FunkyTrigger[TK] Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 Hi Guys, I thought that I would start getting together my 2mm TM Build pics together. I am starting out aiming for a Centaurian build. Here are the main armour components. Main Torso, This has been strapped and adjusted to fit me. I's using the practicle elastic and poppers strapping method, as I am an active trooper. No return edges forearms Thermal Detonator Assembled Right Top Ab Snap Thigh Ammo Pack No Rivet Sniper Plate 1 No Rivet Sniper Plate 2 Scuffed Boots, Shins & Gloves Flexible Hand Guards over Chemical Gloves TM Handpainted Helmet - Front TM Handpainted Helmet - Right TM Handpainted Helmet - Left TM Handpainted Helmet - Back Helmet Green Lens Holster E11 Blaster D - Ring Scope Muzzle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deaf Trooper[TK] Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 Good pics and awesome! I will get the armor in next few months. Thumbs up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpixels Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 (edited) Looking awesome! I'm still torn as to whether to go for the 1.5 or 2mm TM kit and each time I see a thread like this I change my mind. Hopefully I'll have my mind made up by the time I place my order in a couple of weeks. Edited October 7, 2012 by SIMpixels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R5SB[TK] Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 My 2mm ABS TM has been ordered and I asked him to make up and paint my helmet too. Looking forward to the "Big Box" moment in the next few weeks! Really like the paint and weathering on your blaster. I'll be using this for reference methinks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 Ears could be made slimmer, and the knee belt rivet is in the wrong position. Should be more towards the top corner. But otherwise you're just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 Ears could be made slimmer, [...] But...but...but it was built by TM! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 No it wasn't. This build is not my handywork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 (edited) Opps, Sorry Paul! I must have misread that. All those fumes.... Edit: Just re-read it. D'oh! I need to sleep more. Edited October 7, 2012 by Sonnenschein Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnnfr72[TK] Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 Nice work Phil! That armour is amazing!!! I bet you can get the changes Locitus mentioned done in no time at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW1 Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 Would the ammo pack rivits really effect Phil going for Centurion i am sure i have seen other submitions going through with the rivits in the same place , i agree the ears could be a tad slimmer but i know Phil is on to that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 There's a vote going on to change the requirement to reflect a more accurate position. Make sure you vote too Stephen. Yes, those approved earlier would be grandfathered, but are encouraged to change any missing retirements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyTrigger[TK] Posted October 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 If a vote is going on to reflect the position of the thigh ammo pack rivet, then in support to this, a detailed specification must have been drawn up. Please specify the drill co-ordinate of where you want the rivet to be? For example, is it 6.5mm from the top edged and 5mm from the left rear edge? Could you also specify the diameter please of the rivet head? Can you also describe the shape of the rivet required please, for example are you voting on a standard rivet with a hole in the middle or should it be smooth? Should the rivet be flat or domed? Your expert knowledge would be greatly appreciated in order to clarify this situation and would indeed benefit all TK troopers in the future. I have been reading many EIB and Centurion applications and passes and feel this specification is better than saying "up a bit, or down a bit" I'm happy to change my rivet to whatever the specification is. I happen to have a spare thigh ammo pack, ready and waiting for your instruction. If my current rivet is within 2mm of the co-ordinates then I may be able to trim the left and top edge of my existing ammo pack to bring the rivet up and into the top corner. Once the specification describes the rivet, I may find that my current 6-7mm cap rivet head is a touch small and again a larger head would give the illusion that the rivet is closer the the desired co-ordinates. Also, may I ask for any threads about this discussion please? I've read only recently about recommendations for changes to the centaurion CRL for the backs of shoulder bridges. My fellow UKG brothers are not able to help me on this matter at the moment. So, over to you. I await the specification document that you are voting for to help me proceed with my build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 There is no hard rules on how many millimetres this way, or that way. Fact is that I don't even care. That is not the important part. The important part is that the rivet sits in the top corner relative to your own build, and that it looks clean and neat. The screen used suits used cap rivets that become flat when hammered down, but we will also allow the domed split rivets. See our reference photos we keep on the site for this matter: http://www.whitearmo...eferenceGallery Like this picture which is pretty good hints that the rivet is really in the corner, very few mm from each edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyTrigger[TK] Posted October 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Centaurion applicants are encouraged to study and copy the other build threads. I have used recent TM build threads as reference and and now looking for Lucas Film archive pictures to back up my case. I can trim my corner and use a larger cap to achieve the result of "looking" like its more in the corner. However, I don't like being scape goated. If you are not using science to determine where the rivet goes then what on earth are you voting for? May I see your chat topics or voting agenda or documentation please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Centurion applicants are not encouraged to copy other build threads. That's like the whisper-game in TK-form. It's fine to be inspired, but take it with some salt. How do you