Dracotrooper

Hey there Dan! Worked into the midnight hours with this mod, that is true. Yeah, I laid down the green stuff ‘skin’ pretty thick on the cap, thinking I needed to to get the ‘OFF->’ imprint good. Didn’t follow through with much sanding for fear of loosing the imprint so I left it mostly as is, yes, a thickness more than 1mm. Considering my mark 1 for the cap was 2mm thick aluminum before, I thought close enough. Actually, as I’m thinking about it now, the cap could stand to be sanded down more keeping watch to retain the text. Cool, will update soon! [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha, Emmet decided to come out for ‘things magazine’ finale! Thanks for the encouraging words - first scratch build ever, fun but also really glad it’s done. Know nothing really about things guns here in Canada; no monies to purchase anyways. Glad to have y’all eagle eyes on my work; the community here really cares, thanks a bunch for the mention! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I hadn’t thought about the cap button much. Now having looked at it longer, true that, it does sit too tall! I can hold the entire clip upside down and push it up against a 220 grit sandpaper I have [emoji106] thanks fo the quality control mate! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey thanks Wayne!

Hi all, I've been on this crazy magazine clip / housing adventure for quite some time and I am pleased to share how I've finished allot of this so to continue with the trigger group with BlastFX components that I've started already. The craziness was in high gear when attempting to scratch build the magazine clip. Although initially, had settled on using spot putty for the final surface material for the magazine clip, it proved not effective as it was susceptible for cracking over larger areas so resorted to good old green stuff. I applied green stuff 'skin' overtop the styrene / spot puttied surface and it worked out good! Dries hard and sands well! I follow through on this update with this modification along with getting the magazine latch and cap (with T-Jay's LED button) along with some magazine cap internal components like the cap bottom mechanism with compression spring as well as install of the five magnets that came T-Jay's completion set. Created styrene plastic magazine latch loosely following SMG references. I choose screws that were the style I wanted but I didn't have a smaller size on hand so I created the latch slightly bigger than how it is for real. Relative to itself, it's accurate enough for me - template cut and fitted Green stuff applied to styrene plastic magazine latch to fortify Custom magazine cap created using styrene, fortified with green stuff, aluminum sheet formed underneath with guides for attaching on to magazine clip opening. Letter punch to be applied to green stuff to capture text Template applied and button position on magazine cap placed Text captured on magazine cap - done so before green stuff fully cured - sanding to follow Magazine cap guides installed on body - bent aluminum sheet, following after Tennatlim The locking guides for the magazine cap glued into place. I would later get green stuff into the open grooves between the plastic and the aluminum on the side Created green stuff ‘skin’ for 1-1/2 Wave side of magazine clip - details cut out and pressed / molded into place with close attention to application so to capture relief Various views of custom styrene magazine clip with green stuff ‘skin’ and end cap installed Magazine cap attach brackets installed Magazine cap - under plate locking guides in place, text added. Green stuff added to hide gap on the sides. Press button on top still need install Test fit of latch and cap on Magazine Clip inside Magazine Housing Magazine latch - detail with screw, two cut to length and held together with heat shrink. Still need to place in concave shaped plate on the top Custom Magazine latch with cover installed. I turfed the idea of using screws to attach and simply used E-6000 Added button to magazine cap - T-Jay LED part has bottom lip so made hole to later be kept in place with elastic fabric. Magazine end cap with push button installed - elastic fabric installed underneath to enable push and return to original position. It would later be up against the bottom mechanism and get tension for the compression spring to enable good push tension and return on the button Carve into magazine well to install two magnets using Dremel tool and glued with quick set CA glue Magazine clip magnet housing - shallow plastic channel used with styrene plastic cover. Hole added to enable spring contact Magnet housing on underside of magazine clip - three magnets installed - the plastic on the underside just so happens to mimic the rollers of the follower much like the real SMG Magazine clip magnet housing is topped with styrene plastic sheet to provide flat surface for the bottom mechanism compression spring to magnet to and have a flat surface for it to stay upright. The plastic housing pushes against the inner walls pretty tight, more so than the force of the magnets so it is able to keep in place Magazine clip bottom mechanism with compression spring installed with magazine cap overtop. The details of this bottom mechanism was obtained from studying Tennatlim's post View of installed magnets on magazine clip and magazine housing Aerial view of custom built and/or modified components of magazine clip and housing Various views of magazine clip and housing - completed!!! Thanks for reading! Cheers and happy building!

