TK6294

After the crack was repaired and the inside reinforced i did the painting. I sanded the repaired area and the area surrounding it. I then sprayed some paint primer (rustoleum). Then sprayed with white paint (Rustoleum). The hard part was the paint line where I taped off to protect the rest of the helmet. I sanded them with 400 grit paper until the transition was smooth. Then I buffed the heck out of it. the buffing took out the sanding abrasions and helped blend the paint colors together.

This picture is from before the repair. The crack is the line below the aerator. It is tough to make out because of the white back ground but it was 1/4" wide and 1.5" long. This was a TE2 helmet. I am not fond of that design. It was also dented or deformed by a previous repair attempt. I repaired it for a friend. ----- After the repair. I did not repaint the whole helmet. Also, the white paint did not match. I was able to blend it in with some sanding and buffing. -----

sorry, I did not see this question before. The 2 part epoxy does generate heat when curing but it is not as hot. The immediate cure take 20 minutes instead of 2 minutes for CA glue. The full cure take 24 hours. The faster the cure the more heat there will be. I think the epoxy will hold up better the Elmers glue. Beware, the epoxy does not come off once dried! So be careful in applying. It will also have a yellowish tinge of color when dried so only use in hidden areas. I think it would be good around the aerators but whatever you do will be permanent. Here is another tip that worked for me in the cracked helmet repair. I used bondo to seal the cracks and smooth out the deformaties. Then I had trouble keeping the bondo intact when sanding. It wanted to chip off at the edges and in thin spots. So I took some CA glue and rubber gloves and applied to the bondo area after I sanded the surface smooth. I smoothed out the CA glue with my rubber gloved fingers. When it cured I sanded lightly and painted. The CA glue on the resin made a shiny plastic surface that accepted paint very well. I was suprised at how well it turned out. I can post some before after pictures later on if anyone is interested.

I just learned it too. You take some CA glue (find at local hobby shop) and cut an old tee-shirt to fit the patch area. I suggest you wear rubber gloves and do this in a ventilated area. And please avoid touching any sensitive areas with glue on your hands (ever watch american pie 2?). Place the Tee-shirt patch in the desired spot. Then cover and spread around the CA glue to completely cover the patch and soak all the way through. You can also buy some CA glue accelerant spray to speed up the cure process. The result is a super strong patch. I used this method to patch some areas of my armor that were showing some stress fractures. I also read in a popular mechanics magazine that you can mix CA glue with baking soda to make a cement paste. The article stated that you can use this paste to literally build up missing section of plastic. I have not tried the baking soda paste yet...

I recently repaired a cracked helmet that cracked because the material was so thin at the aerators. In order to repair the crack and prevent more, i used loctite 2 part epoxy. I applied it in three layers and just spread it around in the inside until it was tacky enough to stay put. It turned out really nice.... I have used the tee shirt and CA glue method on my armor and it did get plenty hot. I can see how that might be a disaster on a helmet.

Thanks Bro!

I would like to try some e600. Where can you typically buy it?

I bought my first set of armor used. There were snaps but they never stayed connected. Some were canvas and some were elastic. I am starting a TX soon and would like to do snaps with elastic. Is there a type of snap I should get that hold better? Would Two snaps be better than one?

I understand the dilemma. Ideally we would want our sound to come from the aerators. However, it is difficult to get enough volume out the aerators. I have a couple of aerator speakers and the sound was barely audible without distortion. I have chose not focus on location and instead install my speakers/amp in my armor. I have taken apart a newton and a radio shack amp and modded into my armor. Neither one fits very well though. So i am working with a potential supplier of voice amps that are small but powerful. The supplier claims they are 10 watts and 12 watts (the radio shack is 6 watts). The size is 3.75" x 2.75" x 1". That makes it thin enough attach right into the armor without any modification. The units even come with built in rechargeable batteries. It sounds too good to be true so i bought both models and they are being shipped. I will test them. If i think they are good enough I will buy a big lot of them and offer them up for sale here on the forums. They should not be too expensive either. i should have them in about a week to test. The downside too having a voice amp in your armor is the cord between the helmet to your armor. That issue led me to a search for a wireless headset microphone. I found theses memorex units that are small and work really well. I have been selling them at this thread. If the cord bugs you enough (it did me) you can go this route.---------

FYI, I bought one of the SEA smalltalk amps a few weeks ago. You have to wire in a female 3.5mm adapter so that you can plug in your microphone. I have tried many different voice amps (6w radio shack, newton, mini-radio shack) and this SEA smalltalk amp was the worst of the bunch. The sound was distorted at high volume and the middle volume was too little to be acceptable. Maybe i did not wire it good enough. i did try another female port from another manufacturer and I had the same results. I was going to use this amp for a jawa chatterbox for my kids costumes. They will not work for me. I do have the email of the guy that sells these. If you contact him directly he will lower the price a few dollars and give you one that has already been opened. If you want the email of the guy PM or email me. I don't think it is right to post someone elses email address without their permission. Plus, i would not encourage anyone to buy this amp. But hey, that is just my opinion. I am working with a supplier who has a 10W amp that is about 4"x3"x 1". I am going test it out. If i like it then i will buy large lot of them and offer them up for sale on the forums. I should have answer back on this in 2 weeks. The cool thing is that it is small enough to install in a chest or back plate and will not need modification to fit. I will make a video of the sound comparison to show everyone. Always my Best, Jim, TK6294 familyjim72@yahoo.com

Chris, Here are some pictures. I have built a few of these systems for other troopers. I can put one together for you. Contact me via email if you are interested. We can work something out. Best Regards, Jim, TK 6294, familyjim72@yahoo.com

I suggest a Kev's ANH 2.0 or 2.5. You can view them at www.imperialsurplus.com. You can also contact kev there. He make a very solid helmet that looks awesome. I just repaired a TE2 for a trooper that had a crack because the walls were so thin. On the other hand, i took a hit by a door wearing my kev's ANH 2.5 and it hit me so hard that it cut my head inside my helmet. The helmet had a nasty scratch but no dents or cracks. The TE2 I just repaired would have split in two from that hit.

