zsavk[TK] Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 (edited) Well my T/MC kit arrived today! (Thank you Tray) So far Ive started sorting through the box of goodies and everything looks great! I was especially pleased to see it very well protected and packaged. Another great thing I see is that the maker or Tray has written on various pieces some really helpfull hints on trimming and assembly. That is a great surprise and much appreciated. I will keep a running thread here for the archives and for help and feedback. Cant wait to get started. Hopefully will find some time this weekend to dive in. Forgot to mention this originally but the kit also contained a dvd with pictures on assembly tips as well as a complete list of misc parts and tools you would need that are not in the kit. elastic, snaps,paint.rivets,sandpaper, glue, clamps etc etc etc etc etc etc. Which is a really really great resource especially if this is your first build. Edited January 21, 2011 by zsavk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jorran Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 I'm definitely going to be keeping an eye on this thread, as I've also ordered a T/MC kit. Good luck, Robert! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tray[TK] Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 I've assembled a few of these but it will be nice to see someone else's build of it. Thanks for doing this for everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Congrats on your purchase. I just assembled a TMC helmet. Tip: don't use the pencil guide lines on the ears. If you do, they will be thinner and have a ROTJ look to them. Unless thats what you are going for! Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsavk[TK] Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 I will keep that in mind Terry. Im going EIB ANH with this. Stunt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsavk[TK] Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Ok so Ive attacked the trimming full force! Heres the set laid out pre trimmage: Heres the pile of plastic I buried my feet in!! I didnt stop for anything and finished all the trimming last night. Ive got a couple blisters to show for it from using my snips non stop lol One thing I will say is that I started out by doing the score and bend method and quickly gave up. It would have taken me a week to do it that way and probably several pints of blood and armor gouges as well. So I went with my aviation snips (Reds and greens) Which is how I trimmed my Animated Series Clone and it worked great. When I cut I leave the pencil line. Just to allow some room for sanding. I also cut up from the outside to the line every inch or so on the radius cuts. This makes it easier for the snips to carry on. Today I tackled the Helmet. Its almost done and Ill post some pics tommorow on that. I do have a couple questions though. 1. Im planning on butt joining all the pieces and using cover strips. Butting both halves of any piece together makes the flat about 2 inches! Im assuming the armor was designed to be lap fitted. So do I have to cut half the lap from both sides of each piece in order to get down to a cover strip of about 1 inch? 2. my Hovi mic tip aerators came with a couple screws and nuts. But they are not affixed to the Hovis. How do you attach the screws to the hovis? Im gonna guess that I have to drill a hole inside the hovi and then paint or cover the head after on the inside under the mesh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich330[TK] Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 1. Im planning on butt joining all the pieces and using cover strips. Butting both halves of any piece together makes the flat about 2 inches! Im assuming the armor was designed to be lap fitted. So do I have to cut half the lap from both sides of each piece in order to get down to a cover strip of about 1 inch? That's right, the suit is derived rom a ROTJ suit and has a built-n overlapping seam. To match the size of the screen-used suits, trim to fit 20mm strips on the legs and 15mm on the arms. Make sure you can fit your limbs in before trimming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKRobert Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 (edited) The armour is one thing but that's also a serious workshop Robert. Edited January 16, 2011 by TKRobert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogueTrooper[TK] Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 my Hovi mic tip aerators came with a couple screws and nuts. But they are not affixed to the Hovis. How do you attach the screws to the hovis? Im gonna guess that I have to drill a hole inside the hovi and then paint or cover the head after on the inside under the mesh? Looks like you are having great fun with your ANH stunt build! About the Hovis, there are two ways of doing this. One of which is the way you said to do it, but using that method the screw/bolt can loosen over time and you will have to take the mesh screen out in order to fix/tighten the screw/bolt. If I may suggest, below is an alternative method. Using the method below, I think is easier when needing to tighten the Hovi if and when it becomes loose. In this method you will need to purchase threaded rod, nuts and washers that will work with the threaded rod. You can find threaded rod at any hardware or home improvement store, in the nut and bolt section. Once you have the threaded rod you will need to drill a hole from the back side of the Hovi, not all the way through and make the hole smaller so the thread has something to grab on to. Now, glue the threaded rod into the hole that you just drilled, leaving enough length of the threaded rod so it will go through the helmet and have plenty of room to secure a nut and washer to it. For gluing the threaded rod into the hole in the Hovi, I suggest the JB Weld - two part liquid steel/epoxy resin. Below is a pic of one of Keith's Hovi tips to show you how the threaded rod should