your chest plate. This should work but will require a repositioning of the shoulder bridges. Move them more towards the front, so you won't have to cut them - which would other cause problems.

[Andor_FX[TK]]

vor 2 Stunden schrieb T-Jay:

This should work but will require a repositioning of the shoulder bridges. Move them more towards the front, so you won't have to cut them - which would other cause problems.

Thank you very much Tino, this was the hint I was looking for. 
What do I do with the shoulder bridges? Can I just cut a few centimeters off the back end so they fit the length? I'm asking because the end pieces look slightly different from the other segments of the bridge.
 I cant move the shoulder bridges more to the front, because I have glued them on with superglue. Removing them may be cause damage. I have done this before on one side and it was a disaster.

Repositioning the backplate and adjusting the strapping (longer straps to bring the backplate up) will result in a wider gap between backplate and kidneyplate, is that acceptable?
 

Edited February 16 by Andor_FX

[T-Jay[TK]]

Okay, I have some ideas but it would be easier to explain them on the phone, than here in written English.

I will drop you a PM with my cell phone number, so we can discuss this whenever you feel comfortable to go on.