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staermose

What the heehaw am I doing wrong?! (A DD pipe dream)

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Just started, and I already done something wrong... apparently...

I want to build my first E-11, and have ordered Doopydoo's kit to build on a pipe. So far so good. I didn't mess that part up... I think...
And have cut a piece of steel tube to fit all the parts on. Most likely with an epoxy.

I need to prep the steel tube, by drilling a gazillion holes. And that isn't the problem, I have access to drill presses and other fancy shop gear.

To figure out where all the holes I will cover with T-track will go, I found a guide online, and printet it out. As far as I can tell I printet it in 100%.
The length of 8" is right, and the 0.5" holes are indeed 0.5".
But when i wrap this around my tube, the print is too long. Please see attached pictures.

Where did I go wrong?
can anybody help me solve this?

BXmPvJc.jpg
U9rRAqC.jpg

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The holes look entirely too large, Jakob.  .05 inches is about 14 mm, and they should be right at 1 cm.

 

MDZ4ARb.jpg?1

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Also, double check you print based on the paper size of the document.

So no stretch-to-fit and no manual fit adjustment to paper size you specify.

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

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Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
I'm a trained graphic artist for 25 years, so the printing part I should be able to get correct.

I measured the tube several times  after I posted this, just to be sure the outer diameter was correct. It was spot on! The inner wall thickness was roughly the intended thickness, being shy of just 0.1mm of what I can read is optimum.

 

The size of the print should be correct, and so should all the holes on the print. It wasn't printet out of aspect either.
In the end I just gave up on finding out what the issue was. And redrew everything in Adobe Illustrator. And got a print that wrapped perfectly.

The tube has been cut, and the holes has been drilled. It is still in a very rough state, and will need to have burrs and cutting grease removed. I ran out of time yesterday.

I appreciate all you suggestions, and have also tried out all those. But I apparently can't figure what I did wrong with the original print.
I will soldier on, and post updates, and meltdowns as they occur! :D 

Edited by staermose
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Now that the issue is solved (sorry for being too late to help) you should ask an Admin to re-name your thread and turn this into a nice build thread. What about that?

 

You might think there are enough DoopyDoo's builds already, but most people use the full resin kit. You chose the pipe kit and that is always interesting to watch.

Edited by T-Jay

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7 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

Now that the issue is solved (sorry for being too late to help) you should ask an Admin to re-name your thread and turn this into a nice build thread. What about that?

 

You might think there are enough DoopyDoo's builds already, but most people use the full resin kit. You chose the pipe kit and that is always interesting to watch.

Excellent call, Tino!  What about "Jakob's Doopydoos/pipe E-11 build" or something along those lines?   I can change the title, just let me know what what you would like it to be, Jakob.

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1 minute ago, T-Jay said:

Now that the issue is solved (sorry for being too late to help) you should ask an Admin to re-name your thread and turn this into a nice build thread. What about that?

 

You might think there are enough DoopyDoo's builds already, but most people use the full resin kit. You chose the pipe kit and that is always interesting to watch.

You think this is the only blunder I'll make?! ;)
For now the title makes sense.

I prefer the pipe version, as it allows for a hollow version, which I find will look closer to the prop versions.

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Blunders are all part of this crazy hobby, Jalob.  I can't count the number of mistakes I made in my first armor and blaster builds, lol.  I think the reason Tino suggested the title change it is that if someone is looking to also do a DD/pipe build in the future it makes it easier to find in the topics section.  We all learn from each other's mishaps, which makes it easier for the next person.  "Troopers helping Troopers"! :)

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48 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said:

Excellent call, Tino!  What about "Jakob's Doopydoos/pipe E-11 build" or something along those lines?   I can change the title, just let me know what what you would like it to be, Jakob.

Thanks for the offer.

Can you alter the headlien to read:

"What the heehaw am I doing wrong?! A DD pipe dream"

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"Pipe dream".. Clever!!  Done! 

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It is far from perfect. Several holes are misaligned. But it is the first major thing I've ever done in metal, and for that I'm quite satisfied.
I still need to make some notches. And enlarge three of the front holes. But for now, it is going ok I think.

Still waiting on parts from... all over the world. I've ordered a bit more than just the DD kit. ;)

ugWEIXT.jpg

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Small update. This will be a slooow build. As I'm also finishing a Masters in Industrial Design.
Besides the steel pipe, which still need at lot of work, and a lot more holes. I have ordered the following:

A DD resin kit. https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-pipe-blaster-base-detailing-kit-2068-p.asp

Wannawanga T-tracks https://wannawanga.com/products/t-track/
More small finishing parts from T-Jay https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/

A whole heap of electronics from eBay. Waaay toooo many links to list.
I have made 3d files of the Hengstler Counter and teh M38 scope, and will soon be printing these. I have chosen this option to make them hollow.
The Hengstler to be able to install speakers and electronics inside. The scope to make light pass through, and give a better effect of it being an actual scope.

