Sonnenschein

A version for the pipe templates would be nice, too. Or do they match? That would be cool if someone finally offered them!

Nice work so far! But boy, those AM hand gaurds a HUGE! (I know, I've said this before. Consider this a shameless plug for my hand guards)

I think if someone made them for sale, it would be a huge hit. I, for myself, can't do ANY metal work at all. I don't ever the knowledge, nor the tools. Edit: And I'd need one too

..and that is highly appreciated. Thanks, Rick!

Agreed. But everybody trims their boxes differntly. I'll think of something. But I must point out that Kev's boxes are awesome. I have a set myself.

I hoped you'd agree. Makes sculpting a lot easier. And I'd rather make the bib a complete circle. Then, when you shred it, it will follow the contours of your body.

Not really. You have to account for the thickness of the material first.

Axctually, you really could make them yourself out of sheet stryrene/ABS. Should only take a couple of mins. If I find the time, I'll write up a tutorial to make some quick and easy styrene boxes. If you make them yourself, they'll fit perfectly.

I totally agree. When I signed up 3 years ago, I only wanted to buy a helmet LOL And there's still much to learn, to find out, to discover almost every day...

Thanks for the tips Vern, but I will use black latex use for clothings and stuff, and polish it with special latex polish oh, and discard my current mold, and build a new one. Before I do, there is still a question remaining Is the neck part tapered like scuba neck seal, or should it be straight? Can't really decide. Until now, I agreed with Juan for the neck part to be straight....

I tried this with some strechy cotton fabric, but it lost some flex. That's the way it is usually done. But with the ribs, some air gets trapped. You woud have to rotate the mold constantly for about 30 mins to get a skin of about 1 mm. BUT wait a minute...how about a combination of the two? Make a thinner skin for the other surface to get the look, then reenfore it with fabric... YES THAT'S IT! THANK YOU SO MUCH! So I will make a seal for a 17" neck, which fits between 16" and 18"

Okay, the average is 17" This should fit for troopers between 16" (loose fit) til to 18" (tight, but comfy). I also have a solution for the smaller and bigger ones, but will concentrate on 17" A big thank you to every one who took their time to help out!

Thanks for your encouragement Paul - as always. You and your works are a true inspiration for me! Yes, it will be the "pull over the head type" - but without investing thousends of euros I can't make it a one-piece. I have to glue the parts together. The a special adhesive for latex and you can make the seams invivible. I studied several latex clothing sites (with some pics I'd rather wish to unsee) Like the hand guards, this will be a long development for absolut screen accuracy. My goal for the first "generation" is the accurate look outside with authentic materials - but with a not so accurate technique. Remmeber 2 years ago when painted latex hand guards were labelled "not wearer friendly"? oh just for your interest why I cant do this at home, here a the production techniques commonly used 1) Warm dipping: The heated concrete or plater mold is dipped (by a machine) several times into a container filled with latex. This could be done by hand, but for a mold of that size I'd guesstimate about 50 liters of latex in the container. Way over €1000.- 2) roto casting. expensive machines, which don't fit into my kitchen. Besides, the mold would way over 20 kilograms. Imagine turning that weight in all axes for an hour by hand. Another method I looked into was brushing the latex ONTO a mold. Really labor intensive and the results were not really satisfying. See? I tried to do my homework If one of the pro prop makers out there have another idea, please let me know! oh, Lou and Juan, thanks for your compliments!

You are right, just pull it over your head. If you wear a balaclava ubnderneath, it acts as lining and will help with the sweat. Didn't find your comment negative, Lou. There are sure other options suitable for troopin', but this would be for the accuracy nuts. Oh, they will be a lot cheaper than hand sewn ones, because there's way less work involved. I don't plan on making much money on it. This is just a "love child". I'm even thinking about "kits" where you just cut to your size and glue yourself. The glue used is the same as in a bike repair kit. Just like fixing a tire tube. Same material. Please, your commments and questions comming

yeah, it sure looks like them!

I started making my own master "ribs" out of bondo and aluminium pipe, and also some black latex "fabric" of the smooth part. Looks promising. So far I've spend about 100 $ for reasearch, materials and for trial and error, mostly for error, lol. With that pace, I'll have the first prototype ready in 3 weeks. Karin

It doesn't need to be that complicated. Just secure them with the ear screws. Small gaps are helpful with fogging. Or just use screen accurate lightening gel

Happy birthday, Tom! I hope you had a good one

Yes Vern, 25 mm or 1/2". The diameter depends on your bodily constitution.

On my android, too

You are a machine, sir! Now you only need grey rubber hanbd guards

Just order it from Mike (TK4510)

I really like the idea of cuttung up a whisk They are made out of steel wire, and cheap to find a dollar (€uro) stores..

@ John and Joey, we are talking about the brtackets for the original strapping system; Okay, kitchen whisk, bike spokes, Federstahldraht. Lots to chose from. Thanks everybody! Karin