MTK ANH Stunt Build by F943

[F943[501st]]

Hello all from Japanese Garrison!!

I was very kindly given some MTK armour from a fellow Garrison member, he started trimming the kit but I think he decided to quit because it was all too much for him.
After finally having some time I managed to get round to trimming and sanding the kit ready for gluing, I've never built a TK before so it's all new to me.

 

 

I've only just noticed the magnet seems to have moved up since I last looked, it wasn't like that when I set it yesterday. As I haven't got many of them I'll be slowly gluing bits together, it will also stop me rushing the job.

The Helmet was already assembled when I received it but I did some quick adjustments to lift the frown a bit as I might convert it to a Sandtrooper. Hopefully it's all fine.
I'm also debating whether to hand paint the decals or just use stickers, both have their pros and cons I believe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I noticed for the eyes that they might have been over trimmed at the top part so there's a bit of a gap between the abs and lenses. Would this be an issue do you think?
I was thinking of gluing some spare ABS in place and using abs paste to fill the gaps. Or forking out some money and just buying a new face plate.

 

 

I mean from the front you can't really see it but I just wanted to check.

 

Thanks in advance!

[Sithping[TK]]

Hi Chris, congrats on your new ownership of white armour!

Here's a link to help you get started. 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Hello and welcome aboard, just a couple of things you could improve on.

 

• Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek.

 

 

You could try to round of the tops of the black area on the vocoder. Also add white paint to the rim of your hovi tips.

• Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white.

        

 

 

              

 

 

Also watch any paint on the gums

Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. 

 

 

 

 

You could get away with the eyes, however I would try to reduce the gap between the helmet and lens

 

 

[F943[501st]]

I had a go at removing the frown paint, hopefully it's ok.

 

 

 

And just to confirm for the stripes that they are supposed to start from here? (That's glue on the pencil not snot, honest).

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

12 hours ago, F943 said:

I had a go at removing the frown paint, hopefully it's ok.

And just to confirm for the stripes that they are supposed to start from here? (That's glue on the pencil not snot, honest).

Teeth look much better.

 

Tube stripes spacing is generally a pencil width as your image now shows BUT it's only an "ideal" position, you would probably get basic and L2 approval how they are now, you would need to adjust them for L3 though  

• Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek.

[F943[501st]]

Just a quick update, still gluing the arm pieces together, I'm taking it slowly and doing inside seams also for added strength.

I also finally fixed both the eyes so the lenses will be closer now. Not exactly easy but worth it in the end.

Just had to make a quick template then cut and glue in place. fill the gap with abs paste, sand and then paint using Mr Colour gloss white followed by Mr Colour thinner to give it that nice smooth texture.

 

 

 

 

 

I don't really want to do anything like that again, it's a pain in the a very impolite person to do.

As far as the decals go I think I might do hand painted after seeing Cableguy's youtube tutorials. I only just found out he passed away

 

Also I probably might end up just doing a sandtrooper instead of converting it after. Please don't hate me oh shiny ones.

[F943[501st]]

Slowly getting there, finished the arms nearly, just waiting for the inner strips to properly dry and that's it, did a quick test fit and they're perfect. I've started on the legs and just glued the the Ab plates in place. 

I haven't built up the courage to paint the helmet and buttons yet, also Fallout 1 is stealing my time at the moment.

 

 

 

I think I might just stick with a TK now....

[F943[501st]]

Been a while, farming just got busy and then couldn't get back into the groove of things afterwards until now.

Finally finished the helmet and have more magnets ordered so I can finish the thigh pieces. Man they're such a pain to do.

 

 

 

[F943[501st]]

Currently gluing the back cover strip on the last thigh and working on doing the sniper plate and ammo belt.

With the ammo belt is it ok to cut where the pencil lines are and round off? Not sure if it's too much or not.

 

 

With the sniper plate, what exactly do i need to trim and cut? The previous owner did some rough trimming. 
What's the general shape the side bits? Flat cut straight down and match the lengths to the shin corner?
Also I take it I don't over trim the return edge?

 

Edited February 7, 2025 by F943

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Ammo plate curve references

 

 

 

Don't trim anymore off the sniper plate 

         

 

[F943[501st]]

I did some slight sanding to clean up the previous cuts and straighten out the lines.

So is this what I should be going for overall? 



And with this side, cut straight down like the pencil line or leave as? Not sure if that would be too short or not?

 

 

 

 

 

8mm split rivets are used for connecting the two I take it? Then painted white.

 

Edited February 7, 2025 by F943

[dblcross[TK]]

5 hours ago, F943 said:

8mm split rivets are used for connecting the two I take it? Then painted white.

 

You are correct! Your knee plate looks perfect.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

6 hours ago, F943 said:

And with this side, cut straight down like the pencil line or leave as? Not sure if that would be too short or not?