But all of these are still in transit.
The build will pick up some speed i the beginning of next year

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7 minutes ago, staermose said:

(...)   I have made 3d files of the Hengstler Counter and teh M38 scope, and will soon be printing these. I have chosen this option to make them hollow.

The Hengstler to be able to install speakers and electronics inside. The scope to make light pass through, and give a better effect of it being an actual scope.   (...)

Hm, not sure if you knew, but scopes and counters are both available with hollowed body to install electronics. See here:

FS: Bulldog Props M38 & M19 Resin Scope Kits and the version 2 counter from the completion sets.

 

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11 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

Hm, not sure if you knew, but scopes and counters are both available with hollowed body to install electronics. See here:

FS: Bulldog Props M38 & M19 Resin Scope Kits and the version 2 counter from the completion sets.

 

Thank you, but as I have access to free 3D printing, I will use that option for now.
My models might not be perfect, and a few small details have been omitted, and some smaller holes will have to be drilled after it has been printed.
But I think I can make them work.

Aj5lhp6.png

D3kdYc3.png 

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Your build approach with so many differing elements really speaks of your design background.

I too have opted for the slow and steady build approach, although at times, it does feel like I'm stuck in third year with no sight of graduation, if you catch my drift.

May you focus all the more on your build targets and get things done in stages.

Cheers!

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

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7 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

Your build approach with so many differing elements really speaks of your design background.

I too have opted for the slow and steady build approach, although at times, it does feel like I'm stuck in third year with no sight of graduation, if you catch my drift.

May you focus all the more on your build targets and get things done in stages.

Cheers!

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
 

Thank you. I think it also reflects that i have been a model builder for more than 30 years. 
One aspect my modelling background will reflect will be the paint job. I will use several different types of black and metallics. To show that the original props was assembled from bits and pieces. 
The T-tracks will remains unpainted, to show the black rubbery quality.
The handle will be gloss black, as the original was a plastic type. Perhaps bakelite.
I will paint the majority of the Sterling L2A3's body parts with crinkle paint.
The M38 scope, although 3D printed will have added cast texture to the main body. And will be painted to show some of the "brass" underneath the black paint.
Only parts that was metal on the original prop, will have paint chips that shows silver og gunmetal underneath.

And there will be added dust, oils, and gloss wear and tear, where appropriate.

I feel that this approach will give my prop replica more of a feeling that it is grounded in real world items. '
I have seen some builds that use the same flat black for all parts. And paint chipping that shows the same metal underneath all parts. I think this approach is also valid. It just tells a different story, that I want with mine. :)

Edited by staermose
Spelling, and forgot some lines.
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1 hour ago, staermose said:

(...)   The T-tracks will remains unpainted, to show the black rubbery quality.
The handle will be gloss black, as the original was a plastic type. Perhaps bakelite.
I will paint the majority of the Sterling L2A3's body parts with crinkle paint.
The M38 scope, although 3D printed will have added cast texture to the main body. And will be painted to show some of the "brass" underneath the black paint.
Only parts that was metal on the original prop, will have paint chips that shows silver og gunmetal underneath.

And there will be added dust, oils, and gloss wear and tear, where appropriate.   (...)

Jakob, you got it!  :jc_doublethumbup: Popcorn is ready...

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The project isn't dead. But had to be put on pause due to exam.
I have gotten a lot of the parts I need, and ordered some I won't need after all.
I have an extra of DD's M38 scope and Hengstler counter. Both will be 3D printed instead. As I want to make them hollow.
The Hengstler to be able to put electronics and speakers inside.
And the Scope, just to let light pass through.

I had previously made the geometry in 3D, but wasn't fully satisfied. So tonight I redrew the files again.
Some parts aren't included, as they will come from other sources.  Such as the screws (from T-Jay's parts set), and the lenses I got from another place.
And as I was already doing the files, I thought I'd some fun and made a render of them.

I haven't yet put text on the rear of the scope. I'm not fully decided if I want this part 'on screen accurate', or 'in universe style'. For the latter I imagine doing them in aurebesh letters, instead of latin letters.

tY9Nr1O.png

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9 hours ago, staermose said:

(...)   I haven't yet put text on the rear of the scope. I'm not fully decided if I want this part 'on screen accurate', or 'in universe style'. For the latter I imagine doing them in aurebesh letters, instead of latin letters.   (...)

Crazy cool idea. :)

Maybe its just the angle of the photo, but that 'tear-shaped' indentation on the side looks a bit small. Will you also add a number there?

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4 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Crazy cool idea. :)

Maybe its just the angle of the photo, but that 'tear-shaped' indentation on the side looks a bit small. Will you also add a number there?

Thanks.
The tear should be the right size, but id not I can make it bigger when then prints are done.

I'll compare it to my DD casting of the M38.

I might add a number there, numbers are after all canon. Just haven't fully decided yet wether or not one will go there or not. Or even which number.

 

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