Helotech

I'll just type it out... www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47323-helotech-sds-hero-build/page/3/

Thanks for the shout outs Mario David (yay! Another Dave in an SDS...) Lining up the knee is a bit of a pain, but doable in the SDS. My link function to my Hero build is not working while on my work computer. Just go under my ANH Hero build, TK 98695. I lined up the center of the knee so it was perfectly level, so not angled low left to right. I clamped it temporarily without gluing. I then made sure the top left and right of the knee plate ran along the top edge of the calf armour as per the pics above. It won't be perfect, but you should be able to get close. I made a very light pencil mark on the front of the calf where the bottom edge of the knee would be. I then applied E6000 glue only to the MIDDLE portion of the knee, and clamped it in place and left it for 2 to 3 days to make sure the glue was set. After the front was glued, I glued the left and right "wings" of the knee plate down, and left it for 2 or 3 days. Hope this helps, and keep up the good work.

Wow. Big progress! Let us know if you need any help and good luck! I’ll be packaging up the extra bits I have and shipping them next week.

Looks like you are off to a GREAT start! Ok, more long posts from me. Sorry.... I know we talked about it offline, but I want to make sure I emphasize that allot of the things I did are not required for Centurion. Just me, my OCD and extreme Star Wars geekiness that made me do it I only make the following suggestions to ease building. It all depends on your financial situation and how much you want to invest. Not needed at all: The clamps are good. You MAY want or need 2 to 4 more. I started off with 4 clamps, then quickly bought 4 more. It just speeds up the clamping and gluing process and minimizes wait times. I.e. Instead of only being able to work on one side of the bicep armour, clamping and gluing for 24 hours, then doin the same to other side (now a 2 day process) I could clamp and glue both sides at once. Down to one day of wait time. Sandpaper is good. I can't tell if your sandpaper is wet, butI made sure mine was wet sandpaper. This really aids in the sanding process. I started with 400 grit, and made it up to 1600 I think? If you buy a car headlight polishing kit they can go up to 3000 or 4000, and it gives you a very nice smooth finish. The kits can be pricey though I also found that sanding sponges (just google it) came in handy. I got them at a hardware store in 2 or 3 grits. They were handy to sand some bigger areas or spots that were rounded. I sent you a list of the model paints you will need. Various Trooper companies sell them on their websites, or you can go to a plastic model store. For the brushes, I used a flat brush, maybe 1/4" wide and a #6 or # 8 round brush for the details. Trooperbay does have video links on their website on how to use their stencils. When you order they send you 2 sets in case you mess up For the hardware (rivets, screws etc) some TK parts companies sell everything in ready-to-go packs with just the right amount of each item to do the job (plus 1 or 2 extra). If you go on Trooperbay and look under the Costuming Supplies / Hardware dropdown tabs, they sell kits of hardware. They even have snaps and strap combo sets ready made for $42. You can probably make them for cheaper on your own, but this is ready convenience. Even though I've done building my armor, I have to look at it to do an accurate screw and rivet count. LOL. I can let you know once I get home from work I have allot of extra helmet screen I can pass to you. I think I used a double layer of good tent repair screen. You can use spare window screen. For the strapping it is kind of hit and miss. It is hard to know until you actually make it and put the stuff on. The good thing is, you can always swap out the strapping if it doesn't work for you. Mr No stripes brackets: Screen accurate Armour fits exactly the same way every time you put on and take off (after adjusting for your body type) Can be fiddly or difficult to install due to minimal return edge on SDS May need additional strapping to make everything sit right. I had issues with my chest and ab spacing and used 3' wide velcro May need to shorten / re-sew some or all of the provided elastic straps to close gaps in the armor Snap plates and straps: When you put on and take off the armour, it goes back together the same way and in same position. Easy to replace straps when they become worn SDS provide more than enough elastic strap to repurpose it Have to either make or purchase snap plates. Making them is fairly easy. You can re-use some of the snaps ( like the crotch / cod snap plates) that you will remove for the Centurion upgrades. I can send you maybe 15 to 20 SDS snap plates I am not using in the care package Have to make or sew your own elastic or regular straps with snaps. Very easy to do, just takes time. In case you want to change things later, it is easy to remove the snap plates after gluing with E6000 Velcro system very easy to install and adjust. Armour does NOT fit the same way every time you put it on. Velcro wears down relatively quickly Hopefully this helps

Thanks!

Hey all. I'm back and ready to go for Centurion!!! I'm having issues with my photo uploads. They will follow ASAP

Armor = SDS Helmet = SDS Blaster Type = SDS E-11 EI Thread = Height = 5' 10 + Weight = 180 lbs Boots = SDS Canvas Belt = Imperial Issue Hand Plates = Silicone, Joseph Electronics = TK Products Neck seal = SDS, modified slightly Holster Maker = SDS, modified slightly

I had to email him about 3 or 4 times over a few weeks to get a response and he never got back to me. When I sent a separate email a couple weeks ago asking about the new material, he responded within a couple days, but not about when my DLT will ship. I don't want to get into the issues to much on this page. I'm just a little disappointed about the customer service and promise on his web page about orders taking 8 to 9 weeks, when the reality is more than double that (and counting...) Especially when you have to pay full amount up front.

