GilFran007

Gotcha....I put strips on both the inside and outside of the shins... Allowed the e6000 to cure for three days and they were rock solid after that Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Hi Sha Sha, I'm not following? Did you reply to the right thread?

Thought I'd post an update with respect to my T-21 3D printed blaster from TK421 Propstop. I'm quite pleased with the results..... kudos to Ollie for such an awesome product.... and also helping a brother out when he glued parts upside down Here's my Jawa killer I'm planning to upgrade the sling swivel and the strap to the Enfield rifle straps in the future...... but first, to finish the armour

Sorry to hear Ferg, My transaction went smoothly. I ordered the boots on day 1 of their online store opening in March and then received them about a month later. I had the email notifications for receipt of order, processing, and shipping as well. If you've gone through PayPal and have followed all of their rules wrt a transaction dispute, it should work itself out in the end......it just sucks that you don't get your product and all the time you burn.

Don't know where else to post this....RS is having a Star Wars day sale! Picked up a helmet kit for 165 GBP shipping in!!! Better move fast.... There are only 20 available.... Well 19 at the most now......

Hi folks, even though I'm shooting for a TD, I still am striving for the white to match. I'm looking to get a second bucket but there are no AP kits. Does anyone know what armorers are close to the AP shade of white?

oh man.....why'd you have to put that on my radar..... LOL

Wow...beautiful work. Thanks for sharing.....this is my first look at the internal workings of a FOTK. Very impressive

I stand corrected. Thanks Wook. I think I got confused with the screws needed for the holster. Sorry, my bad. Glad I'm rebuilding my belt.....gonna chuck those Chicago Screws now.....lol

that bucket looks awesome so far. I've always liked the squeaky clean lines of the ROTK......what is your opinion on working with fiberglass? I've only worked with ABS and sanding is not that big of an issue......the particles are heavy and the mess is easily cleaned/vacuumed. I've seen some very nice FG kits and was wondering if a build would need to be in the garage instead of my downstairs "factory"...

I believe the ammo belt attaches to the canvas belt via Chicago screws. However, by gluing down the screw covers onto the face of the belt, these screws are pretty much permanent (unless you are using E-6000). Still, if you need access to these, you have to pry the covers off.....and risk damaging them. If you have to wash the canvas belt.....a bowl of soapy water and a sponge

Congrats! Looking forward to all the madness

wow....did they ever rivet that thigh piece to death.

everybody makes mistakes. I just glued the two barrel pieces of my T-21 blaster backwards.....it sucks, but definitely not the end of the world. I would do a search here with respect to abs paste (basically abs plastic chips, melted down via acetone, and used like a filler). fill the holes and sand the excess.....I've never done this myself but have seen posts with respect to the use of abs paste. So have a look see and good luck with the repair.

Good to see that you have embarked on this journey.....so did you go with trimmed or untrimmed? As a noob, I would recommend Mark to trim it. Once you get comfortable with cutting ABS, then perhaps you can venture off with an untrimmed kit. (as for me, I would much rather have Mark do it no matter I good I get at it ). e-6000 is your friend....give each piece a good amount of time to cure. Your pace is at the mercy of how many clamps and magnets you own....LOL

awesome tutorial! I believe at this point in time, I can give anyone a run for their money on bent, misaligned snaps......I probably bought an extra 2 bags of Tandy line 24 snaps because I've ruined so many female side snaps (the convexed ones). For those having trouble keeping the both sides of the snap mated straight, here is what I did: glued some rubber to the convex side of the base tool. This made sure that the it wouldn't slip/slide around during each whack started using a rubber ended mallet to initiate the deformation of the post (steel hammer bad....but can be effective with the male side snap as it is more forgiving) finish off the final blows with the plastic side mallet When I used a steel hammer on the female snaps, they tend to go helter-skelter and the post would flare out and seal way too quickly....usually in misalignment. Take your time with the blows from the rubber mallet; this will allow you to keep your snaps aligned as they are set into place. I'm OCD so I couldn't live with the misalignment. it was still functional, but looked pretty sketchy. Plus, I didn't want to throw down $200 for the vice tool at Tandy Leather

Your build looks great so far I was fortunate enough to fit Mark's AP kit pretty much "off the rack"......watching the builders here who have to take it up a notch with fitting, trimming, shimming, etc......

