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Mupfel

Mupfel’s E11 Blaster Build (with Doopydoo’s Resin Kit + T-Jays Completion Kit + 3D Print Additions + Arduino Electronics)

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Thanks guys...

At the moment i am working on the spring and how to get all the cables through although the spring is moving...


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Thanks guys...

At the moment i am working on the spring and how to get all the cables through although the spring is moving...


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I recall one builder, fairly recent, describing he would attempt to manage electronics with a functioning spring by inserting a hollow tube inside the spring and having the electronics sit inside the tube. Such that when the spring is engaged, the tube and electronics inside remain stationary.

There must be a series of related considerations that need to be taken into account to make this work this way ... ponder and execute with baby steps and caution.

Happy researching and wishing you wise approaches on this challenge.

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

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Thanks for the input !

Believe it or not, at the moment i am testing with a tube already :-)...


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Got some progress today... started the cylinders and prepared the USB docking to hold the spring...

 

To avoid that the spring pushes the USB docking out of the riffle, i placed screws at the end of the blaster...

 

W2ChL7Q.jpg

K9CuaI1.jpg

 

 

 

Two question to you guys...

 

Can somebody please tell me or post a picture where the screws of the cylinders are visible? I searched plenty of threads but the important pictures are always dark at that particular area. The front of the cylinder screws I have already done as you can see... i am talking about the back screws.
 

The same for the area below of the back cylinder screws. In Tinos kit i can find this red insulation piece. Where exactly do i need to put it?

 

pCwkwYb.jpg
4LClDwK.jpg
NpjKLvZ.jpg
 

 

 

Thanks a lot in advance!

 

As always, thanks for reading and commenting.

Edited by Mupfel

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3 hours ago, Mupfel said:

Two question to you guys...

 

Can somebody please tell me or post a picture where the screws of the cylinders are visible? I searched plenty of threads but the important pictures are always dark at that particular area. The front of the cylinder screws I have already done as you can see... i am talking about the back screws.
 

The same for the area below of the back cylinder screws. In Tinos kit i can find this red insulation piece. Where exactly do i need to put it?

 

pCwkwYb.jpg
4LClDwK.jpg
NpjKLvZ.jpg
 

 

 

Thanks a lot in advance!

 

As always, thanks for reading and commenting.

Hi Marko,

 

did you already check this power cylinders thread?

E11 power cylinders research thread

 

Or Tino's Lucky#Eleven thread?

Lucky#11 update 22 - the power cylinders

 

Best regards, 

Patrick

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Hi Marko,

 

yes please see the post Patrick has posted for Tino’s lucky eleven power cylinders. The bolts and nuts are set up the same as on the front of the cylinders. 

Edited by Bulldog44
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Thanks a lot guys, i obviously did not read the cylinder thread carefully enough... i found it :-)


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Next step on the agenda was the spring and the USB port. Unfortunately, as you can see on the picture below, the diameter of the USB port is to thick, so the spring cannot be placed to the end of the blaster, it would touch the USB port in a position were it is visible.

 

eleSTP0.jpg?2

 

I decided to sand it down until the spring gets over the ports...

 

c3bhGW8.jpg

nvBDctK.jpg?2

mBIaFvN.jpg?2

fodQjeN.jpg?2

What do you guys think, are the dimensions of the spring and the other components ok?

 

Thanks for commenting and reading.

 

Edited by Mupfel

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Next step on the agenda was the spring and the USB port. Unfortunately, as you can see on the picture below, the diameter of the USB port is to thick, so the spring cannot be placed to the end of the blaster, it would touch the USB port in a position were it is visible.
 
eleSTP0.jpg?2&key=11797ceea68239a70b33c150ce7faf1bb29cb03fe5b3c46d870a82dd5938ec89
 
I decided to sand it down until the spring gets over the ports...
 
c3bhGW8.jpg&key=5ef9d41457b7a96985abe48c7e956ed576cf0c6808c8fa16eef86eb7abacb898
nvBDctK.jpg?2&key=d7e5d6708b459a6ab47b7c331520fd57c6295afd0aaae50e0b31f7322c03791a
mBIaFvN.jpg?2&key=c03de9870587699b279174f943f173e7e2a3a4c0aabeb95322d09df490b8bbdb
fodQjeN.jpg?2&key=78a8074cdf92b86ed1f8ed9581ec1ad0cc76b3121fb9948e17cdb0020adfe55e
What do you guys think, are the dimensions of the spring and the other components ok?
 
Thanks for commenting and reading.
 
Nice!! The back end of that piece is made to fit and now...perhaps later give it a flat black paint job so it's well hidden?

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Yes, painting it black is the plan until now :-)


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Great idea and good solution. :duim:

16 hours ago, Mupfel said:

(...)   What do you guys think, are the dimensions of the spring and the other components ok?   (...)

Would suggest to check some reference photos. The amount of visible coils seems a lot to me, maybe you can stretch the spring and then shorten it to compensate this.

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Hi folks,

 

thanks for the appreciation and the help, I am getting from you guys!

 

Some time went by and i was able to go on working with some things on the blaster.

The power cylinders were the last part i was working at.