It just shows you that when you look at something long enough you become blinded by the obvious. Like not being able to see the forest when you are in the trees. I appriciate the input and that is why I posted. I was more worried about putting the strips on straight and in the right spot and I overlooked the obvious. Funny thing is that nobody in my squad noticed when I showed wore it at the last event. I will definitly put them closer to the cheek transition. Thank you for the help.

Oops! Frak! It was late when i put them on. No worries, I have spares...

After so much work and heartache I had to show of my new Kev's ANH 2.5. This helmet has a lengthy history. First, a friend finished the helmet for me. However, the finish was damaged during shipping. So I decided to refinish it. I primed, sanded, painted, sanded, painted, then applied a poly acrylic for protection (big mistake). I then painted all of the trim and applied the decals. I also glued in a hard hat liner. I added a 4 fan cooling system utilizing squirrel fans. I set up two fans to suck in at the frown and blow up just below the lenses. Then I put one fan at the chin on the inside bottom of the goatee. that fan sucks air down and blows it straight out at my neckseal. The forth fan I placed at the top of my helmet sucking air up and then blowing down the back of the my helmet and out. This cooling system works so well that when I get dressed I start sweating, then I put the helmet on and I cool right off. It has a perfect air balance. I also installed a memorex wireless mic in my helmet. The transmitter I velcroed at the very top of my helmet. I went on my first troop with my new helmet (A fanboys showing event that i help set-up). DISASTER STRUCK and her name was MALLORY! As I was walking out the door of the changing room, my 8 year old daughter opened the door on me. My new helmet, with my head inside, slammed into the door. I took such a hard hit that I cut my forehead inside my helmet. I had a nice trickle of blood running down my face. It looked cool. The helmet did not. The door left a green scrape at the brow and traveled 2" up the dome. The scrap was about 1/2" wide. A lesser helmet would have cracked. But Kev's helmets are built thick and tough. The only damage was to the paint. I decided to refinish the helmet...Again. In part because of the scrape and in part because the poly acrylic finish left a yellowish tint that I just could not live with. So I went through the re-finishing process again. This time I used a clear gloss paint for a protective coating. It turned out beautifully. I took pictures because I know it will never look as good again. Lessons learned: Pack helmets with lots of bubble wrap when you ship them. Don't allow your kids near dressing rooms. Don't use poly acrylic for a protective coat. Hard hat liners are good. My wife has a steadier hand than I do with a paint brush.

Sorry about the delayed response. I did not have the email notification set-up. I posted the for sale thread on the FISD. Here is the thread. ----------

I have four of these fans wired in my helmet. They are quiet and really blow well. ------------- I have wired up systems for two other troopers. I put two at the frown, one at the chin, and one at the top. Basically, two fans suck air in and two fans blow air out. Works so well that i put my helmet on to cool off...

timmer, let me know if you want some help with some helmet cooling systems. I have been putting together some for a few troopers. They are not cheap because the material costs add up quickly. I have a four fan system that rocks. I live in Texas and I put my helmet on too cool off sometimes. I use squirrel fans that blow perpindicular to the intake. It is all about getting the right airflow into the helmet and out. I have been thinking about building these cooling systems for people but I have too many projects going on. Email me if you want help and I will send you some details and pictures of my system. Jim, TK6294 familyjim72@yahoo.com

Thank you for the info Timmer! I am selling the memorex wireless headsets that Timmer mentioned. See the 501st posting link below. ----------- I have a SEA small talk amp on order so I can try it out. I have a couple projects to try it with including my wireless system in my armor. If the wiring is simple and it works well then I will buy a few of them.

Being an Engineer I LOVE mythbusters. I have been telling my wife that I bet those guys have costumes. I can't wait to show her the pictures! It would be way cool if they did a entire Star Wars Mythbusters complete with 501st support. Would bring record ratings and great exposure for the Legion! However, I doubt LFL would like all of their myths debunked! They probably would not allow it...

Note, I reduced the price from $30 to $25 because my supplier gave me a volume discount on the 20 unit order I have on it's way so I am passing this new price on to you all. I raised the US shipping cost from $5 to $7 because I am averaging about $7.50 to ship for the first 11 I sent out. I also have international rates for shipping. ---------

Aaron, I am finishing a new helmet (white not pink) and I am going to use poly acrylic gloss spray by miniwax. I have used it on other white items (binders, amp, comlink) and it works great. No yellowing either. The poly acrylic really protects the finish from scraps and nicks. I have used it for years on my boys pinewood derby cars. They always had the best paint job and the never lost except to each other. Btw, I have one of your neck seals and I love it!

Great thread! I am fitting some used armor to my nephew and ran into the same problem. Only, I need to break apart 2 part epoxy (loctite). Any tips on removing epoxy? I like the upolstery thread idea but need to know where to get it....

If you are interested in a Wireless Headset Microphone to eliminate the cord between you helmet and your armor, then view this posting... ---------

I have new tk helmet and it is nearly ready to go. It is all painted and looking perfect. I want to finish it by adding a sealant to protect the finish. Does anyone have any reccomendations that can be puchased from depot or lowes? I have used minwax poly eurothane on other white finishes and it leaves a yellow tint that would be unacceptable on a helmet. Would miniwax poly acrylic work? Any other tips on what to use?