I ordered mine in June of this year, so hopefully I will get it soon. Apparently they are using a new material called PLAX3. I wonder if this will change the quality of the printing as well? I've never had to work with 3D printed material, so this should be fun. I'm a bit OCD as well Joseph, so this will be an intense labour of love.

Thanks for the info. Out of curiosity, how long did it take for you to get your DLT delivered? I’ve been waiting a few months now.

Solid application. Congrats!

OMFG!! Really nice job. The fantastic paint job makes it look almost exactly like a real GPMG. I ordered mine a few months ago and am awaiting shipping. Apparently they are using a newer material for the printing that is more tolerant to heat. Do you have an exact list of paint brands and types you used? Are you doing any clear coats to protect the finish from rubbing off?

Congrats! Welcome to the next level. I’ll race you to Centurion

Hey, I just found your thread and will be following closely. I also purchased a DLT-19 from 3D Props as well as blaster units from TRamp. I ordered in June and am still waiting for the order. It has been of 3 1/2 months. I queried him at the 10 week mark and he said he was working on it, but no new emails have been answered. How long did it take for you to get your order?

Looking really good so far. Some possible knit-picky points: Forearm with seems a little loose on your arms by your left elbow Left side kidney / ab plate does not line up at the top. Double check your strapping On the right side close up of your side, it looks like your belt is very loose. Seems like a big gap between belt and kidney plate. Sniper plate looks really level, so good job. It does seem to be pivoted towards the inside, so it is not centered over the cover strips. Not sure if this is a huge deal The black paint on the front of the helmet has some wavy and uneven edges. I know it's hard to get the edges clean, but some work with thinner, toothpick and cotton swab can help. D-ring on E-11 may get picked up for not having the proper shape. Once again, these are picking at details. Very solid build, and good luck!

Congrats. Well done

Thanks Mario! I'm happy I have fairly minimal adjustments for Centurion (until they get pickier later LOL) Once again, those bells are the pesky part. Going camping for a week then will start messing with the ones I have, and then decide if I need to order some replacement ones.

Thanks Tony!

Thanks Dan. Thanks Luc! Hopefully won't disappoint Really looking forward to the Oct Air and Space event and finally meeting you.

Awesome Mike. Thanks for the info. I don't mind spending a few bucks on just the bells. If they don't match, no problem.

Well...that...just...sucks... I contacted ATA and he did send me pics of an untrimmed bell with measurements. Hard to determine from that if they would work. It just sucks that the bells may be the only thing holding me back from Centurion. I will try and remold my bells with hot water. I even thought of building the bells larger using ABS strips along the edging, like what is done to shim the ab and kidney armour. That process may ruin them though, so I'm hesitant to try. I know ATA matches my SDS colour pretty closely because of the thigh ammo strip, but not sure about any other manufacturers. It would look silly to have my shoulders stand out. I did a troop yesterday and the other TK there Armour was bright white compared to mine. It wan interesting to see the difference.

Thank you I'll try the straps 1st, but they are almost touching the shoulders now. The main problem with the bells is the armour was trimmed from the manufacturer (SDS). I think they did not leave enough material to wrap around my bicep armour and meet my chest and back properly. On my build thread I asked people if they could give me a wrap-around measurement of the bottom bell opening, but didn't receive any responses. See the link, about 1/2 way down. https://whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47323-helotech-sds-hero-build/page/4/ It may be a trick of the photography and / or light, but there is actually zero return edge on any of the edges. They are completely smooth.

Q, Thanks for all your help and suggestions over my build. Much appreciated. As I stated above: D#*m freaking bells!!! And I just noticed my Expert badge has appeared. YAY!!!

FREAKIN AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you so much, and thanks for the compliment on the build. This means quite a bit to me. Since the pics were taken in August I addressed all the Fit / Assembly points other troopers and you mentioned. As to the Centurion requirements, the only two hang ups will be the shoulder bells and side gap. Shoulder bells may require purchasing all new bells. The trimmed ones from SDS seem small. I’ll head back to the boiling water first for another go. Re to the side gap: I have dropped a few more pounds and that gap is getting smaller. Pretty close to complete closure. I didn’t want to shim a 1/4 “ gap as it would probably ruin the look. I originally started with elastic webbing, but switched to plain nylon webbing to reduce the gap. As I lose weight, I’ll redo the side strapping system. Congrats on your weight loss. That’s quite the accomplishment. Thanks again, and keep up the good work you do on behalf of the 501st.

Hey Mike. Small LOL on this one. The original logo was gold lettering. What you are seeing is the "ghost glue" leftover that won't come off. Also, when I took the picture I stupidly tucked in my neck seal for some reason and didn't realize the mistake until I was out of the armour. I've attached a pick of me in the undersuit top with the neck seal properly placed. Here is the link to my build thread, page 3. Scroll down a couple pics. Pic of neck seal over the logo. Please excuse the rough edges of the seal. I was in a hurry for a troop and didn't have time to finish the sewing. Please let me know if you need anything else. Thanks again.