 

The cylinders got its wires at the front now... in addition to that i finished the screws at the cylinders directly as well.
8rUjbSSg.jpg

 

 

 

As i did not find the correct size of resistors for the braided wire sleeving, i decided to get a wooden piece and sand it down to the needed size.

we6uI2b.jpg

KnlsMYz.jpg

 

 

Here we are, the finished product :-)... thanks again to Tino who reacted very quickly on sending another insulation to me, really appreciate that!

 

6CTqpKA.jpg

 

 

 

In addition to that i worked on attaching the end cab clip to the blaster. Still, my goal, to have every part attached in a removable way, is valid.

The cab clip is attached with two screws. I counterbored them, to not having problems with the function of the clip itself.

wNSDqGF.jpg

hE6JcJI.jpg

 

 

Another part has been started, the metal folding stock. I removed the old riffle part from in between of the folding stock. Next step will be, adding it to the blaste itself.

8hQlkH0.jpg

 

 

One question at the end, does anybody know, if anyone of the 3D printing experts are offering the front sight for buying? Mine is broken and although i fixed it with metal pins, it is very instable.

vAp8u5r.jpg

 

 

Thanks for your help and time!

 

Marko

Edited by Mupfel
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Hi Marko, the power cylinders look great and that was a crazy cool idea to build the resistors from wood. :duim:

 

Not sure about 3D printed front sight guards, but @fieldmarshalloffers his aluminum version and you could also contact Derrek (@Dday) to ask for a resin version.

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Good progress on the power cylinders! :jc_doublethumbup:

That metal folding stock looks great but I already spent so much time on the resin one that I think I’ll stick with that.

I hope that one of Tino’s suggestions will solve your front sight guard problem.

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Thanks guys, yes, just right after i postet this post yesterday, i saw Fieldmarshalls‘ post :-)

I think i will go for that one
:-)


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2 hours ago, Mupfel said:

Thanks guys, yes, just right after i postet this post yesterday, i saw Fieldmarshalls‘ post :-)

I think i will go for that one
:-)


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Love your build!    i do have all the parts in alum if you get stuck on the tougher parts just check out my sites ...  

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Hi guys,

 

i was able to invest some time to go on with the blaster build.
This time, I focused on the Hengstler counter and its electronics.
The power level indicator and the display, to show in which fire mode I am and how much ammo I still have, need to be placed very precisely.

First, I shaped out the two holes that are needed to hold the two displays. AAs well, a hole for the cables is needed.

 

BM6R0jI.jpg?1

pxwwVTR.jpg

 

 

 

Two cover the displays with Plexiglass, I shaped an additional level around the holes to hold the glasses.

 

zBudjxD.jpg?1

8Cy6ayD.jpg?1

 

 

The glasses have been cut out of a 3 mm Plexiglas unit. With sandpaper I was able to get the correct fit.

 

9G4RRtK.jpg?1

CDtC5th.jpg?1

dDxzpsd.jpg?1

8CV6bRJ.jpg?1

 

 

I hope, you guys will have a nice weekend ;-)!

 

 

Thanks for reading and commenting!

 

 

 

 

Edited by Mupfel
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You have definitely added your own creative flair here Marko with your display off to the side of the hengstler counter. That's a first I've seen here on the FISD; way to trail blaze! I'm sure it will look really cool with your custom plexiglass solution overtop.

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Thanks Draco, yes, i thought, when you are holding the blaster normally, you will not be able to see the power level indicator if it is on the backside. You look at it from the top, that is why i put it there.

 

Today, some more little updates.

 

Added some green stuff to cover the plexiglass. In addition to that i added the power level indicator led as well...

 

tPFtj0H.jpg?1

Kg6Mu1e.jpg?1

wbFD3CF.jpg

 

 

Have a great start in the upcoming week !

 

Marko

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Nice work Marko. This will be interesting to see when its all finished.  For the openings you cut out for the displays, will you be able to frame the open window area so you can't see the cut edges? Just worried the uneven edges might be visible. 

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Thanks, yes, the uneven edges will be covered by the paint. I will use tape to cover the exact size of the display. Before, i will paint the inside black.
After the paint is done i will remove the tape and the only thing you will see ist the display, even if you look from the side, as everything is painted black inside.


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It is going on with covering the Hengstler Counter with tape to do the inner painting.

Before, a function check of all displays has been done, to make sure, before i close down the displays, everything is working as expected.

0DnU9qV.jpg?1

i57ErTG.jpg?1

 

 

 

After the painting was done, I used Green Stuff to fix the displays at their positions. I am not using that much of the Green Stuff, as if the display is not working again, it should be exchangable.

E3Kolxv.jpg?1

 

 

The next challenge is, to get the display untransparent (milky), that the display is not seen when everything is done.

I am doing this with sanding the Plexi Glass.

PfHhBk2.jpg

 

Meanwhile i am getting more and more exctited as the paintjob is coming up soon :-)

 

Thanks for reading and commenting!

 

Marko

Edited by Mupfel
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Curious to see this counter in action when it is finished.

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As i was courios about it, i did a quick test... as a foretaste of how it will look like :-)

 

ez9IjYq.jpg

zRSkjXj.jpg

 

Still not satisfied with the milky glas... will check and try to get this done better...

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