craig225[TK] Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 (edited) Oso, Looking good so far. The legs are arguably the hardest part of the AP so take your time. It's difficult to tell the shins (calf) apart from your photos. FYI here's a shot of the right inner / left outer pieces - right inner shin in front with the deeper scoop. As for the size of the opening at the bottom, you'll never get your foot through if you glue the back of the shins too. Use velcro instead as follows. The inner joining strip is so the velcro sticks out past the vertical edge of the shin. When "stuck" together you effectively have a velco butt join. Front / rear view of trimmed and glued thighs / shins without cover strips (with velco on shin) Rear view of completed shin with cover strip hiding velcro butt join. Finally, also best to align the top front of the shins when trimming and gluing. There's no return edge on the bottom of the shins, so it wont be hard to trim if one side is longer than the other. Hope this helps. C Edited November 22, 2012 by craig225 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted November 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 (edited) Thanks Craig, this is great help!!! I'll make sure to align top to bottom and follow the diagram for the Velcro closure! I think I have the shins paired ok ! Ah one more thing, It seems that before butt joining one has to cut a bit of the edges of every piece, some people say that one should leave 7 mm on each side to cover with a 15 mm strip for the arms , and leave 10mm in each side to cover with a 20mm strip for the thighs and shins and leaving 25mm for the back of the thighs, are those the right numbers, because I've seen people that leave 10mm and even 12 mm in each side of the pieces for the arms and even more for the legs? Edited November 23, 2012 by OsotheBear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig225[TK] Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 (edited) Glad to be of help Oso. Yes, covers strips should be 15mm wide for the biceps and forearms (7-8 mm each side) and 20mm (10mm each side) for the shins and thighs. Depending on how much thigh room you need, you can easily trim or shim the rear join depending on if you need less or more. Also, if you intend to glue the joins on both halves of your forearms, you may need more than 7-8mm on each side to get your wrist through the end - no return edge on the wrist end of the forearms by the way. If you need the forearm wider at the wrist end, still trim the 'outside' join (the join facing out, away from your body) to be 15mm in total (7-8mm each side) but trim less off the 'inside' join and have a wider than 15mm cover strip. I found I had to glue both halves of the forearms (rather than use velcro like on the shins) just to keep the halves aligned due one half of each forearm being significantly more curved than the other. C Edited November 24, 2012 by craig225 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted December 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 (edited) I got the chance to work a bit more this evening, thermal detonator...go!!!! I think the originals were around 7 1/2 inches long, so the caps will add a bit more length Got a nice pair of clips from Paul troopermaster! they are really good, highly recommended! Edited December 8, 2012 by OsotheBear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted December 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 (edited) Coming alongI was advised to drill the holes after bending the strips to allow the clip to bend evenly, also I have rivets and these little screws, the rivets seems more sturdy option but I read somewhere that they were actual screws and bolts in the movie Edited December 8, 2012 by OsotheBear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 From memory I think I read that they used flat head screws, they must be the tapered ones that are countersunk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted December 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 Ahhh , like the ones that go on the helmet ears? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 Ahhh , like the ones that go on the helmet ears? I think so, I am trying to find the thread again LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 Here it is http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21206-thermal-detonator-screws/page__hl__%2Bdetonator+%2Bscrews__fromsearch__1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted December 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 That was fast, thanks man!!, It seems that they use all kind of screws,hmmm , I wonder if there's a specific requirement for EiB? I might just go with rivets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 That was fast, thanks man!!, It seems that they use all kind of screws,hmmm , I wonder if there's a specific requirement for EiB? I might just go with rivets LOL well I did do a lot of re reading when I found out my armor was on the way, but still find I need to ask questions. There are no requirements for EIB or Centurion for fittings, a lot use rivets but those who wish for screen accuracy use the flat taper screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted December 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 Hey Glen, thanks for the help!!!greatly appreciated!! I thought since I have the screws with a rounded head maybe I can sand those and make them flat !! ha! so I gave it a try and took one, wrapped it on a piece of cloth to avoid ruin the thread and press them on the vice, then I just sanded it down with the dremel , then some sand paper for the finesse and voila! flat head, the only thing is that I have to be careful not to get in contact with water since the antioxidant coat is gone and the zinc will rust eventually, but hey what the hell . I still between the screws and the rivets , what do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted December 10, 2012 Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 Glad to be of help, troopers helping troopers is the moto. That was a lot of work, well done but, yes theres a but, the flat screws also have a taper so they recess into the plate which makes them flush. It's an entirely personal preference what to use and even what you can find to use, me I'm going for the tapered flat head, but at the start of my build journey I would have settled for rivets. Go with what you are happy with, oh and remember its not permenant you can always change it later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Got around to work in the armor a little more, got the covering strips cut , 15mm, 20mm and 25'mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Also got the amazing belt from TKittell Also working on the arms, they look great but they there's a bit of misalignment on the edge, so some heat to the rescue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Every little bit adds up at the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Now working on the forearms and biceps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted February 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 Finally got around to glue the arms with a strip inside, now the outside one, does this look ok for you guys and gals? it's a 15mm strip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 Looking good, just depends how snug your arms are fitting, I tried to put my cover strip right to the ends of the ridges but then I have small arms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrooperTim Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Yep, looking good Oso. I have skinny arms too and went to the mold ridge. Sanding down round screws? Huh. Well, whatever works for ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Oh btw after much more reading and learning (you never stop) the screen accurate screws for the TD bracket are black slotted domed screws, looks like I'm changing mine lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 (edited) Heya Glen , yeah I saw the thread, I'm still trying to found some of those screws , now in black Edited February 11, 2013 by OsotheBear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Regarding the arms, there is a bit of room , but when I flex the arms it gets snug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Regarding the arms, there is a bit of room , but when I flex the arms it gets snug About the same as mine, but when you are full kitted up I can't see you doing any weight lifting LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted February 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Heya guys and gals , I'm trying to work on the tights a bit, how do this look? , do they align from the top or the bottom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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