 

 

 

 

See if you can lift the front a little so the sides follow the ridge behind. I added a shim of scrap plastic behind.

 

 

   For Level 2 the Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners, and must be aligned with the ridges of the shin.

[F943[501st]]

10 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

See if you can lift the front a little so the sides follow the ridge behind. I added a shim of scrap plastic behind.

 

 

   For Level 2 the Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners, and must be aligned with the ridges of the shin.

 

Thank you.
What about the left hand side that has a horizontal cut? Should I leave that as it is or cut it to match the side ridge?

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hi Chris, nice job with your armor sir.

 

I would recommend to wait till you have reinstalled the sniper knee to the L2-L3 required position an see how much is necessary to trim.

 

[F943[501st]]

 

 

 

 

Is there an easy way to fold the flaps on split rivets? I struggled so much to do it but managed in the end. I know i have to do it for the side of the amour at some point.
Also where is the best place to buy some more without it costing an arm and aleg?

 

 

 

 

 

So i adjusted the angle to match the back ridge but the bottom part sticks out from the shin. Is that normal? If I have it in the previous position it's flat.
I haven't glued it in place yet.
 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

21 hours ago, F943 said:

Is there an easy way to fold the flaps on split rivets? I struggled so much to do it but managed in the end. I know i have to do it for the side of the amour at some point.
Also where is the best place to buy some more without it costing an arm and aleg?

 

Soi adjusted the angle to match the back ridge but the bottom part sticks out from the shin. Is that normal? If I have it in the previous position it's flat.
I haven't glued it in place yet.
 

I open slightly with a flat head screwdriver, then use the post of the screwdriver, hit with hammer, it will splay open.

 

You can have some gap on the front, here's an approved EIB 

[JBar[TK]]

The sniper plate was one of the trickiest parts. I have a WTF kit I just had to use a ton of heavy duty clamps and even then there's still a gap. Still got approved level 3 with it

[F943[501st]]

20 hours ago, JBar said:

The sniper plate was one of the trickiest parts. I have a WTF kit I just had to use a ton of heavy duty clamps and even then there's still a gap. Still got approved level 3 with it

 

It's definitely tricky, i just had to remove the part because it came out all wonky.
How am I supposed to follow the back ridge and keep it from being completely wonky at the same time?? It sort of tilts to one side more than the other. 

[Shanester[TK]]

Your TK is looking fantastic.  Keep up the good work.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

On 2/13/2025 at 11:13 PM, JBar said:

The sniper plate was one of the trickiest parts. I have a WTF kit I just had to use a ton of heavy duty clamps and even then there's still a gap. Still got approved level 3 with it

With my first one I used clamps, magnets and tape to pull straight. You can have a gap under the front so don't worry too much about that, being slightly to one side is fine also, it's more the top to worry about

[F943[501st]]

 

 

 

Well i think I finally managed to get it to match the top sides and make it look ok when seeing it face on.

[F943[501st]]

With regards to strapping, most people seem to use buttons. I was thinking velcro because from what I've seen with the pop buttons or the straps in general is the elastic straps stretch and removing the pieces is a pain. With Velcro i can do minor adjustment for my initial fitting for later on down the road if the elastic is stretching and if the velcro wears out which i doubt will happen anytime soon it's easier to replace.
Has anyone else done this you know?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Quite a few went with the velcro method as that is what Anovos used on their armor kits, albeit some said it was not very strong and upgraded to better industrial strength, I personally find it can be a pain to use as it has no give so very restrictive with big movements.

 

I've had only one issue with my snaps pulling through elastic, this was before I used a solder iron to make the holes which seal the edges making them quite firm and harder to pull through. I do have a set of snaps on elastic set at different positions for minor adjustments, I glue all the snaps/plates on to the armor and test to see which distance works best then make the snaps to that. Elastic does last quite some times as it's not always getting pulled, just standing there there is not much if any strain on the elastic it is only with movement.

 

Either method is fine and approvable up to L3 so entirely up to you.

 

Take a look through some of the anh builds threads, once there search "velcro" or "snaps" you should get quite a few results

 

 

 

[F943[501st]]

 

 

 

 

Well it's that time of year again, time to make more of this suit. 

With regards to the chest straps, is this the general position it should be in and is there a general rule of thumb with the amount of ridges on the front?  Wanted to check before I glued them on properly. 

Aside from this I have managed to acquire a completed RS made Detonator kit from my awesome CO which has helped me a lot, I was planning on making my own but the end caps were cut too short and trying to find replacements at a reasonable price were a struggle. One less job I need to do. 

Also I'm currently gluing in the last strips for the back of the legs. 

Edited February 22 by F943