pandatrooper[TK] Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 I dont think it will affect Eib application, but its not hard to trim it down some more. Draw some lines about 1/8" - 3/16" below the rounded lip and trim it down. Then lay a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and place the ab button box on top and sand down the edges to make them even. Then reinstall it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gedstar Posted November 10, 2010 Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 Hi everyone. I'm currently building my AM armour. Pretty daunting at first but I'm getting there slowly. My only question is how much should I trim off the lower (under arm)sections of the chest and OII back piece. When trying mine on, they both touch each other. Any suggestions, pics or advice. Cheers Ged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted November 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 Hi there Ged. I would suggest looking at the movie screenshots / reference photos, as this may depend on your sizing. The AM kit has a lot of extra plastic in these areas. As a rough guideline, I would say trim the side of the chest, just before it reaches the vertical seam on your ab to kidney section (which is the halfway mark on your torso). For the back, you can trim a lot more. In the pictures, the back wraps around just a bit, then blends in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted November 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 Though I'd post an update here for the modification I did for the thigh tops (ANH style notches). Modification thread: http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=13513 Here's the original tutorial on how to make the ANH thigh tops http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11836 Video tutorials on how to do a return edge http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12972 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rikarus Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Does anyone have a write up for the AM Biceps, for the easiest part they are killing me, so far I have managed to slice open the inside of my arm on the pointy edges trying to fit and spend more time dropping them when the tape comes off or tears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted November 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 I think theres a step by step for biceps right at the beginning of this thread. Also, check the Imperial Reception Center for armor tutorials. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/79-tutorials-tips-and-howtos/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rikarus Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 On 30.11.2010 at 7:17 AM, pandatrooper said: I think theres a step by step for biceps right at the beginning of this thread. Also, check the Imperial Reception Center for armor tutorials. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/79-tutorials-tips-and-howtos/ Yah read yours, but looking for some more photos, thanks for other link, I am missing something I think becasue it just seems to akward trying to fit those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterAP2 Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Terry how did you mount your belt? it is physically attached to the abs and held together by the canvas belt or just being held by the belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 The belt armor was riveted through the canvas belt where the square snap covers go, with female snaps (Tandy line 24) on the back side of the canvas. They snap into corresponding male snaps on the ab armor. The little square plastic buttons can be glued on top of the rivets to hide them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterAP2 Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Thanks Terry! Im such a chicken to break my armor. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterAP2 Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Terry, For the utility belt did you trim the corners to 45 degrees? My belt is just straight.. Also are you using 3" or 4" canvas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Yes, the corners are trimmed to be more accurate. I followed Stukatroopers measurements which are: - the distance from the last box to the end of the belt is 45mm - then measure 12mm in both directions in from corner - draw a diagonal line and trim the corners The canvas belt is 3" tall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill.I.Am Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 (edited) A word of caution! I haven't had a chance to troop yet in my new armor but have noticed micro cracks on the neckline of mine. I last wore my armor last Halloween and I am very careful with it so it is not from being abused. I saw the first one recently and upon very close inspection using a magnifying glass I found 3 very tiny cracks in the same area. You can see another just to the left of the big crack. These may have been created when the excess was trimmed or the plastic is too stressed in that area and was not hot enough to take the shape of the mold. So take a very close look at this area and be careful, this is a quality issue and if you have the same little cracks it is only a matter of time before they open up. I do not imagine a chest piece lasting very long if the cracks continue to grow. I have sent an email to the manufacturer of the AM armor regarding this and am waiting for a reply. Edited January 3, 2011 by Bill.I.Am Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersteve Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Great thread! I just bought a set of AM from a member here. Although I am on the heavy side I am short so I was leary about getting it but after reading this thread I have no worries. So when can I come over and have you work on my armor ;P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defiance7x13[TK] Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 A word of caution! I haven't had a chance to troop yet in my new armor but have noticed micro cracks on the neckline of mine. I last wore my armor last Halloween and I am very careful with it so it is not from being abused. I saw the first