andylah[TK] Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) TK42542 requesting ANH Stunt EIB status (RT-Mod) Name: Andy Price 501st Id: TK-42542 Name FISD forum: andylah GARRISON: Southern Cross Garrison 501st STATUS: http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=17904 Required information Armor Maker: RT Mod Helmet Maker: RT Mod Blaster Type: Doopy Doos Height: 175cm Weight: 95 kg Boots Maker: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt: Trooper Bay Hand plates: Trooper Bay latex Neck Seal: Trooper Bay Holster Maker: Gazmosis Front arms at Side Back arms at side Left arm raised Right Arm raised Front Bucket Off Right Side detail Left Side Detail Ab Details Action Shot Cod and Butt Plate Attachment Interior strapping arm strapping Helmet Front Helmet Back Helmet Side(s) and Green lenses Helmet hovimics Hand Plates/Gloves Knee Plate Blaster Left Blaster Right Neck Seal Thermal Detonator Belt Holster Edited October 10, 2016 by andylah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrookKnight[TK] Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Andy, Your armor looks very nice and you did a great job on it. If I may offer 2 comments that will assist you in your approval: 1. The 6 split rivets on the left side of your armor, connecting the ab to kidney plate, need to be painted white, per the CRL. 2. The drop boxes on your ammo belt need to be aligned with the outer most edge of your belt. (i.e., the left side of the drop box is aligned with the left outer most edge of the ABS portion of the belt and vice versa for the right side. See example photo below. I am sure that the "Official Reviewers" will be with you shortly. Good luck and again your armor looks great (alot better than mine when I first submitted). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magni[TK] Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Great looking RT-MOD you have there Andy. One other thing to mention is your shoulder bells need to come in more at the top. They should be right up next to shoulder straps. Besides that and drop boxes your looking good. Best of luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andylah[TK] Posted October 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) Rivets are actually white now; I replaced them previously and just hadn't repainted them yet when I wore them, disappointed in myself. When i first removed the shims and added the rivets there were white, ill take an up to date pic...Thanks for comments and advice everyone Edited October 10, 2016 by andylah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'm Batman[501st] Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Looking sharp Andy! Very sharp. Oh, apart from that hat, you realise it's backwards? 1. The 6 split rivets on the left side of your armor, connecting the ab to kidney plate, need to be painted white, per the CRL. 2. The drop boxes on your ammo belt need to be aligned with the outer most edge of your belt. (i.e., the left side of the drop box is aligned with the left outer most edge of the ABS portion of the belt and vice versa for the right side. See example photo below. I think you should be right for the ammo boxes Andy. Alignment at the ends is not required until level 3. Basic and Level 2 is just under the 'plastic tabs', whatever they are. Belt For 501st approval: Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. For level two certification (if applicable): There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.. For level three certification (if applicable): Drop boxes must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle. Although side rivets are also not required until level 3, if you do have them, they probably should be white so post up that pic and that EIB Stamp is coming your way soon EIB and Attache' (cough, cough) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andylah[TK] Posted October 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 white rivets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly11[Admin] Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Hey Andy, good to see you here my friend, I'm slowly catching up so shouldn't be too long and I will get to your review. Hows the Fan kit going mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andylah[TK] Posted October 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 not a problem at all mate... thanks for everything fan kit is the bomb and is amazing... really like it and am recommending them to anyone who wants/needs fans... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andylah[TK] Posted October 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2016 additional blaster photos as requested: D Ring Front curling charger bolt rear sight (this has confused me as the kit only seems to have the mount spot for it to face this way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'm Batman[501st] Posted October 14, 2016 Report Share Posted October 14, 2016 additional blaster photos as requested: D Ring Front curling charger bolt rear sight (this has confused me as the kit only seems to have the mount spot for it to face this way? Nice blaster Andy! 1. You could already see the D ring in the photos. 2. Charging handle was already forwards wasn't it? 3. It's not actually a mount spot. It's a reversible targeting sight that flips front to back. Unfortunately Doopy chose to hold the part the 'less than ideal' way. I (and most) just drilled straight through into the body of the receiver. All of that should't affect your application though. We allow Hasbro's, Rubies and scratch built blasters, with no handles, so I doubt some knurling the wrong way round will affect anything. It's been mentioned before that specifics like this only affect Centurion. Good luck. Hopefully the big red stamp isn't far away (There's a good shot in the blueprints section, here showing how the rear sight would rotate forwards and backwards) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/page-2#entry414732 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly11[Admin] Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Hey Andy!!, thanks for your application, good to see another Aussie going for EIB, lets take a look!!CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All submission photos have been posted. Your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Expert Infantry. Welcome to EI rank! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. If any suggestion affects any application, it will be listed separately in the above or below sections. We have a couple areas we'd like to mention. First off, you look great,very nice build but as you are most probably aware, with the overlap method of TK assembly EI is as far as it is allowable for ANH and ESB, so if you intend to aim for Centurion, and I say why not, you would need to pull the limbs apart and reassemble using the but joint method. Example from Level 3 CRL section ForearmsFor 501st approval:Forearms are fully closed. For level two certification (if applicable): For level three certification (if applicable):No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Forearms must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. We do have a few other minor adjustments you can make to get you looking the best you can so lets take a look at those. Shoulder Bells: The top of the bells should virtually be touching the plastic shoulder bridge. I do realise you are broad across the shoulders but if you shorten the elastic straps that run from the top of the bell to the elastic under the plastic bridges, they will still come in some. The bells can also be rotated forward to reduce the gap between the chest plate. Reference Image Next up we have a slight overlap of the back plate over the Kidney plate. You have two options to remedy this. 1. shorten the white elastic straps that join the chest to back plate ( the straps under the shoulder bridges), this allow the plate to sit a touch higher and rest on top of the return edge of the kidney plate. 2. wear the ab and kidney plate slightly lower, achieving the same outcome. Reference image Hand Plates: I think a little more adhesive under them so they sit flat against the rubber glove will look much tidier, and avid the risk of ripping one off the glove. Drop box positioning: These need to be aligned with the ends of the plastic ammo belt and they should be almost touching the underside of the belt. I use Velcro to keep mine in place but a small dab of glue can also stop them from moving inward. Reference Image And lastly, just for the finishing accuracy touch.....you could change the screws on the Thermal Det to the flay blade variety, and paint them black, the icing on the cake. Reference image Centurion Suggestions: Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. This is also where we try and get you in the best possible position for a successful Centurion application. Aside from the assembly of the limbs, we can only see two things that need to be changed here. It appears that the Ab button plates are part of the ab itself and not separate pieces cut out and glued to the Ab. Please see the reference image below yours to understand how this should look. Reference image Last of all is the rear sight of the E11. This little piece is misleading in its looks and quite a few have installed it facing in the opposite direction. If you cant get it off, you can always try and modify it as Justjoseph did for his. He simply filled in the serated edges with model putty, and filed a set of groves in the other end, and repainted it. Reference image Andy, you have done an outstanding job with your armour, and I know we have discussed this off line, but I really think you should consider taking the next step towards Centurion.If you can separate those limb parts and but join them, follow the CRL and photo reference guide, there is certainly every chance in the world you can make that level 3. You have already taken steps in accuracy regarding the rivets, rubber gloves and latex hand guards, so why not go for it. We are here to help you get there brother. Congratulations once again and welcome to Expert infantry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'm Batman[501st] Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Congrats buddy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.