troopermaster

The screen used belts do have the straps glued to stop them moving.

To prevent your drox boxes moving, you should glue the drop box elastic to your canvas belt Make sure the elastic is between your snap and end rivet as mentioned.

Loving the weathering. Fantastisch

I would go with the orange line. I think it is better to split the difference with the overlap. For your wrist question, I would wait until you are fully suited up before you trim anything off the length of your forearm or off the length of anything else for that matter. Things might feel better when you have everything strapped together instead of just test fitting them loose. If you feel the forearm is too long when it is strapped then by all means trim away the wrist. You can either trim the inner half in an arch or the whole wrist at an angle so the outer half still looks the same but the inner half is shorter.

Looking good, Andy Trim as you much as you need to. This is your armour so make it fit you! The real armour is very slim fitting so trim it as much as you need. I could not get my arm in Simons original armour when I tried it on. When you attach the strapping between the bicep and forearm, try and leave a 1" gap from the inner curve of the forearm and the bottom edge of the bicep. You just want the strap to act as a hinge when you bend your arms and having it short reduces pinching. Do not worry if you end up with a big gap at your wrist. This is quite normal and only visable when you arms are down, and since you are always armed with your blaster this is not a problem Keep up the good work. This is a very clean, methodical build!

It's not a TM. I'd guess MTK or ATA?

They are not the same make though.

I have to disagree. Marco and FX are very similar. I will agree that FX is a recast of GF but GF is a recast of Marco (albeit changed slightly).

I think the original creator was Marco. I don't think GF actually sculpted the FX since it is far too close to Marco's original. http://www.starwarshelmets.com/imperialfanMarco.htm

Superb

Nice one, Dan

Here is the 'O' ------------ *EDIT* Here is a closer version http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/397639980/SELL-High-strength-Castellated-Shaft-Lock-Nut-nylon-lock-nut-locking-nut-hex-locknut-castle-nut.jpg_120x120.jpg

Hi Juan, Good to hear you will be back on with this project soon. Looking forward to seeing your progress on this build and hope you don't keep us waiting too long J/K. Take your time mate and have fun with everything.

Nice blaster, Frank. It looks far too glossy to me though. Real Military weapons have a subdued matte finish and I think blasters look good like this too

Reducing the length of your inner shoulder straps will help with the back plate overlapping your kidney plate. The butt plate issue is most likely caused by your cod strap being too tight. Lenghtening the strap and keeping it loose will stop the butt plate ends poking upwards like in your photos. Reduce the distance between your biceps and forearms as already mentioned. Have them touching each other when you arms are straight down and do not worry if you have a gap between your wrist and hand. This will disappear once your are armed with your blaster. The less gap you have at your elbow greatly reduces the chance of pinching. All the other minor things have been pointed out. Armour looks great

Looks awesome on you, Ed. A big thumbs up back at you

That's right. I used a brush to apply the paint but it can also be airbrushed according to the instructions on the bottle.

I bought the 118ml bottle and I have enough left to paint my other two pairs of boots easily. All I did was wipe the boots with a clean cloth to remove any dust and painted them. I don't think it is necessary to remove the glaze on the boots and I have never done that with any of the boots I have painted over the years.

April Fools

I used Angelus Leather paint. I have five coats on at the moment and I think I will put a few more on to see if it makes a difference. You have to paint it on in thin layers so a few more won't hurt.

It's been a while since I visited this thread and I thought I would update it with some photos of my newly painted original boots. This is 1 of 3 pairs I own and I will be painting the others shortly. Enjoy

Top notch as usual. Keep up the good work, Dan

Thanks for sharing these photos, Derek Always nice to see old photos emerge from back in the day. That is not a hero helmet, it is a stunt. In fact, I believe that is Simons suit from RS Prop Masters before he aquired it. All the tell tale signs are there that are unique to this particular armour. There is a thread on The Prop Den that goes into more details and has a photo similar (or same) as the one above. Interesting to see the left shin is unpainted along with the belt. Any chance you could post a higher resolution image so I can check to see a few things or is this the best you have?

I like to screw the helmet together before commiting to rivets. That way you can make any changes to look of your helmet without having to drill rivets out. Any gaps you have at the side tubes will be covered by the ear caps, that is their purpose. And you do not have to line up the eyes with the traps and the gap above the eyes and brow does not have to be uniform. I would drill out the right hand side rivet and push the face up into the dome a bit more. You can cut the forehead away to lift the brow and get the look you like after the face is in position. You do not have to follow the brow line on the mould since it is only a guide. Hope that helps

You should be able to do the same thing in your RS. I am going to suit up and get a couple of photos sitting down to show how easy it is.