sskunky

THANKS GUYS! If you get the whole armour you will have the only ROTJ in Australia!

I'm getting problems too.....

Great stuff!

Looks great. If you need any reference shots I have a real sterling E11.

just shave a few mm's off your BF arms!!!

Nice, but I believe they should be brass? I might be wrong ?

Looks great John, Glad the mic tips worked for ya! I have some flower rivets if you need them.....

I use Absol on ABS and Hipsol on HIPs or Liquid solvent cement works on both. It's clean and providing you use it correctly via capillary action. you will not find a better bond. They get my vote but seeing as I don't have permission to vote for some unknown reason I won't!

The reason it took so long was mainly down to us not getting ourselves in gear. We needed to get all the history together and photo's then Jez had a problem with the server codes etc....

:dancing-trooper: Wooohooo!!!

Thanks everyone. I was really excited to see it up on a site I have used for so many years. Jez has done us proud.

Hi guys and gals, Just thought I would share my excitement of CFO ROTJ armour featured on starwarshelmets.com...... Enjoy. http://www.starwarshelmets.com/CfO_Armor_Helmet.htm

Cheers Sam. I nearly bought a RO72 a while ago just for the sight. But couldn't justify the cost at the time..... I heard the hammers were plastic, I hadn't realised the RO72 sight was plastic too....

So would anyone have any 3D drawings of the greeblies? I'll try and get some pics up when I get home tonight. Thanks everyone that has chimed in so far. @Vern, that sight is great. I've stumbled on it before. But I didn't realise they made metal parts from files.

Thanks everyone. I am now building a ROTJ version using a real MGC Sterling. If anyone can help me with metal greeblies I'm all ears.... :duim

Hi Guys and Gals, I have just recently acquired a real MGC Sterling for my real ROTJ E11 project. Some of you may have seen my real Sterling ANH E11. Anyhoo on to the topic of greeblies. I have searched high and low but to no avail. I am looking for metal scope rail and greeblies for this awesome build project. I know there are resin greeblies out there but as these will be going on a real MGC Sterling I want the real deal metal bits to go on it. If anyone can help or make these I would love to here from you. cheers......

Just a clue, the ANH were first so are made of PP, HDPE or something similar and painted White. All the details, like the traps, tears, frown and vocoders were hand painted. ESB were rehashed ANH helmets and some new ABS and had decals in the tears and traps and had black pointed frowns. Both ANH and ESB had green flat lenses apart from the ABS closeup hero helmets that had bubble lenses. ROTJ are Recast helmets and are more squashed, warped and considered the ugly cousin. Although I have grown to love them as just different. They nearly all had bubble lenses although some had flat green. The decals were screen printed vinyl and the frowns were black and had either square or rounded ends. Made of pinsea/haircelll ABS. Inside they had helmet liners wereas ANH and ESB had star shaped foam. The ears were screwed on with 3 brass screws on the stunt helmets on ANH and ESB. The Heros had 2 screws. In ROTJ they were glued on. There are other differences but those are the obvious. Hope this helps.

Well, I also have a bag of flower head rivets. So as both were used, make your choice. Pauls plain heads or my flower heads. That sounds a bit strange when I read it back!!!

Nice find Paul. What size head did you go for in the end? 8mm?

are they the same as mine?

The head size is 7mm and the overall length is 12mm. the split tabs are also 7mm. I think they are a little small but they are about as good as I can find and the place I got these say that's as big as they can get.

These are the ones I have..... Sorry for the crappy phone pics...

I have a load of flower daisy rivets. I could sell you a few if you like?

Why such urgency? Have we upset you? Sorry to see you go.

I use liquid solvent cement, Hipsol on HIPS and Absol on ABS. Which are all very similar to Plastic Weld. I only used E6000 on the shoulder straps. The Plastic weld will give you a stronger bond, Much cleaner to work with and if you work slowly there is little chance you can go wrong. After all you are only bonding two seams together or a strip along two seams. If you clamp and use magnets the two pieces that need bonding, make sure they are in the correct place then dip a small paint brush into the plastic weld and touch the seam/join with a drop of the cement and the capillary action will make the liquid run along the seam. Leave it clamped for at least 15-20 mins and you are done. It's much quicker than E6000 as that takes about 24 hours to cure. I can pretty much glue a suit together in an evening. Using E6000 will take a week or so....... Hope this helps.....