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trooper96

ANH E11 BLASTER 3D MODEL

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A few years ago, I bought a Sterling SMG Mark IV L2A3 parts kit. My plan was to create molds to reproduce accurate parts to build a few blasters. My efforts were only partially successful. Frustrated, I abandoned the project and set the kit aside.

 

Fast forward, and last year a friend of mine bought a 3D printer. By trade, I am a mechanical designer with access to a very nice piece of modeling software, SolidWorks. I decided the way to move forward on my quest to acquire an extremely accurate E11 blaster would be to develop 3D models by measuring parts from my kit and having my friend print them.

 

I researched information on the accessories that transformed a Sterling into an E11. Lots of good stuff out there. I bought a replica 1943 M38 tank scope and modeled that. Same for t-tracks and power cylinders. The only thing I couldn’t find a satisfactory level of detail on, was the Hengstler counter. In full disclosure, I borrowed one from Thingiverse.

 

I am attaching some pictures of the complete model. I would appreciate any feedback you could offer.

 

TK-14082

Carolina Garrison

 

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MARVELOUS work trooper96 - from wing stubs on the power cylinders to military markings, even your end cap clip has the grip pattern. No knurling pattern on the front sight though

 

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Yeah, still trying to figure out how to make the modeling software wrap that pattern around multiple surfaces. I’ll try to add that feature later.


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Yeah, still trying to figure out how to make the modeling software wrap that pattern around multiple surfaces. I’ll try to add that feature later.


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Your approach is very thorough, very admirable

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Absolutely fantastic! This must have taken you some time to get this level of detail. Great job again!

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Wow, great work Bryan. Do you think you can maybe hollow the area between the folding stock and the trigger group?

Just thought this would save some weight, printing material and time.  :)

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

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1 hour ago, T-Jay said:

Wow, great work Bryan. Do you think you can maybe hollow the area between the folding stock and the trigger group?

Just thought this would save some weight, printing material and time.  :)

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

Thanks. It could be done. My thought here was more to strengthen the fragile plastic arms on the folding stock. In this regard, the design intent was more to make a durable "trooping blaster" than the more aesthetically pleasing separated folding stock. You may note I did the same with the scope rail, adding a filler/support between it and the receiver body. I am not opposed to separating the folding stock in another version of the blaster. It would probably mean printing the folding stock separately from the main body and making a provision for anchoring the front end underneath the barrel shroud. After printing the prototype (which is now underway), I will have a better idea about what changes to make in the next iteration.

Edited by trooper96
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I made a couple of modifications to the model. I added a knurling to the front sight guard and a scope rail retaining screw.

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Just for fun, here’s the blaster without the solid supports for the folding stock and scope rail.

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I made a couple of modifications to the model. I added a knurling to the front sight guard and a scope rail retaining screw.

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Most excellent !

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Fabulous work !!! I wish I had a 3D printer !

I'm not an expert but I see just a little thing disturbing me : the grip should be more rounded. The one you draw comes from an airsoft, or an MGC Sterling (ROTJ), not from a L2A3 sterling (ANH, ESB).

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Edited by Moussvroum
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12 minutes ago, Moussvroum said:

Fabulous work !!! I wish I had a 3D printer !

Just a little thing : the grip is more rounded. The one you draw comes from an airsoft, or an MGC Sterling (ROTJ), not from a L2A3 sterling (ANH, ESB).

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When I was modeling the grip, I used the largest radius  could on the edge that still allowed the width of the grip texture to remain. I can take another look at it, but I’m not sure how much larger I can make it.

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When I was modeling the grip, I used the largest radius  could on the edge that still allowed the width of the grip texture to remain. I can take another look at it, but I’m not sure how much larger I can make it.

I think I have an idea how to round out the front, back, and bottom surfaces of the grip. Stay tuned.


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Thanks for the tip about the grip design. I did some work on the grip today. Actually, I started over because the rounded edges on the first model caused subsequent features to fail when I tried to suppress them. It’s all good, though. I’m much happier with the new model.

 

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Just got this photo from the guy printing the blaster for me. I’ve got a very good feeling about this!

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I’ve got to say these E11 3D models are looking fantastic, nice work Bryan.


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I acquired a Creality CR-10S printer a little over a week ago, and started printing my model. I divided the main body into 4 parts to accommodate the printer bed size. I will print attachments and accessories separately. I’m printing on the highest resolution setting, so it’s taking a LOOOOOOONG time. Here’s a little progress...

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Left rear quadrant of the blaster on the printer.

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Looking good, are you going to paint it up and use as a trooping blaster or just for fun piece?


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It’s really my prototype for this model. I’ll see what came out good and what needs improvement. There have been a few details that need attention, but on the whole, I’m very pleased with the way it looks so far. I could definitely see myself trooping with this blaster.


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Left side complete. The pictures are just a mock-up held together with gorilla tape. No glue yet.

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Not the finished product yet, but I was especially pleased with how some of the debossed text on the blaster came out.

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It would be really great Bryan, if you could add to your first post, what printer you are using and some of the settings you chose for this print.

Layer height

Print speed

Print temp for the material you used, and any basic info you think will be of help to others that may attempt this print.

Keep up the great work, and you really should consider cross posting this in our 3D section too.

Edited by Sly11
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