DVH E-11 blaster kit project

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

No problem. Oh! that site is cool too! You can just get individual parts. Nice.

 

 

On another note...does anyone have a good shot of the ESB promo blaster? Like the real deal? I need to see the blocks on the scope rail. Im going to be making the ESB promo kits to go with these blasters and i need a good reference for those. I kewep finding pics of the pugman and the tango ones...are either of these 100% accurate? They are easy enough to make, i just want to make them as accurate as i can. thanks folks

Edited November 22, 2012 by Darth Voorhees

[Geaux Saints[TK]]

The main blaster you're working on is the ANH E-11, right?

[seantrooper[TK]]

I think pugmans was cast from an original one..... Not 100% on that though

[Locitus[Admin]]

I think pugmans was cast from an original one..... Not 100% on that though

That is correct. RS owns the master and the mould of it now. They have some pictures of it on FB.

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

The main blaster you're working on is the ANH E-11, right?

 

yes absolutely. The main parts are all the same. The ESB Promo is just a different rail(solid with those blocks) and the greeblies. I want to be able to offer both.

 

I ordered mold rubber for the blaster parts and will be casting them in black onyx resin

 

Thanks Seantrooper and Locitus..thats good enough for me. I have pics of that blaster, so i'll work off those. thanks guys!

 

on a side note...my lovely wife as agreed to lay out the cash for me to pick up a Webley flare gun...so i will be offering Fett blasters in the future as well

Edited November 22, 2012 by Darth Voorhees

[Locitus[Admin]]

on a side note...my lovely wife as agreed to lay out the cash for me to pick up a Webley flare gun...so i will be offering Fett blasters in the future as well

So you did get that one after all! I'm happy for you! That was one hell of a rare deal.

Now you can sign off from the hand-schaub list, to save some cash. I'll stick to my spot on that though, since anything better would be illegal here.

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

So you did get that one after all! I'm happy for you! That was one hell of a rare deal.

Now you can sign off from the hand-schaub list, to save some cash. I'll stick to my spot on that though, since anything better would be illegal here.

 

Yea...my wife got a big website job and expects payment Monday(or tuesday) so she said she can lay it out if she doesnt have to give her portion of the rent for the next few months...so i of course agreed! As long as this person pays, when they say ,should be an easy pick up. It really is a great deal! The only downside is the chrome webley has a chrome grip..but thats ok. Assuming he just sprayed over the chrome...i can strip it down chemically, and can get beautiful molds off of the chrome parts.

 

Im actually not on the list for the Hand-Schaub bronze webley, i just got a grip from him.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Ah. But you're still getting the HS grip then?

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Yessir! Still gettin the grip from HS

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

pugman is 100%

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Awesome..thanks Vern. I'll use that as a guide for the ESB greeblies.

 

On another note...some mold rubber has been ordered. Not sure how far i'll get with this batch. Hopefully i'll at the very least get molds of all the parts.

 

After that i need to cast them up and then modify them to fit on the 1.25 PVC pipe, then make molds again.

 

I noticed that Doopy's front nozzle isnt correct. Not sure why..they may have fabricated it...but mine will be accurate, right off the sterling.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

a sterling is not 1.25 inches. ( thanks lou for making it clear that your pipe is the outer diameter of 1.5 with a rating of 1.25 see his post below. )

 

that is WAY too small.

 

the electrical conduit I use from lowes, is exactly the correct dimensions you can get for a PVC pipe.

 

if you needed to make it exact then you'd have to use metal pipe.

 

don't fall into the trap of too small.

 

the 38mm pipe that I use has a thick wall, and the internal bolt is the only element that would need to be

made smaller in diameter if you're using sterling cast parts. and if you made the pvc thinner by sanding it, or on a lathe, then you

would be able to bend the pipe in your hands.

 

in the photo above we have lowes electrical conduit.

lowes rake T Tracks made from a leaf rake.

end of tube sanded down to fit end cap.

inner barrel assembly, sight rail and hengstler bracket.

 

note how the pvc is larger, but fits the curve of the grips, and magwell perfectly on the doopy mk1 kit.

the cartridge deflector and front offset cresent parts fit perfectly on the 1.50 OD pipe.

so really in casting original sterling parts, doopy did a great job of making

these really hard to fit parts sit perfectly flat on tubes like this.

 

the rear and front sights are also a great example of 'scaling' to fit existing pvc.

 

the doopy kit mk1 has major modifications done to it, so that it scaled to the different pipe size.

it was designed to be 'scaled to fit' existing pvc types available in the UK. so we have different

schedules for pipe sizes.

 

the doopy mk 2 version is different since it's not based upon a pipe.

 

you're going to run into needing to use metal pipe to get the right size if you cast directly from the sterling parts.

 

some interesting photos showing the original end cap and doopy in comparison.

 

 

 

note how the end cap lug is only a few MM larger than the base tube on a sterling, so we don't measure a real pipe at the

end cap lug. the end cap lug is created by using a thick walled base tube, then they milled down the entire rest of the

receiver cause I sure don't see a weld line at the rear cap lug. it's all one part. started as a larger wall thickness tube,

then made smaller in diameter as a part of production.

Edited November 26, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Yes i know Vern. 1.25" is the inside diameter of the PVC pipe. "Pipe" is measured by inside diameter. "Tube" is measured by outside diameter. 1.25" PVC pipe is what every blaster build tells you to use. the outside diameter is bigger, 1 and 5/8ths inches or so. A little over 1.5" Ive been using 1.25" PVC pipe for every build i do and the doopy doos kits fit perfect with no modification. Im doing exactly what doopy doos has done. Thats why i need to cast the parts twice. The first set of molds i will make, taken directly off the sterling parts, will fit a metal tube the exact size of a sterling. Hence why i need to take those castings and mod them. The Modded cast parts, which the second molds will be made from, will be made to fit the 1.25" (INSIDE diameter)PVC. So if the doopy doos kits fit the conduit your using, so will this one Im doing exactly what they did.

Edited November 26, 2012 by Darth Voorhees

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

sounds like a plan!

 

the inside diameter and making a bolt assembly with a stronger rear bolt design, and a better recoil buffer design would be fun?

 

are you planning to make a bolt and buffer assembly with a stronger cocking handle design?

 

I've always thought that resin weapons should have pewter triggers, guards and bolts and cocking handles.

 

a bolt with an open center to allow wires to travel is the thing I've always wanted in a casting.

Edited November 26, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Not at first, but keep the ideas coming Vern! I want these to eventually surpass doopy doos kits and give people more options with there builds.

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Wish me luck guys..this weekend im starting the first set of molds for these. Im going to start them tonight but probably wont be pouring the rubber until tomorrow, but we'll see how late i feel like stayin up lol.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Best of luck! Can't wait to see how this all comes together.

Offering a kit with options for ANH or ESB blasters & parts is certainly the way to go. As mentioned before by another member, a folding stock would be great to have & set this kit above the rest! Count me in for one of those if you do decide to go that route.

Now Brooklyn has the NY Islanders, Brooklyn Brewery, Brooklyn Nets and now Brooklyn Blasters!

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Thanks man! I think it was they wanted one that was cast as an open stock. I dont think the resin can handle an actual functioning stock. If it was made of aluminum, yes, but that would boost the cost up. But again...i like the ideas, and i will take them all into consideration once i have the basic kits going. these are all options that can be available later on.

 

Keep the ideas coming!

[Bulldog44[TK]]

My bad. I should have re-read that post. Anyway, if you ever did cast the stock parts separately, I would be willing to buy it & try it. Would never use it that way but be nice to know it actually unfolds like a real Sterling.

[Evilboy[501st]]

a sterling is not 1.25 inches. ( thanks lou for making it clear that your pipe is the outer diameter of 1.5 with a rating of 1.25 see his post below. )

 

that is WAY too small.

 

the electrical conduit I use from lowes, is exactly the correct dimensions you can get for a PVC pipe.

 

if you needed to make it exact then you'd have to use metal pipe.

 

don't fall into the trap of too small.

 

the 38mm pipe that I use has a thick wall, and the internal bolt is the only element that would need to be

made smaller in diameter if you're using sterling cast parts. and if you made the pvc thinner by sanding it, or on a lathe, then you

would be able to bend the pipe in your hands.

 

in the photo above we have lowes electrical conduit.

lowes rake T Tracks made from a leaf rake.

end of tube sanded down to fit end cap.

inner barrel assembly, sight rail and hengstler bracket.

 

I was just going to say that. Use the 38mm electrical conduit. that will work best...

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

Its the same thing. 38mm = 1.49606" Just about 1.5". Conduit is measured by outside diameter. Pipe is measured by inside diameter. If i meausure the outside diameter of the 1.25" PVC, it is just a hair under 1.5" its the same size as the 38mm conduit. Either will work just the same. Of course, you can use whatever you want. Im just saying the size is the same, so when i make the parts to fit the 1.25" PVC pipe, it will also fit the 38mm conduit This is exactly the same as what doopy's has done. Noone has ever complained about doopys stuff not fitting anything, so thats why im going with the same size fit.

Edited November 30, 2012 by Darth Voorhees

[Evilboy[501st]]

Gotcha! I was not implying otherwise, I was just chiming in from my iPad down in my workshop...

[stormtrooperguy[501st]]

You can also get acrylic rods with correct OD and ID... I've got a bunch at home for future E-11s. I got them via a friend but can track down the source. The only down side is that since the walls are so thin, they aren't particularly strong, especially when you start drilling out the barrel holes.

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

hmm thats always another option that could be added if anyone wanted. Id like to actually offer metal tubes with a "deluxe" kit

 

Im hoping to be able to offer a few versions to fit everyones budget and how far they want to go with it. From basic to extremely detailed.

 

So as i was starting to set up the parts for molds, i noticed that the (please excuse my lack of gun knowledge lol) internal part that goes where the ejector port is and also houses the cocking lever...just fitsd in the PVC pipe. It will need very little modification to work. Which makes me think Doopys part may be fabricated, as the front nozzle seemed to be as well. The doopys internal didnt fit in the PVC pipe without a ton of modding that just isnt worth it IMO, plus it doesnt appear to be cast off an original part as it looks very different.

 

the Sterling part lot also came with the internal barrel. So what im going to do is make it so the nozzle attaches to the internal barrel and that attaches to that ejector port part. So in essence you can have semi internals to give it a more realistic appearance. Im also makiiung it so a spring can be put into that ejector port and the cocking handle can also be put where its supposed to beIm also casting the allen bolts that go in the nozzle as seperate pieces that will work like "pegs" you just put some glue on em and put them in the nozzle and thet will attach it to the internal barrel. Also if you wanted you can use actual allen bolts and dont need to mod anything, just put them in as they will thread the resin. All this will add a little weight to the blaster but i think it will be awesome to have that option. You will still be able to assemble it without those parts if you desire.

 

These are the parts im talking about:

 

they will go together like this:

Edited November 30, 2012 by Darth Voorhees

[Geaux Saints[TK]]

Man, this is going to be sweet!