Looking good! Keep up the great work

Great you’re able to preserve imprint details for your scope [emoji106] it’s always a nice touch to keep them for realism- kuddos. How brave you are to hollow so much, nice work! Nice test fit picture of your plastic magazine - looks like from swpropman? Will you shorten the magazine to get it to size or hollow out the magazine housing? The latter task involves thinning allot of the walls so care should be taken during hollow process. Man, you’re progressing fast on grip components - curious to see the trigger housing from shapeways installed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very interesting deep dive about paints - look forward to seeing test results, thank you for the hard work gentlemen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On my build, I've progressed from resin to aluminum sheet and styrene plastic - it's been allot of fun working with these materials and interplaying them with the appropriate contact adhesives. I've learned a ton myself and relate completely. Well Bob, look forward to seeing your WIP! Judging by your first attempt, your second will likely be the envy of many! cheers!

That's right - we want to see those surgeon hands at the optimal, we know what you can accomplish! Your green line is spot on with the four corners from those components of the magazine clip nearly against the magazine well opening, Good forward thinking on your approach here so not to make things to complicated and retain what you already have, nice!

Nice upgrade piece you got there Dan - Not surprised one bit you got a replacement as the doopydoos magazine clip just doesn't it serve your blaster justice. It's a nice resin replica although in need of some modification, but like you said, comes with the price point - is it a solid or hollow piece? In case readers are contemplating on fitting electronics... You've got the best dremel bit to hollow out the magazine well - will you hollow with it attached to the receiver tube? The length of your replacement piece looks much like what Gazmosis offered previously, so by my estimations, think you only have to hollow to the 'shelf' where the release button is.

I too am on the Canadian West Coast - I too looked into the hammer paints and have only, like you have, come across Rust-oleum, Tremclad Hammered (purple can right?) and that VHT Wrinkle Plus (from Lordco Auto parts). Think that's all the options available here. I checked also: Slegg Lumber, Home Hardware, Walmart, Cloverdale paint, Lowes .... same three cans. I too was impressed with Tennatlim's paint job; mind you he did it in Indonesia during the summer, where temperature is upwards of 26 degrees Celsius - Greg presents an interesting technique for us in the arctic cold! I think I will wait until Summer!

Thanks a bunch Greg - I will lean towards acrylics than, whenever possible and if spraying heavily lacquer based paints, make sure to paint with the garage door open as my workbench is in there. Thank you Mark for opening the discussion.

Oooooh, very cool. Looks like you have a wider than normal trigger guard to compensate for the skinniness of It - a very pragmatic approach, genius work!

Can someone shed light on LEA from stinky (toxic fumes) to no smell - this will be helpful for builders to know with confined spaces and people near by Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for sharing! You have a beautiful piece of rebel blasting artillery here - can you unfold the folding stock? With the amount of detail I see; I think so.

Curtains! hey, you're already taking out the beer? I guess no better way to start Hurray, everything has arrived! Let the fun begin!

Thanks a bunch Mark for the summary about paint. It is very helpful to know the interplay when layering different paint. I have always been confused about best combinations; with what you've outlined, I have the important things to keep in mind now. Great to see your blaster coming along; love that extractor / plunger part of the exposed bolt; so real!!!! Looking forward to your next post.

Wow, terrific work on the power cylinders already - they're looking great! You have an intriguing resin blaster Paul - can you shed some more light on this resin blaster, R & D? Curious to know a little more about them, cheers.

Congratulations on reaching the finish line! Amazing job you've done here Wayne

Your build keeps serving up eye candy; jaw dropping craftsmanship once again Mark. I like how you go about sourcing materials you have left over; I wouldn't think to use plexi-glass for the exposed bolt next to the charging handle as I've seen it done only with MDF. Great execution and with the grey primer, piece looking pristine as usual. Totally, as for your clearing strip and 'thingy' (extractor and plunger I believe), relative accuracy will do just fine especially so, with the serial number in place - that's a whole lot of detail that will be the envy of many! haha, thanks for the documenting, having gotten some inspiration, I may very well circle back and upgrade my 'thingy' - cheers!

Coming along nicely Wayne - the counter numbers look 3D, adding realism to your blaster, wooh hoo!

Oh yeah, I hear ya. I did some research on the popular product Bondo here in North America, and you absolutely cannot do that in doors. Car surfacers stink world-wide! I explored spot putty but the thing is, that's exactly what it is best for, evening out divot spots on a surface. I need to resurface my scratch-build magazine. Glad you chose the right product Yup! That's how I've been approaching my build; breaking down tasks to smaller ones and celebrating wins - it's immensely satisfying, have fun!

Nice work on filling up the scope; hopefully the car surfacer you used didn’t give off too much unwanted fumes during application. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Impressive amount of effort on your folding stock here; it will add unparalleled realism to your blaster - looking top notch Mark. I look forward to seeing your completed blaster [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk