Dracotrooper

oooh, your blaster is looking more fine as each day progresses Dan! I like your measure twice, cut once approach. It's unfortunate about the trigger guard mishap but you still have plenty of aluminum for a second go. I will also need to study Chris's documentation on how he successfully bend aluminum.

Hi all, I recently acquired a very interesting piece for my E-11 Blaster and excited to share! I have a replica Hengstler 400 Counter created by Tino himself. I just so happen to inquire about his counters after placing my completion set order as he had a limited run back on 2015 for conversion counters. I was delighted to hear he was about to do a limited run of complete counters and that I was first in line for one of these. As it turns out, he is not offering a run of these any longer so I have the one and only unique piece! I'm feeling pretty special about now. This replica Hengstler 400 Counter is a complete piece, fitted with an original Hengstler socket, and maintains the exact dimensions of the original counters. Tino masterfully shortens the metal housing and plastic cover to correct Hengstler size. Sorry Eagle enthusiasts, no big or small logo on this type of counter =) Without the two screws and boarder as well. Furthermore, this type of counter came with a D-shaped window for the plastic case side of the counter. The curvature is nice and I appreciate this detail. I agree with Tino that this stylized window exceeds the flat window on the original counters. The reset button for the number rolls is operational and numbers can be reset to zero with a push of this button. Number rolls are set manually by finger. Number rolls are each in black with all lettering in white, which is screen accurate. A really interesting feature that adds to the realism of the piece is the preservation of the coil; it can be seen inside the black plastic socket through the slots. The coil also adds believable weight to the counter. Adding further to the realism is Tino's added touch of including soldering and a short wire to the connector pins. I also asked Tino to age the counter and he's done a stand-up job. Tino with his fine craftsmanship, impressive indeed - I am fortunate to own this unique piece.

Ahh dude that's exactly my approach as well - so funny our approaches are similar: pursue excellence with component pieces. I think I have similar blood to your part of the world as I align myself with Tino's build approach as well lol

Nice work Dan - your blaster is really taking shape now. Not sure what stage these photos are on your build but applying CA glue to go along with the bolts may go along way to ensure the grip piece remains attached to the receiver tube. I remember Tino saying somewhere that the glue provided in his completion set is good for resin to resin contact. =), my two cents, hope you're having as much fun as we the audience!

Funny you should relay this - I too have this spare aluminum part as I opted for the upcharge to get the finished scope rail with Tino's Completion set. Good to know it measures 2mm in thickness. Warning! Aluminum gets really hot, really fast! I found out the hard way when I initially attempted to cut to various sizes, the 5mm aluminum rod provided in the kit. The trigger guard is a much larger piece of aluminum and you want straight edges too, let alone a curved surface! I am thinking commissioning a fabricator to get it done for a few bucks is the safest way to go, and it also ensures for a quality piece. Yeah, I'm without the proper tools. Perhaps a solution can be suggested here...

Let's get some traction on this together shall we? I've come across a posting by Lucas (ZeroRoom) back in 2011 with topic 'The Best Sterling Templates EVER!' I downloaded the PDF on the trigger group: The length of the trigger guard, laid out and flat is 105mm long and discussions say the width is between 11 and 13mm. Perhaps we can gauge a workable width by measuring the width of our Doopydoos 'ports' (for lack of a better word), that take in the trigger guard ends? Discussions say dimensions are not off of a British Sterling, but I gather the measurements are still suitable.

Tino, you're the man

Cool, very cool - I'm going for my personal best with aim for a screen accurate, battle worn, and realistic E-11. If I get mine confiscated, I'll be sure to let you know for kicks lol I see that the reference has multiple mod choices as well - lends to the builders skills, supplies, and tools available, making for a very versatile guide book. Will keep it close! Thanks again [emoji6]

Ah, so I made the love of the build contagious Joseph - exactly my plan! [emoji2]Thanks for the bump about the reference photos [emoji106]

