Locitus[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 Looks like you kept the ledges that the cover strip sits on a little wide though. If you can, it's better to keep those the same width as the cover strip and trim for width of your arm on the back only. So if you have big arms you trim less on the back. You have the right technique though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Looks like you kept the ledges that the cover strip sits on a little wide though. If you can, it's better to keep those the same width as the cover strip and trim for width of your arm on the back only. So if you have big arms you trim less on the back. You have the right technique though. I see what you're saying now. I think it may be a little too late for the arms. I will do that for the legs and shins. Dang, I could kick myself for making that mistake. Will that count against me? On a side note, is there a miraculously easy way to put the S-trim on the base of the helmet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Aren't you using E-6000? It's easy to take it apart and redo. And no, I won't hold it against you. It's just a tip for a better look. No, not really. You just need to hang in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Aren't you using E-6000? It's easy to take it apart and redo. And no, I won't hold it against you. It's just a tip for a better look. No, not really. You just need to hang in there. Yes, I'm using E-6000. My only concern is the adjustment may make the forearm too snug. I might just have to try it anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 I'm sure you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 I was about to say the same thing on the flat joining edges. Only leave them bigger if you need more room and then use a wider joining strip to cover as much as the flat edge as possible. E6000 is very forgiving. You will be able to pry off the joining strips and rub off the E6000 from the ABS and trim the forearm edge if you have room to spare. Otherwise, leave them as they are. They will not affect any awards. The S trim slips on easily. Just use the thinner slot in the S and work it around the base of your helmet. When you come to trim it, leave about 10mm over so it looks too long and force it it place. This will make it say on with no adhesive. If 10mm is too much then just snip a little bit off until you get it to stay on without kinking anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dday[501st] Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 In regards to the S-Trim. Thinner of the two edge are used to attach to the helmet, with the other curve on the inside of the helmet, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Thanks, Paul. I really wasn't paying attention when trimming. I know now and won't make that mistake with the thighs and shins. I'm going to leave it for now and then look to see if it can be redone after Halloween. If I can't redo it, I may just order some more forearms along with the ears that I'm thinking about ordering. With regards to the S-trim, I think I was using the longer/deeper side to attach to he helmet. Maybe THAT was my problem. Newbies....whatcha gonna do with us? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Here is some of my helmet progress. Future Centurion hand painted proof. The ear screws are loosened to allow the brow trim to be easier to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostin480 Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 thanks for the pictures as you are building, I was stuck at few places and now I am able to proceed why did you decide on the loop (brackets) vs snap on the back pieces? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 (edited) thanks for the pictures as you are building, I was stuck at few places and now I am able to proceed why did you decide on the loop (brackets) vs snap on the back pieces? You're welcome on the pictures. If you're like me, you like/need plenty of pictures when it comes to things like this. I decided to go with the brackets (original strapping) because that is how the originals were done. I have the TM (Troopermaster) 1.5 mm armor which is more flexible, lighter, and like the originals as well. The original strapping with the screws and brackets can be used on the 1.5 mm armor BECAUSE of its flexibility. The brackets would not work on the 2.0 mm acrylic capped armor because it is not as flexible and likely would break with any stressing of the armor from movement. Purely a matter of preference. Snaps can be used on 1.5 mm armor as well. FYI: Don't make the mistake I made on the arms with the joining strap (see above pictures). On the inside of the forearms, make sure the ridge between the two parts is the same width as your joining strip (more visually appealing) then make your size adjustments on the other side. I'm going to redo mine at some point. Edited October 26, 2012 by Geaux Saints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 When you hand paint your helmet, has anyone sprayed the painted areas with a clear coat? If not, how do you keep the paint from chipping or coming off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 A little helmet update action.... I used a pencil to mark the edge of my tube stripes. The marks mark the edge of the stripes, not the template (from Trooperbay). Here's the finished paint project... I painted my gray areas first, then outlined in black. Afterwards, I used a toothpick to "tighten up" the lines. I've seen the "paint black first" method, and after doing it my way (without a steady hand) it probably would have been easier doing it the other way. Regardless, I'm happy with the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Looking good! Sent from my GT-I9300 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicky Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 (edited) Very nice work, I love the work on the helmet it looks very neat and "ideal". The parts for your forearms aren't fit as shown in post #47 so fixing the ledge issue by trimming is a clear solution to me and you will be very happy to see that you don't need extra loose space in the forearms and that it looks better when slightly snug. Edited October 29, 2012 by Nicky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Looking very nice, keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Very nice work, I love the work on the helmet it looks very neat and "ideal". The parts for your forearms aren't fit as shown in post #47 so fixing the ledge issue by trimming is a clear solution to me and you will be very happy to see that you don't need extra loose space in the forearms and that it looks better when slightly snug. I'm definitely going to redo the forearms at some point. I was totally not paying attention when I did it. I just hope the retrim doesn't make them too tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clamps[TK] Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 I'm definitely going to redo the forearms at some point. I was totally not paying attention when I did it. I just hope the retrim doesn't make them too tight. My forearms were my first limb portions worked on and I totally made them too tight, so I later pulled them apart and inner shimmed a bit, when cover strip added, you could not tell there was a gap underneath. I am sure you could do the same if you run into things being too tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostin480 Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 (edited) FYI: Don't make the mistake I made on the arms with the joining strap (see above pictures). On the inside of the forearms, make sure the ridge between the two parts is the same width as your joining strip (more visually appealing) then make your size adjustments on the other side. I'm going to redo mine at some point. I got the AM and did the overlap on the biceps and forearms - which means that I need to redo them / reorder (or shimmm) since they are already cut... The butt joint vs overlap wasn't really explained to me right away and by the time I did more research my two parts were already cured so we'll see. BTW is the kidney plate supposed to flare up or down ? I would think down Edited October 29, 2012 by lostin480 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 (edited) The side with the notches is supposed to be down. Not sure if that answers your question. Edited October 29, 2012 by Geaux Saints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Does the sniper plate look alright or do I need to do some more trimming (not glued, yet, just clamped)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyTrigger[TK] Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Your alignment is far better than the originals. I like the way you have followed the natural top ridge shin lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 I would trim more off the bottom return edge. You don't really want any edge on the bottom if you can help it. You can see it is making the plate tilt in towards your knee when it want to be flush against the shin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mogwai[TK] Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 That Helmet build looks great. The Ears are looking very good. Great Work! The Sniper Plates also looks good. Just as said, trim a little bit more of the return edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geaux Saints[TK] Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 I thought the return edge on the bottom needed some trimming, but I wanted some verification. Thanks. I'll glue that when I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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