know that the other guy was right? The only valid reference to copy is screen used props. Maybe it's my matter-of-fact way of speaking, but I am never intentionally talking down to or trying to scape-goat someone. And if you are talking offence from being put right, then I'm sorry my friend but you are making a chicken out of a feather. We are using "science", but we have to vote because the legion and this detachment is a democracy and everyone who wants to has to have their chance to influence even if that means holding things back (which I hope they don't). The discussion thread and voting polls are both found in the detachment-only general discussion area as they always are found. Link: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showforum=35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyTrigger[TK] Posted October 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Hi Mathaius, to avoid an ongoing argument, I will show that I am a man and back down. The proposed voting doesn't come in for another 10 days and I am all for upping the standards. The only reason that I have given my thigh pack the extra mm in height was so that it will not catch the shin front top. I'm not building my Armour just for show. I'm an active UKG trooper and have my Armour for practicality, comfort and close up inspection. I have a spare thigh ammo pack, and I have a few ideas on relocating this rivet without changing the ammo pack which I will show. Other adjustments are made to other troopers Armour to account for their size and build, such as torso shims, larger black areas for taller troopers, different amounts of front ribs attached to the top of the chest plate, I merely saw my thigh ammo pack positioning as an adjustment for my shorter legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 This looks like another case of "troopers copying other troopers mistakes". I can't stress enough how important it is to only use original armour for reference so these simple mistakes can be avoided. Your rivet and ammo strap positioning is wrong. Lifting the strap higher on your thigh doesn't make the thigh shorter so there really is no need to do it. The rivet should be in the top corner of each end of the strap and not just plonked anywhere like have done it. I know it's not a major mistake but it looks wrong compared to how the original armour was assembled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyTrigger[TK] Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Hi Paul / Mathaius The CRL thigh plate images are too small. It's a Shame I can't find Lucas archive footage pics of the side view of the right thigh. I would like to know if a 10mm diameter rivet, split rivet or cap in the top left corner is acceptable for a Centaurion request? The head diameter question needs to be addressed. This is the size of a thumb tack or drawing pin head? Or is 9mm or 8mm the accepted diameter? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 8 mm head size and cap rivet is the prefered. It is also adressed in the hopefully new crl additions that we're voting on. Sent from my GT-I9300 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dday[501st] Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) There is no hard rules on how many millimetres this way, or that way. Fact is that I don't even care. That is not the important part. The important part is that the rivet sits in the top corner relative to your own build, and that it looks clean and neat. The screen used suits used cap rivets that become flat when hammered down, but we will also allow the domed split rivets. See our reference photos we keep on the site for this matter: http://www.whitearmo...eferenceGallery Like this picture which is pretty good hints that the rivet is really in the corner, very few mm from each edge. There is no need to find LFA photos, Mathias posted one for you. These suits are positioned correctly, As stated before, 8mm head is preferred as that seems to be the size that was used on screen. You can use split rivets or cap rivets. Basically the shaft of the rivet looks be be positioned approximately 10-12mm from each edge. Edited October 9, 2012 by Dday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Basically the shaft of the rivet looks be be positioned approximately 10-12mm from each edge. I'd say that it's less than that, but given the size of the rivet head that might be a good position for the hole to be made. Once the rivet is in place the edges of the rivet will be closer than 10 mm to each belt edge. It's all relative to your armour and a millimetre here or there is no big deal as long as the rivet is clearly in the corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 I just measured my rivets and they have a 7mm head and positioned 8mm in from the top and side on the ammo strap. The 8mm measurement in the center of the rivet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyTrigger[TK] Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Thanks Paul. I'm the kinda guy that needs figures like this. I hate the guess work. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyTrigger[TK] Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Please have a look at this adjusted thigh ammo pack. It's not to Paul's guidelines, as a complete change of ammo pack would be required to achieve those measurements. It is however within Mathauis's measurements. The cap head is 8.5mm and it is 8mm from the top and a less from the end edge. At least my thread will be a test case, now with accurate measurements that you could use to back up your proposed amendments. I think cap sizes, and approximate measurements from the edges with acceptable tolerances are required in order to backup your proposed thigh pack rivet location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Yes, that looks better. I am however not agreeing that we must put measurements and fixed numbers on everything. Not all armour is alike and what works on some doesn't on other. How hard is it really to just put it in the top corner? If we were to put measurements that should strictly be followed and someone does, but because they have armour of brand X that somehow is different and the end result looks bad compared to if they had followed their guts and put the rivet where it looked good then we who wrote the instructions would be to blame. Measurements are good, but common sense should prevail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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