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Hi all, I've made significant progress on the folding stock over the weekend. Happy to say I am well on my way to making the latch for the folding stock fully operational. I've borrowed much of the know-how from T-jay's 2nd E-11 Build on FISD. Having already hollowed out the folding stock; I proceeded to hollow out, let's call it the front end retainer, which is that part that holds the inner rod at the front end. Discovered 6" is sufficient and purchased the correct bit extender size. Used a 3/8" spade bit to make the hole. The hollow aluminum rod was drilled at the end, width wise to make way for support pins. The other end was trimmed to length to match support pins through the stock cube. Pins were cut to recommended lengths (30mm for the front and 20mm for the back) from the solid 5mm diameter aluminum rod. Front end of folding stock drilled through with 3mm drill bit then a 5mm drill bit to prepare for pin installation. There are quite a few components sourced and revised to make the latch mechanism work. A hollow styrene plastic tube at 5mm diameter was used to link the pencil to the spring coil. 30mm piece of styrene used to support spring against plastic tube. Length of components revised according to the recommended lengths and further confirmed by test fitting. Here's is a close-up of how the individual components worked together to form a functional latch. Here's the fully installed folding stock rod with functional latch components installed and pins in place. Here are some more details to come. The latch opening needs to be created and the latch itself needs to be created and installed. The 'washers' at the front end also need to be revised and installed along with the support piece that runs down the front. I had quite the ride putting this part together! Felt like I was doing open heart surgery for a bit lol I have to give a shout out to Tino for his detailed build; thank you thank you for your contributions to the forum; I would not even have dreamed of such a mod let alone do it, with out your enthusiasm and technical documentation. Three cheers for Tino! Jesse

Oh, so so insightful fellas, intrigued and following closely [emoji6]

You have major innovative talent here by sourcing ready owned material to improvise - great approach [emoji106] I'm reminded to think along these lines [emoji6]

Nice work so far on the stock [emoji2][emoji106] - find this part of the blaster quite time consuming. Steady as it goes as you work out more detail. You're farther than me on the trigger group, sure you'll hear from others soon

In the future, I have to get one of Roberts magazines too, as I am needing to store the electrical components of my build - genius idea to put in slides, I will borrow this idea!

Haha, ok - no build thread though for F-11D, forgot to put URL?

Your endeavour to scratch build an E-11 based on said parameters is an ambitious one. Love your drive and thinking out of the box, you're trail blazing here that's for sure. Only way I can see helping is providing you companies that have online ordering with international delivery, have to do some digging.

Thank you Tennant for the affirmations of a quality production. You and others are really cheering me on now. I will seek to keep the show going with little intermission

Abyss = room for electronics, maybe not in this case, for your next build [emoji38]!

Thanks! I'll keep it going [emoji106] removal was a must or they would've driven me crazy lol

Interesting to see the inner components of the magazine - getting details tight for SMG part, your blaster is getting even more real....anticipating next update

Thanks for the support! - appreciate it Mike

Paul will answer any and every question you may have about his modules, and do so in record speed. I've recently purchased one for October delivery - looking forward.

In-coming....another WIP update: Inner bolt clearing strip I went and studied the correct location of the clearing strip on the inner bold with FISD E-11 Blaster Reference as my primary source. I then etched in the location using a pencil and measured out the width of the strip along with the approximate length of the strip. The width measured 6mm and the length measured approximately 50mm. I then followed these dimensions and cut to shape on a 1mm thick plastic piece using my lexan scissors. I then proceeded to go at trimming the ends of the cut clearing strip. It was a bit tricky trying to gauge where to cut, especially when putting it against the curved inner bolt. After eye-balling it the best I could, the ends were cut and then I proceeded to shaping it. I heated the strip using my heat gun. At high setting, the 1mm thick plastic became pretty maleable, pretty quickly so I pushed it against the inner bolt over the templated part of it. I used the middle portion of my long nose pliers to push down on the strip. After some trial and error, I did manage to twist the strip to form along that part of the inner bolt. Here, I go about gluing the clearing strip to the inner bolt. I created a glue applicator using a piece of armature wire and used a piece of this kind of wire to rough up the glue-side of the strip to prepare it for adhesion. The CA of choice is E-6000. I figured using it would give me more know-how when I do use it to build my TK armor in the future. With the clearing strip glued in place, I used a clamp to keep things together for the curing process. Also, I felt I needed to use the popsicle stick method to fill the void between the outer receiver tube and the top of the clearing strip. Here is the clearing strip as it should be after gluing. I will check in 24 hours how it dried. Thank you once again for reading, cheers!! Jesse

I am speechless Corey. I have no solution for you but can only feel your pain - hope your order gets resolved soon.