protrude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsavk[TK] Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Thanks Tom. I actually have some JB weld around here somewhere. Ill get on that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vt357[501st] Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 So I've got to ask about the workshop. What do you use the range hood for? I see the duct work is set up for fan exhaust. The lights are a nice bonus there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsavk[TK] Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Ya just had a dinged up one laying around so I figured why not? lol It is handy for the light thats for sure. But Its nice to keep fumes pulled out as well. Its winter time here so I cant have the doors open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tray[TK] Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Looking sweet. The hovi screws go from inside. If you push in the helmet into a slight dimple the screw will fit. The threaded rod idea is nice to. I might start using that idea myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsavk[TK] Posted January 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 (edited) For the hovi mesh do I friction fit them in the ends or secure them with some glue or something? Update: Ok I jammed them in and then used some CA glue to secure them. I was able to finish up alot of the Helmet. Just have the ear bumps and some extra coats and touch ups left to do I think. Oh and some padding on the inside. Let me know what you guys think. Im hoping to go ANH EIB Stunt with this. I followed TK4510s helmet assembly tutorial pretty much 100% so I didnt think archiving my progress would help anyone Thank you Mike. Edited January 17, 2011 by zsavk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogueTrooper[TK] Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Great work Robert!! top notch!! As for the mesh for the Hovis, I would use a little drop of glue on two places, like 12, and 6 o'clock points of the mesh just to hold it in place. Any clear glue like, Zap-A-Gap or any other (CA)style glue. But thats just me. Also, the brow is a little low for an ANH Stunt lid. If it was mine, I would raise it just a wee bit.. Here are some pix of original AHN lids for reference if you want to raise the brow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsavk[TK] Posted January 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 Thanks Tom! Ya I raised it once already lol. Had the RotJ furrowed brow going on I wil definetely trim another 1/4 inch off the cap and raise it up. Appreciate the comments and help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsavk[TK] Posted January 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Quick question. Is Mesh behind the frown EIB Acceptable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkrestonva[TK] Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Yes. Not screen-accurate, but it beats wearing a balaclava IMO. If you use a non-permanent method to attach it, tape for instance, you can always remove it later if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsavk[TK] Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Cool Idea! I opted to velcro it in there along with some padding tonight: I also glued on the ab button plates and painted the buttons. The Kit came with stencils for this and they worked great. So here is the completed T/MC helmet beside my RotJ TE just for comparison. I cant believe how different they are when you see them side by side. The ANH style is so wide compared to the RotJ. Hoping to get a good amount of time on sanding everything this week. Then Ill start trimming the armor laps down for butt joining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandtrooper[501st] Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Looks great so far, Robert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsavk[TK] Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Thanks Ok I started assembling the shins today by trimming the lap on the front down for butt joining. Going with 20mm wide cover strips in back and front. First thing I did was reduce the size of the laps down to 11mm/11mm then glued and clamped the back piece in first. I left it long on the inside so I could trim it exact after its together. Then I secured the other half to the backer butt to butt leaving a 24mm flat +/- a mm or 2. I let that set for a few minutes before putting the outer cover strip on which was measured to fit perfect and had the corners nipped on a 45 degree already. Heres a pic with them on and sniper plate riveted on. They fit perfectly and will need minimal padding just to keep them from rotating I think. I lapped the back and used velcro to secure. Its not a perfect closure but Im not sure how to make it close better. Anyone have a better method for closing the backs? Should I try heating up the shins to better round the back to fit more snug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Yup. Heat it up and bend it to shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Looks great Robert! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsavk[TK] Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Well I managed to get the backs formed up nice and tight. But in doing so I did not notice the front of the shins melting My left shin now has a couple bad craters in it. Ive tried reheating it to push them back down but it just seems to make things worse. Anyone want a job? lol Ive either got to ship this shin to someone who knows how to fix it (Id gladly pay) Or Im going to have to order up a replacement. Any takers? I can post up a picture of the damage if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Yikes, post up a pic - maybe it can be fixed? I can manipulate plastic pretty good. When heating the shin armor, you need to do it with low heat, and keep the gun moving over and area thats least 50% larger than what you want to bend / manipulate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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