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Just got my basic clearance

 

 

Now going through changes I need to make for EI and Centurian levels.

 

I know I need to rotate my TD so that the front plate is at the correct angle, which then means I need to re-bend the belt clips so that the top of the TD is flush with the top of the belt.

 

Those of you that have re-bent your TD clips, what's the best method so that you don't snap the aluminium bar as its already been stressed?

 

Thanks,

Rich1185adbb67085025551a4fb9f55ffc84.jpg

 

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This may be easier than you think, Richard.  Can you post up a pic showing a better profile of how the clip wraps around the TD and maybe a few other angles?  

 

 6ah9fw1.jpg

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Hi Joseph,

Here's a few pics.
I have asked Ross at RWA is he can make a couple of clips minus the bends for the belt (he can), but would be fab if I can modify this oneab693f406679eaab2ac660e89f04d572.jpg475a6284b6dc643330b9aa54ddd46a0c.jpg49c694af74d0cf87dba334d51caf1fb7.jpg9f2963d71e68e5f354f070e7d94bde94.jpg0f7c519a68d7a3fd99b866dae0b320b3.jpgfa280cb2fb9ff6750a0bf8e303f0c345.jpg4bb9ab33b5ebbd9511fa33c6ce7f34ce.jpg

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Hi Richard,

 

Just in case, If I can make a suggestion for  "Plan C",    If you used E6000 to glue the TD panel, You could take the panel off , trim a bit the edge, as the image below and rotate it  to the new position .  This is what I did with a recent RWA Armor I built .

 

 

 

 

 

1Yt1oem.jpg

 

 

Reference Images

 

XlNKKrL.jpg?1  VeXjroO.jpg

 

 

:salute:

 

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Hi Richard,
 
Just in case, If I can make a suggestion for  "Plan C",    If you used E6000 to glue the TD panel, You could take the panel off , trim a bit the edge, as the image below and rotate it  to the new position .  This is what I did with a recent RWA Armor I built .
 
 
 
 
 
1Yt1oem.jpg
 
 
Reference Images
 
XlNKKrL.jpg?1  VeXjroO.jpg
 
 
:salute:
 
That would be good, thanks!

I used gorilla glue clear contact adhesive, but it comes apart in a very similar way. Is there a measurement from the bottom of the moulded line or 'O' to the bottom edge of the panel?

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8 minutes ago, CallMeMrTibbles said:

I used gorilla glue clear contact adhesive, but it comes apart in a very similar way. Is there a measurement from the bottom of the moulded line or 'O' to the bottom edge of the panel?

 

As I know and searching into the gallery section I haven't found a measure detail. Mostly we use the to the reference images for an average location.

 

 

  vuyshrT.jpg?2qjuTUQW.jpg    hoye3pt.jpg

 

 

 

 

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I'll have a go at matching the trimming of my plate to more accurately match those ref pics and see what needs to be done after that.

Thanks again

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43 minutes ago, TKSpartan said:

Hi Richard,

 

Just in case, If I can make a suggestion for  "Plan C",    If you used E6000 to glue the TD panel, You could take the panel off , trim a bit the edge, as the image below and rotate it  to the new position .  This is what I did with a recent RWA Armor I built .

 

 

 

 

 

1Yt1oem.jpg

 

 

Reference Images

 

XlNKKrL.jpg?1  VeXjroO.jpg

 

 

:salute:

 

 

On my RWA TD plate the distance between the red lines is 18mm, and the distance between the blue lines is 30mm.

Looking at this pic, even allowing for curvature, I reckon the distance between the blue lines is no more than 5mm more than between the red.

If so I should be able to safely shave 7mm off the bottom of my plate, which would go a long way to bring it in line.

Do you guys think my measurements sound OK?

 

 

XlNKKrLedit.jpg

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18 minutes ago, CallMeMrTibbles said:

Do you guys think my measurements sound OK?

 

 

 

They make sense to me, Being conservative, You could try making a paper mold over the plastic before trimming and compare how it looks. :salute:

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7 minutes ago, CallMeMrTibbles said:

Hey ho. That darn learning curve again

 

 

Oh my goodness!!!  :56pullhair:  What a strong glue !! I'm sorry you have this .

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No worries, it's not the worst that could happen. I can use the old one to get the correct dimensions making the new one easier to get right. Every mistake is an opportunity to learn, right?

There are no induction events scheduled in the UK yet anyway, so I may as well use this time to go for the advanced levels (and document my mistakes along the way)

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1 minute ago, CallMeMrTibbles said:

No worries, it's not the worst that could happen. I can use the old one to get the correct dimensions making the new one easier to get right. Every mistake is an opportunity to learn, right? emoji1.png

 

I think the same as you Richard. Great attitude Trooper!!  keep  up the great work!  :jc_doublethumbup:  

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Ignoring the blue tape and cracked plate , I'm thinking this looks a lot better, but is it correct?

72fb4e7328766d7a0ee012cb22d50bfa.jpg

b9c38d8cf75048069b775ef546f1a4ac.jpg

a4cd43bf128556da0918114fbd4689c1.jpg

b1d9c3e686d78d844d563ba5c518ee70.jpg

As close to looking vertically down on it as I can

c039d78846c1ae0a522dc0ddc71beee6.jpg

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There is no specific measurement, try to emulate references, you can work out from this image the measurement is less than 1/4 or the pipe diameter 

gallery_12157_51_33329.thumb.jpg.e00b926ac8077a3bf79f004686ee8abe.jpg

 

Here is the gallery for detonator images

 

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24 minutes ago, CallMeMrTibbles said:

Quick question re the metal clips themselves....

Is there a specified or desired distance between the two holes on each clip?

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Hi Richard, as Glenn pointed correctly, there's no an specific measured distance mentioned in the crl , however , the reference images  shows a good idea of where they should go.

 

I would suggest to mark with some non permanent marker the position you think they would go and compare with the references.

 

5h9TTSY.jpg

 

VoclqHR.jpg

 

:salute:

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Richard, as Glenn pointed correctly, there's no an specific measured distance mentioned in the crl , however , the reference images  shows a good idea of where they should go.
 
I would suggest to mark with some non permanent marker the position you think they would go and compare with the references.
 
5h9TTSY.jpg
 
VoclqHR.jpg
 
:salute:
 
 
 
 
 
 
Ok, cool. Thanks

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