one recently and upon very close inspection using a magnifying glass I found 3 very tiny cracks in the same area. You can see another just to the left of the big crack. These may have been created when the excess was trimmed or the plastic is too stressed in that area and was not hot enough to take the shape of the mold. So take a very close look at this area and be careful, this is a quality issue and if you have the same little cracks it is only a matter of time before they open up. I do not imagine a chest piece lasting very long if the cracks continue to grow. I have sent an email to the manufacturer of the AM armor regarding this and am waiting for a reply. How are you storing/keeping your armor between uses? Did that big crack open up when you wore your suit on Halloween? I have 2 sets of AM and I have yet to see or have this problem with either set. And am not the kindest with them while trooping (not to mention, "attention" from the general public). I did get some stress cracks on the return edge on the top of shins of my first suit, but that was after riding a bike, 3 days of heavy use, lots of stairs and most of all before I trimmed the return edge almost completely away, to fit the armor better to my legs. I do however take great care in how the suit is stored, and take great care to make sure no pressure is being applied, too any of the pieces while they rest inside their case. I stated off with a 30 gallon box like this, I got at my local target for about $7. I does the job as far as keeping my armor safe and all my parts together. The only thing I am unable to place in here is my lid. During my first troop I discovered the joys of carry the box full of armor and helmet bag at the same time , to and from my car and the dressing room. I have since upgraded to this 50 gallon Stanley model. I got it at Home Depot for about $60. A little pricey I know, but I can now fit both my suits complete (no lids) into one box if I so chose. Or one complete suit with the Lid included. I guess it is possible you got a bad pull or something happened during shipping. But in the mean time, if you have any scrap abs, just take a few small strips and glue them to the inside of the edge that's cracking. It wont be visible to the public, and you wont have to worry about the crack opening further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill.I.Am Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I use a large Rubbermaind container for transporting my armor so it cannot be crushed. There are 4 cracks in total along the same edge about with about a 1/4 inch spacing between them. If I were to stress it to the point of braking there would be only 1 crack. I have not done anything to the suit to cause this kind of damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 If the armour arrived to you damaged, you should contact AM directly. Perhaps it was damaged in shipping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill.I.Am Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 I did that the other day and he is sending me out a replacement. Very good fellow to deal with and excellent customer service. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Good to hear. AM makes pretty sturdy stuff. My TK is practically bulletproof! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gedstar Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Hi folks, It's been a while but i'm back on my TK AM build! (work commitments) Here's a new problem... When I put on the chest piece, I am unable to move my head left or right. My bucket catches on the raised part of the chest piece (Pecs)! I think the curvature at the top of the chest is wrong. Anyone else know about or have this problem? If that makes any sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted February 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 What helmet do you have? I find the screen accurate helmets have tons of clearance on the AM chest because the AM chest is actually very flat. The screen accurate chests are much rounder and smaller. It would also be good to know what your chest size / weight / height is. Perhaps you have the chest hinging forward too much? Post and pic, and I'll see if I can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MightyTank[501st] Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Pics would help. how are your chest /back connected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill.I.Am Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Hi folks, It's been a while but i'm back on my TK AM build! (work commitments) Here's a new problem... When I put on the chest piece, I am unable to move my head left or right. My bucket catches on the raised part of the chest piece (Pecs)! I think the curvature at the top of the chest is wrong. Anyone else know about or have this problem? If that makes any sense? I have the MR helmet and the helmet catches the chest piece when I turn my head about 25 degrees either way. I just learned to rotate my shoulders to compensate when looking left or right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jorran Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 The arms took a few hours, but I made all the snap plates and glued them in, and sewed new velcro / elastics for assembly. Terry, I'm thinking of using this same method as I build my bells/bicep connection. What I think I see is a strip of elastic that has a snap tab on one end (glued to the bell) and a strip of black velcro sewn to the other end, which is then pressed onto a patch of white velcro that's been placed on the bicep. Is that right? I was looking at Stuka's Flickr build, and he used snap plates on the bell and bicep with elastic between them. I can see how yours allows for more flexibility/adjustment, but do you find that it's a strong connection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 I find it's fine for a connection, I've never had a failure. I like the ability to tweak the length a little each time before committing. You can do the snap to snap elastic too, you just need to be more critical with the length, or don't glue one of the snaps down until the sizing is perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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