That depends on the size of your chest and how high you want the chest piece to sit.....I recommend taping everything all up before you start gluing or cutting straps. Once you are comfy with how the torso armor sits on you....take the measurements and make your straps.

Just wanted to share this while I'm waiting on the final piece for my TD build. Firstly, all the guns in the background are airsoft and not real steel. If they were, I would have my firearms license revoked for not storing them per Canadian law. Secondly, take a look at the barrel build for my T-21 blaster.....noting the position of the underside barrel clip. I've always been good with 'measuring twice and cutting once'......but this time it got away from me. I used gorilla glue crazy glue gel for the first time so there is no mulligan with this. This totally ruined my Sunday

I was pleasantly surprised with installing my split rivets .....as I was both confused, bewildered, and very anxious when I got to this part of the build. Like Wicket ascertaining the intentions of Leia and her food offering...lol.... My method was: a piece of wood under the armour to minimize scratching.....and then with needle nose pliers, start initiating the bend on the rivets as far as you can go. Then try a flathead screwdriver to push it down a little further (rolling the screwdriver over)....or a combination of pliers and screwdriver. Then, take a punch that is roughly the size of one of the legs and pound down each leg with a plastic mallet further. Once each end is down far enough....finish them both of with the plastic/rubber ended mallet until flush. The first one (on my cod piece) was a little scary at first. When I got to the kidney rivets, it was actually fun Good luck!

+1 for Soulart/GPPG.....she is a wonderful lady to deal with, not to mention her mad craft skillz

interesting that you witnessed these deformations with using too much pressure right on the metal interface..... We should definitely earmark that as 'what not to do' for builder noobs. I think I've graduated from 'noobness' and am an official 'dilatant' when it comes to armor construction...LOL Agreed with Greg.....keep up the great work. ps - our legs in armor could be doppelganger limbs in a world without faces.....lol

I've had no ill effects with e6000 on nickel plated line 24 tandy snaps. I read about the various accounts on the deformations and supposed exothermic chemical reaction and have not witnessed it with my build. I've pulled off numerous straps and see that the glue has bonded between the armour and the back of the snap, and the only deformation I saw was the inner 'snap circle' on the armour.....from when you push in and pull off the snap itself. I would just be weary with the strap plate as now the duct tape is providing adhesion surface between the strap and the armor....and the duct tape adhesion is not as strong as the e6000. You should have enough e6000 around her to hold her in.....but my OCD would keep me awake at night knowing what lies beneath.

Good question Rat, and one that I pondered when I was doing my strapping. The community can correct me if I am wrong, but I believe we are well into the area that is variable so as to accommodate troopers of different heights. This zone is adjusted to comfort so that the chest plate and ab/cod can span the height of the trooper. I do not think there are any set rules....as long as your chest plate still overlaps the ab plate and that the armor is comfortable to wear in the torso. my 2 cents

it definitely is.....but I found an easy button. Mark the spot and burn a small pilot hole in your armour with an old soldering iron......then take the drill bit in your hand and manually drill the hole. This process gave me full control on the actual penetration and made life a lot less stressful. You can even tape up the area around the hole so that you don't accidentally drop the iron and burn your armour. Once you get good at it, you can make the melted hole larger which will make the manual drilling less laborious. Now I don't mind parts of the build where you need to make holes ...except, I still used glued strapping for the male snaps on the ab piece to hang the belt.....I didn't want to fuss with trying to angle the armour correctly on the anvil to punch the snaps